Vest Pattern

[MaulMaus]

For those of you looking for a vest pattern - I've found one that works well, with a few minor alterations! I've just finished a muslin prototype and it turned out great ... ( except for the mistakes I made! )

It's a vest pattern made for leather (not fabric) and has a front zipper. The pattern has all sizes printed on the paper, so it's easy to adjust and alter for your shape/size. There is a separate lining pattern as well.

As for the adjustments: The pattern has to be lengthened about 2 to 3 inches (no big deal), the front collar has to be brought up and you have to make your own shoulder flap pattern piece (also no big deal). And remember to sew the lining to the leather on the sides - and not to each other!

http://www.montanaleather.com/p2225.htm

Best of all ... it's on sale right now!

 

[Zam I Am]

Just make sure you lengthen the vest so that it reaches the cumberbun. The pattern is a good start also, make sure you have 3/8 in seam allowances for the leather especially around the the sides where you need to lace up the 9 holes.

 

[MaulMaus]

Yep! Did that!

The pattern calls for 1/2" seam allowances on the leather, and gluing it down.

BTW... how far in from the edge, and how far apart are the eyelet holes? I measured 3/4" apart on the standee... is that about right? Seemed a bit too much on my prototype.

 

[MonCal]

I am not sure if this of any major concern and I should've mentioned it a long time ago but...

Kathy made her gloves and prepared the lambskin for the vest and cummerbund a while back. She did a little research and talked to a lady who makes leather pants and other various leather garments. She gave us some info to prep the leather to keep it from stretching once you start sewing and wearing it:

* Wash the leather in the washing machine on cold with Fels-naptha laundry bar soap. You will need to use a cheese grater to grind the soap and mix it in a bowl of hot water then put it in the washer. I found it at King soopers in the laundry soap section. It is supposed to help clean the oils off, prepping for dyes and also just to clean it. Then take the leather straight out of the washer and stretch / staple it to a piece of plywood and let it dry stretched. Again, this well help keep the vest from stretching during sewing and when you start wearing it.....since there is a bunch of stuff hanging on it
It seemed to really help with making the gloves.

 

[MaulMaus]

Hmm... I'm kinda scared to put it into the washing machine! I don't want to ruin it - as it cost so dang much money!

Does it really make a difference? I noticed the lambskin was very stretchy in one direction - but figured that was just the nature of the leather.

How much of that fels-naptha soap do you use... say for 1 skin? A whole bar? ( I might throw in some scraps and see how it turns out, before I put in a whole skin! )

Sounds like you're making progress in any case! Any pics yet?

 

[Zam I Am]

MaulMaus wrote:
Yep! Did that!

The pattern calls for 1/2" seam allowances on the leather, and gluing it down.

BTW... how far in from the edge, and how far apart are the eyelet holes? I measured 3/4" apart on the standee... is that about right? Seemed a bit too much on my prototype.

Just go with what the stand up has, cause it varies from person to person and how tall you are and long your body is.

 

[MonCal]

Yeah we've made progress. I just haven't got around to posting any pics yet It's just been so discouraging with the bodysuit situation :facepalm ... hard to keep the motivation with that going on. Plus I've been working on other stuff.

We put about 3 tablespoons of the grated soap into a bowl of hot water to mix it and then put it in the washer on warm wash/cold rinse, gentle cycle. Then just lay it out flat on a piece of plywood and staple it down and let dry. You don't have to stretch it too far but it will stretch about an inch or so.


It doesn't hurt the lambskin. It seemed to really help while she was sewing the gloves.... which are not easy to sew
Again, I'm no expert but this is something we learned and ultimately I wanted to do a full on test before telling everyone here however, I haven't made that much progress.

 

[Zam I Am]

Call the seamstress dudes.. and while your on the phone with her ask her stuff, see if she can help you with any patterning.

 

[MaulMaus]

Mmmm... kay....

Think I'm gonna try it - first on some extra pieces - before I make the plunge!

