BONDO topics [merged]

jaybone9

Active Hunter
I used way too much bondo on my seams on my jet pack, is there anything that removes bondo or do i just need to do a bunch of sanding?
 
E

Ego

Guest
There's no such thing as too much bondo! hahaha

I'd just sand away. Get some rough sandpaper, and it will come off like a dream . . it really shouldn't take too much extra time at all to get rid of it.

Jer
 
Last edited by a moderator:

Megalomaniac Mando

Active Hunter
If it's an obscenely huge amount, I would suggest a small rasp or even a sure-form system. Your local hardware store flunkie can direct you to and explain a sure-form.

**Edit** I'll add that a sure-form is basically a frame-type contraption with interchangeable/removeable perforated rasp blade attachments.
 
Last edited by a moderator:

fettcicle

Well-Known Hunter
The bondo basically bonds with the plastic, any attempts to remove it with a solvent would probably melt the plastic. Start off with a rough grit sandpaper, then as you get off about 80% of what you want to remove, slowly reduce the grit until you have it sanded to your liking.
 
Last edited by a moderator:

DarthVader1

Well-Known Hunter
I've heard before somewhere in the forum that you could cover the gaps around the Jet Pack closure backing panel and the main body. I've been looking for this BONDO PAPER, that I can't find at Walmart or the local Lowes . Like I said before, the town I live at is the most crappy I'v ever seen...everytime I'm looking for something for my Fett costuming, I can't find it anywhere.
Now, this is my last step to finish my GA Jet Pack, but I can't just rely on the Bondo Glazing Putty to do that, it tends to crack in some areas. Any ideas or suggestions?

Robert
 
Last edited by a moderator:

bigkidbiggertoys

Well-Known Hunter
Why not try using paintable acrylic latex caulking? You can fill large gaps & smooth it to a nice finish with a wet finger. Once it is painted & weathered it will be hard to see it & it remains flexible. I used this for a pair of slip on gauntlets & it worked great!
 
Last edited by a moderator:

DarthVader1

Well-Known Hunter
I'd never thought of that before!!! I worked with acrylic caulking two months ago in the bathroom, and it's true. It's easy removable with water from your fingers while it's new, but waterproof once it dries up. You could even shape it with your own fingers without the need of a spatula, paint scraper or knife. Besides, is NON TOXIC, so you won't run the chance to get "HIGH" while working with it. :lol:

Thanks BKBT for the idea...awesome one too! :)(y)

Robert
 
Last edited by a moderator:

Blastech

Active Hunter
Bondo

What type of bondo is generally used for big projects and how much is it? For years I've used the red spot filler in the tube, but my older stuff has begun chipping away and the red shows through. Is there like a tub of real bondo you use?
 

fettcicle

Well-Known Hunter
There is a quart can and a gallon can, the quart can will last you a pretty long time, but then you need the red hardener in the tube, the can comes with a tube of dark red hardener, but you usually need to buy another. You mix the two together to make a pink color paste that you spread over the cracks, pits, or the things ya need to fill. The darker the paste, the faster it cures ... but if its too dark, it just gets brittel. some people even reinforce large cracks with fiberglass cloth.
 
Last edited by a moderator:

DarthVader1

Well-Known Hunter
Re: BONDO "paper"???[merged]

mmmm...Fiberglass cloth...mmmmm....thinking....mmmm....plus bondo.....mmmmm :rolleyes

Robert
 

DarthVader1

Well-Known Hunter
Well, my JP is a GA Fiberglass Jet Pack, and I just bought a bag of Fiberglass cloth and a quart of Fiberglass resin. I'm about to conclude with this thing pretty soon.

Any recommendations from anyone who works or had worked with this kind of materials before I start with it? :confused

Robert
 

Ruffkintoy

Active Hunter
Wear gloves, add the right amount of catalyst and work quickly before it kicks. Adequate ventilation too
 
Top