Top Coat Disaster!!!!

Jedi Bob

Well-Known Hunter
Well, I just F***ed up my helmet.

I couldn't find Testors Dull Coat to finsih off my helmet, so I bought Rustoleum Top Coat - Matte Finish.

At first it came out like tiny drops of white paint on the helmet. I figured that I was too sparse with it so I sprayed more and what I sprayed came out clear and even but a bit to shiny. I figured now I have to go forward and finish like this and worry about it later.

Well, I just went out to finish and my helmet looks like GLAZED DONUT!!!!!!!!! :angry
It is a milky finish!!!

Anyone have any ideas how I can possible remove the top coat while not completely destroying the paint job???
 
Man that SUCKS!! The ONLY suggestion I have is to LIIGHTLY sand with a 1000-1500 grit sandpaper over the whole thing 3M makes great sandpaper and is found at PepBoys or WalMart. Then buy the Testors DullKote to go over it again........ Micheals craft stores sell it....if you don't have one around you,go to the Testors website and you can get it there. A chemical strip this late in the game is out of the question as it will surely ruin the paintjob. There really aren't many options that I can think of beyond what I suggested.

Sorry to hear of the bad news :(
 
I found the Testors and bought 3 cans of it...but a few days too late unfortunatly. I am going to call Rustoleum tomorrow and ask them what would possibly remove the top coat and have minimal damage to the paint. What gets me is I was about to display my helmet on here and was sooo proud of all the work that I did (along with the many tips and helpful ideas I got from several of my buddies at ther good ol' TDH :D)
 
What a bummer:( I would recomend sanding with super fine sand paper as well. Can't really think of any other way to get it off w/out damaging the rest. Probably have to let the clear dry for a few days though, or it will just ball up on you. After sanding, you may want to gently run a buffer lightly on it & finally, spray again w/ testors dull caot to reduce shine. good luck bud:)
Damian
 
Will sanding damage the paint? I am out of it so excuse my ignorance.

I am so ticked off. I have my first appearance 9/21 (for the release) and wanted to take some hi-res shots this week. Ugghhh!!!! :cry
 
Sorry to hear your clear coat problems!!
That is the #1 reason I NEVER use any clear coats other then Testors, EVER, I'll go without the clear coat for a while if it isn't Testors.

I have seen Rustolium clears that would take and wrinkle and crack paint jobs that would make you want to cry.

If sanding the clear coat and touching up the underneith paint from any sanding damage dosn't work your only other option is a total repaint.

Lynn
 
I have seen where humidity can cause clear (not Testors)to be milky and then dissapper after several days to a week as the paint cures and dries fully.
That would be too lucky though.
Lynn
 

Jedi-Bob wrote:

Will sanding damage the paint? I am out of it so excuse my ignorance.

I am so ticked off. I have my first appearance 9/21 (for the release) and wanted to take some hi-res shots this week. Ugghhh!!!! :cry

Bob,if the sanding is light enough across the entire bucket you should only etch the clear and prepare it for another coat. If in the event of doing some minor paint damage you can touch up and the final clear will hide it completely. You'll know if you're taking paint off as it will be on the sandpaper. Go easy.......EASSSSY with it and I think you stand a chance at least,of saving all your hard work.

Good luck :D
 
It is now 3 days after I sprayed the top coat, the helmet still slightly smells from the spray, should I wait a bit more to sand?
 

Jedi-Bob wrote:

It is now 3 days after I sprayed the top coat, the helmet still slightly smells from the spray, should I wait a bit more to sand?

is it still milky looking?
i'm sorry this happened Bob - I hate paint disasters!!!
sean
 
Thanks Sean.
It is still a bit milky but only in some areas. I bought 400 and 600 grit sand paper and am going to gently and (optimistically) give it a try.
 
I'd try it now. Even if it's still a touch "uncured" sanding off the top "skin" will reveal the cured undercoat. I'm predicting success.........but then again I tend to be an optimist :D


I'll be pulling for you Bob :D
 
OK, I have been using 400 grit sand paper and a 150 grit sponge. I seem to be getting dust dots on the helmet. When I do get a clear spot after wiping with a wet paper towel, it gets a smeared look when it dries. Is this normal? I am hoping that it just needs to be cleaned at the end to rewmove the residue from the dust and water.

Anyone have any ideas?

I am off to do a little more... and continue repeating to myself, "why me!"
 
You won't get a "clear spot" since you are etching the surface,which you already know,but that is why you won't get a clear spot until you re-shoot it with clear. I'd steer away from that 150 grit sponge as it might be too coarse. Stick with the 400 + 600 that you have.......it'll take longer,but at this point you're trying to save it,not seal your fate ;)
 
Well, after all the Rustoleum nonsense, I have to say that I am impressed with the way they handled it. I did recieve personal tech assistance regarding the product and they made good with the refund without asking for a receipt!

Kudos to Rustoleum for having good business ethics! :D
 
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This is just my diagnosis on what happened. As I paint cars for a living.

The clear coat you put on is overtop of a laquer based paint, the underside doesnt dry while the top side does giving you a milky appearance, thus also giving a beading effect.

Sanspapering it off wont be an easy task, what you will need to do is sand in layers and keep letting it dry untill its completly removed.

It would almost be easier to thinner the paint completly and start over. next time making sure all the paint stays one consistant type of paint. Enamel, Laquer etc.

Did you get it fixed... I just noticed this post was a little old
 
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