Post Sarlacc Fett Helmet

[Mr Guy]

Hey folks, I figured I should share some progress over here as I work on my take of the Post Sarlacc or “Vanth” style Fett helmet. This started as a recast of the Sideshow ROTJ helmet with modified turn signals. The cast needed a lot of clean up and microbubbles filled before I could start texturing and painting. To do that, I shot a few heavy coats of primer and rubbed it in with my hands. I then wetsanded it back until it was nice and smooth.

From there, I masked off the areas that would later be smooth metal with liquid latex. Nothing fancy, I mix my own masking latex, much cheaper than buying little bottles of Maskol or whatever masking product. The texture was achieved by stippling bondo on the surface, and knocking it back lightly with 220 after it cured up.

Then I 2K clear coated and Alumalustered the helmet, followed by one more coat of 2K to seal the chrome.

The piece was masked off once again with latex and I applied some Archive X paints for the base. This is as close all I’ll ever get to doing a “Boba Fresh” I hope.. Then some weathering to tie it all together and make it look nasty.

Without further ado, here is the (almost) finished helmet. I’m still adding details here and there and need to install the visor and rangefinder of course.

 

[Mr Guy]

Some FAQ from other places I’ve posted this.

How did you do the texture? Bondo body filler thinned out with acetone and stippled on.

“Why did you put the texture under the chrome instead of over top?” Well, to be frank it’s because that’s how it was really done. If one looks closely at the real helmet, you’ll see that to be the case. There are many areas where you can see the texture under the chrome. In addition to that, putting bondo over a high gloss 2K clear coat is not a great idea as it would be very easy for it to chip off of the surface.

“What chrome paint do you use?” Alumaluster, always.

“What 2K clear?” Transtar 6571

“Will you be selling or taking any on commission?” Not at this time. It is an exhausting thing to paint, and it wouldn’t be cheap. If better castings become available in the future I may consider doing a very small amount of them.

 

[NorCalCap]

Bravo I am doing a Cobb kit for myself, and this quick tutorial is exactly the type of thing I was looking for. Could you provide pictures of the sides, top, and rear panels once your entirely completed. I’ll be trying my hand at this paint up soon.

 

[RamSkirata]

This is really interesting. your helmet is only the second post digestion pre repaint Boba I have seen.
I like the work you did on the texturing!

 

[Mr Guy]

Bravo I am doing a Cobb kit for myself, and this quick tutorial is exactly the type of thing I was looking for. Could you provide pictures of the sides, top, and rear panels once your entirely completed. I’ll be trying my hand at this paint up soon.

I would recommend pulling reference from the end of S2 Episode 1. It shows the back very well.

This is really interesting. your helmet is only the second post digestion pre repaint Boba I have seen.
I like the work you did on the texturing!

Thanks. Indeed, I imagine most folks are going the “easy” route with the repainted version. There is a lot more work involved with this. I may try another one in the future with tweaks to make it closer to the show one but honestly I’m not a photocopier, that’s never been my style.

 

[RamSkirata]

I would recommend pulling reference from the end of S2 Episode 1. It shows the back very well.


Thanks. Indeed, I imagine most folks are going the “easy” route with the repainted version. There is a lot more work involved with this. I may try another one in the future with tweaks to make it closer to the show one but honestly I’m not a photocopier, that’s never been my style.

Well...the repainted one should have all of the contours under the top layer anyway... So no cutting corners there. Only that the end result with the overpaint doesnt look near as cool as the freshly digested version.

 

[Mr Guy]

Well...the repainted one should have all of the contours under the top layer anyway... So no cutting corners there. Only that the end result with the overpaint doesnt look near as cool as the freshly digested version.

It allows you to skip the chrome and clear coating, and a second round of masking. Would certainly call that a corner cut myself. “Boba Fresh” could be done by anyone, even with a beginner skill level, in the span of a day. From primed, to textured, to finished paint. It’s not any more difficult than the one in your profile picture.

But if you have any questions on this specific look, the Post Sarlacc or “Vanth” look, please feel free to ask. That’s the point of the thread.

 

[RamSkirata]

It allows you to skip the chrome and clear coating, and a second round of masking. Would certainly call that a corner cut myself. “Boba Fresh” could be done by anyone, even with a beginner skill level, in the span of a day. From primed, to textured, to finished paint. It’s not any more difficult than the one in your profile picture.

But if you have any questions on this specific look, the Post Sarlacc or “Vanth” look, please feel free to ask. That’s the point of the thread.

Thank you! I am but a mere beginner.
At the moment, I have no specific questions as I do not currently plan on tackeling a Digested Helmet (I like that nomenclature!). Eventually, I might, as I really like the look but there is jut not enough known about the helmet itself. So for now, my interest is primarily in uncovering details of the original prop.
If you have any or more information on that one, Id love to hear it in the dedicated thread!

 

[NorCalCap]

I have a question about your masking fluid ingredients? Humbrol is pricey I wouldn’t mind trying to make own. Could you share your recipe?
Thanks

 

[Mr Guy]

I have a question about your masking fluid ingredients? Humbrol is pricey I wouldn’t mind trying to make own. Could you share your recipe?
Thanks

Sure, it is just liquid latex, (I think this one was from Reynolds Advanced Materials but it could be Monster Makers latex as well,) and blue Liquitex acrylic paint. Probably 85% latex to 15% paint, just enough to tint it. You can use any color you want of course.

 

[wyawya]

No questions, just want to say this is one of the most beautiful paint jobs I've seen in my time on this site. Absolutely incredible work. Looks more genuine than the one in the show, somehow.

 

[Mr Guy]

No questions, just want to say this is one of the most beautiful paint jobs I've seen in my time on this site. Absolutely incredible work. Looks more genuine than the one in the show, somehow.

Thank you, I appreciate the kind words very much.

 

[RamSkirata]

Any progress here?

 

[Mr Guy]

Any progress here?

Nothing of note. I got hit pretty hard by Covid and I’m still playing catch up on commission work.

I believe if I recall correctly I got the stalk and ear cap fitted, I’ve just got to install a visor. It will happen sometime in the next two years haha

 

[KingLegolas7]

I know I am late to this thread but I have a few questions pertaining to the helmet. In the thread you said you were using Bondo body filler for the texture, could Bondo all purpose putty be used to replicate a similar texturing effect and does the helmet need to be primed or can the Bondo and first layer of masking be applied directly to the helmet?

 

[Mr Guy]

I know I am late to this thread but I have a few questions pertaining to the helmet. In the thread you said you were using Bondo body filler for the texture, could Bondo all purpose putty be used to replicate a similar texturing effect and does the helmet need to be primed or can the Bondo and first layer of masking be applied directly to the helmet?

I’ve not used Bondo all purpose putty but from a quick look, it seems like it should work fine.

I would scuff the helmet scotchbrite, clean and degrease, and prime it first.

 

[DarthVader1]

Talking about the Bondo, did you use the Bondo straight from the can or did you have to use the hardener anyway?