Thanks for sharing that tip!

 

[Zam I Am]

Also, Test test test, muslin first always, don't waste your valuable leather, as it is a one shot sewing deal. Once you put holes in it, it's pretty permanent looking. BTW. found a great Site for sewing leather...
http://www.sewing.org/enthusiast/html/elf_sewleather.html

 

[MaulMaus]

Yep ... already did the muslin pattern - and I may do a second one with all the adjustments I've made off the first one. I sure don't want to buy any more leather!

Thanks for the link too!

 

[MonCal]

I know it's kinda late for most but I'm late getting started on the vest.

The pattern most of us have does not incorporate the padding in the shoulder or the extra stitch. We've come up with a way to get it close.
Here is a pic from MOM: notice the arrows.

Here is ours:

Here is how we got it to do this:

First put the eyelets in. You only want them to be in the outer layer of the vest, not through the innerfacing.

We found a rectangular shoulder pad that gives almost the exact detail as the original:

Do not sew the flap closed and to both sides of the seam in the shoulder of the vest. This is tough to explain but try to see it in the pictures. If you open the innerfacing inside the vest, you can see all the way inside the flap.

This is just holding it in place to get an idea of how it will work before stitching:

It's best to practice, pin, practice, pin before sewing. You can always rip out the stitches but it leaves holes in the leather

We did some practicing with regular fabric to adjust the pattern also.

 

[BobaBabe]

Great photos! The sleeves are similar to epullettes on Elizabethian costuming. That's what made me consider using a bodice pattern with epullettes on the vest since it looked like some side laced bodices I've used, but with the zipper instead of lacing. Well side lacing, instead of front lacing. You know what I mean.

 

[MonCal]

Hehe,

Actually no I don't have a clue what you're saying My wife is the "seamstress" in this house. I just play with clay and get high on bondo fumes

hehehehe

Great photos! The sleeves are similar to epullettes on Elizabethian costuming. That's what made me consider using a bodice pattern with epullettes on the vest since it looked like some side laced bodices I've used, but with the zipper instead of lacing. Well side lacing, instead of front lacing. You know what I mean.

 

[propsculptor]

Hehe,
I just play with clay and get high on bondo fumes

hehehehe

In a Homer Simpson Voice:
MMMmmm..Bondo...Drool!

 

[MaulMaus]

Umm... Hate to say this, but I don't think that is an extra seam line.

It looks like the light reflecting off the leather to me. On the far right edge of where the flap meets the vest, the seam is separating just a bit, causing the leather to wrinkle slightly.

 

[MonCal]

Hmmm,

well perhaps but how do you get that fold in there and separation from the shoulder pad?

 

[MaulMaus]

I haven't sewn it on leather, only on the muslin mock-up and it's been a while since I did that.... *scratches head* But the process should be the same.

It looks like you did everything the same way I did, except for that "extra seam" and the padding. The padding I would put in at the very last, velcro it in or maybe baste it to the lining - just enough to hold it in place.

In one of pics, it looks like you've got the fold already - It should be there automatically depending on where you put the ties/eyelet holes.

One thing that might help it shape better is to flatten out the seams some more. Using a wallpaper seam finisher to press down the seam or pressing with a very cool iron (and a press cloth) will make a big difference in how it looks and fits!

 

[BobaBabe]

MonCal,
An Epullette is like a small wing of fabric on a tight fitting doublette or bodice during the 1500's. Basically it's an extra "flash" of something on a vest/bodice to add to it. Basically the pieces your talking about are modified Epulettes. I thought of this the first time I saw the Zam costume, also the lacing up the sides. Check out this bodice I pulled from a place called Crimson Gypsy. The Zam Vest isn't as tight as these, but I am going to use this logic from my background in Ren Faires to make the vest.

You can see the little "wings" on the bottom of the bodice and the "wings" on the shoulders. That's all I was explain'!

 

[MonCal]

Ah yes..... I see now

Cool.

I know nothing about sewing and garment-speak