MQ-1 Attachment?

[Jesuit24]

I'm wondering what the general consensus is for installing the MQ-1 circuitboard on the helmet? I'm guessing hot glue is one way, but it would be good to get neater alternatives.

Another question; this is my board:

Am I supposed to cut the bottom half of it off for ESB?

 

[intwenothor]

Hot glue would work fine so would epoxy putty etc.
yes, the bottom half should not be there for ESB. I used a visor offcut for the smooth bottom section

 

[Lynn TXP 0369]

I just used plumbers putty on mine and epoxied it in place. I used the scrap piece visor section from my FPH2 as mentioned in Wasted Fett's build on his site for the bottom half.

I got Shapeways dental files coming for the back to add some more detail.
Lynn.

 

[intwenothor]

I positioned mine and used a dot of superglue to keep it in place and then firmed it up with two part milliput.

I subsequently painted it yellow brown to try to match whatever was used on the real one. The visor offcut was heated to mould it to the shape of the rear of the keyslots.

 

[Jesuit24]

I'm currently having a lot of trouble with milliput. I'm using the regular stuff to attach visor clips (similar to the screen accurate ones) but it's so brittle, the nuts I'm using just shear right off when I screw in the clips (after leaving it 24 hours to cure). I covered them with JB Weld, and that held longer, but one clips already peeled away with that (after another 24 hour drying time).

Milliput's probably good enough for the MQ-1 board with no pressure applied so I'll probably go that route. But what could I use for the nuts for the visor clips?

 

[Lynn TXP 0369]

I use two ton epoxy mix in a tube for the visor clips. Plumbers putty was used for the weird offset angle I had to glue the mid clips to. What ever you do, make sure you scuff the area good with 50-60 grit sand paper for the epoxy to bite to.

Lynn

 

[intwenothor]

I'm currently having a lot of trouble with milliput. I'm using the regular stuff to attach visor clips (similar to the screen accurate ones) but it's so brittle, the nuts I'm using just shear right off when I screw in the clips (after leaving it 24 hours to cure). I covered them with JB Weld, and that held longer, but one clips already peeled away with that (after another 24 hour drying time).

Milliput's probably good enough for the MQ-1 board with no pressure applied so I'll probably go that route. But what could I use for the nuts for the visor clips?

Interesting. I used Milliput for my visor clip attachments and had no issues. I spent a long time mixing it before hand. I think the key was that I removed the visor once the fit was decent to ensure there was no pressure on the fittings during the curing time. I also did the bottom ones first and then did the upper ones at a later fitting rather than all four at once.

 

[Fett 4 Real]

Milliputty isn't brittle when cured.... FULLY. Also there is a yellow version.

 

[Jesuit24]

I kneaded it until it was all one colour and left it for 24 hours. I dunno, maybe I got a bad batch.

 

[Bobby Fett UK]

For a resin copy I use elastic. 4" across the key slots, leaving the key slot area void of super glue. Then just slide it in there. Helps keep a low profile at the rear of the helmet too.

 

[Grimstuff]

For visor clips I've had great success with JBWeld plasticbonder https://www.amazon.com/J-B-Weld-50133-Structural-Adhesive/dp/B009EU5ZNO
Scuff both the Chicago nut and the helmet surface, clean em, and then pre-apply epoxy to both and then meet them together. No need to goop it on as long as you have complete coverage on the nut.

It'll cure on super strong, I pretty much had to ruin a nut trying to pull it off with pliers after I applied one slightly too high once. My helms are polyurethene though, so might not be quite as effective for fiberglass interiors, though fiber resin is listed as a compatible material.

 

[Jesuit24]

I bought some Milliput superfine and I've had better success with it. I'm not sure if the Milliput I was using was a bad batch or old, but it's still crumbling even now. So what I've got is a JB Weld base (the regular stuff; after seeing a video review/comparison, that was the clear winner among it's competitors), the nut was then covered in JB Weld, and then Milliput superfine went over the top of that just for added safety. I'm also going to heat up the visor before I screw it in tight, just so there's less pressure on the fixings.

 

[Fett 4 Real]

I bought some Milliput superfine and I've had better success with it. I'm not sure if the Milliput I was using was a bad batch or old, but it's still crumbling even now. So what I've got is a JB Weld base (the regular stuff; after seeing a video review/comparison, that was the clear winner among it's competitors), the nut was then covered in JB Weld, and then Milliput superfine went over the top of that just for added safety. I'm also going to heat up the visor before I screw it in tight, just so there's less pressure on the fixings.

if it wasn't smooth Id say it was bad.