Loulou fett Jango build

[Loufett]

I figured I'd post my build thread from TheBHG here for those who may not be a member to see.


I grew up watching the OT non stop and always loved the stormtroopers and their armor, and when the prequels came out especially episode 2 I became obsessed with Jango and remember making cheap little costumes trying to emulate it as well as collecting the figures.I have finally decided to attack my dream build.

Parts I'm waiting on, check mark means I've received it.

-Flight suit Arkadydesigns

-Flak vest Delta Leather Works

-Boots Crow Props

-Helmet cold cast Wastedfett

-Armor DC props

-Gloves Amazon lands ends navy blue

-Westar 34 3D printed by Medio3D on Etsy replaced now with 3d printed Minute fett files

-Z-6 Jetpack I printed using Minutefetts files I purchased

-Delta leather works holsters

-Delta leather works pouch belt

-Delta leather works girth belt

 

[Loufett]

3d printed the Westar blasters using stunt blaster files from Minutefett and printed them on my new printer. I am not happy with the shine on these and will probably redo the the sanding and use rub n buff

 

[Loufett]

After getting used to 3d printing and printing armor for my season 3 Axe woves, I decided to tackle the Z-6 jetpack since the Jango Kamino scenes were my favorite and ultimately my favorite look for jango.

Getting there, just need to print the bottom halves.

 

[Loufett]

For the jetpack here are my cura settings to save some of yall time and lessen the chances of a issue during a long print It maybe alittle too much on the safe side but I like to be able to set it and forget it and not some back to a fail, I bought and used minutefett's z-6 jetpack files.

My settings printed using an Elegoo Neptune 4 plus:

Layer height: 0.2

Wall thickness: 0.84

Wall line count: 2

Infill density: 15%

Infill pattern: Grid

Support: Tree

Branch diameter: 6.0

Trunk diameter: 35 (you can go anywhere from 31-35 I just picked 35 for a sturdy base for no tree failures)

Support placement: Touching build plate

Support overhang angle: 15 ( I set it this low so it captures any possible overhang and thus less issues)

Support density: 5%

Build plate adhesion: Brim

I printed the top left and top right of the jet pack in normal orientation and I printed the Bottoms upside down so the tree supports could help support with the overhangs better.

Once the parts were printed I CA glued them together(it was before my PLA GLOOP came in) and then used a soldering iron and strands of filament to weld the section together from the inside then used PLA GLOOP over all the seams that weren't fully welded on the inside.

I gave the jetpack a quick sanding with 80 grit to knock down high spots, then used a mixture of UPOL spot putty and acetone and brushed it all over the jetpack filling in all print lines. If you use my settings the print lines won't be very bad only on the top of the jetpack area where the stabilizer and beacon go and on the bottom of the jet pack but the mixture will fill it in easily.

I then kept adding coats of this mixture it cures pretty quickly and ready to sand in about 10-15 minutes so you know the drill sand sand fill sand. I also used Bond glazing spot putty because it lays on and smooths out easier than the UPuL dolphine putty, but both have there strengths and weaknesses, but i will say for a sandable filler primer UPOL is top notch and cures within minutes and ready to sand so i stick with it.

Basically just repeated the sanding and filling process using bondo spot putty, Upol filler primer and some 230- 320 sand paper/ sponger grits. I would spray the Upol filler primer to help bring out the areas that need sanding and then I would attack those areas and spot fill them sand and then repeat the process. Below you can see the areas that need sanding and filling.

Once everything was as smooth as I could get it, I started with laying down Rustoleum gloss white 2x didnt care about masking for this part since other parts will be painted over anyways.

 

[Loufett]

Once the white had cured for a full 24 hrs I went ahead and started masking off the the parts I wanted to keep white using Frog painters tape and then spray the yellow next which I used Krylon old equipment yellow keep in mind the white is a lacquer spray paint and the yellow is a Enamel so that is also why I went that order.

The yellow will take longer to somewhat cure being that its an enamel paint so I would wait a full 24 hours to 48 and before handling and I would test to make sure its not tacky before applying painters tape.

Once I was confident that the paint was cured enough to apply painters tape, I went ahead and masked off all the areas that I didn't want Burgundy and sprayed the piano keys, and the tops/ bottoms of the side tanks . I used ACE Hardware store brand Burgundy enamel paint cause I couldn't find the Rust-oleum version near me.

If I had to redo do this I would have just ordered the Rust-oleum version cause this ACE formulation is watery and bled through on some parts and hard to get even coats, also I think its a tad bit too glossy but a nice satin or matte clear coat will cut it down.

As you can see there is some bleed through of the Burgundy, but ill do some clean up later. Next I will mask off all the areas that I don't want Royal Blue, but I will have to wait a bit since the Burgundy is enamel and still hasn't cured quite yet.

Here are is a picture of the completed missile I used a basic metallic silver paint but didn't like it so I used some rub in buff over it when it was cured and here is what it looks like.

 

[Loufett]

Sprayed the blue and unfortunately when I sprayed the satin clear over the whole thing the blue and burgundy paint reacted and started crinkling, I went off prior write ups that said to use a Krylon satin clear coat (lacquer clear) but most the paints called to use in the write up are enamel and some lacquer paints, the thing is you have to hope the enamel is cured, sometimes it isn't as obvious like lacquer paints and if you decide to use a lacquer based clear you run the risk of it possibly cause the enamel paint to react like in my case.

After I had let it sit all the rest of the day and night I taped off the yellow, white and parts of the burgundy and started sanding down the blue and burgundy and resprayed them and waited a while, I ended up picking up an Enamel satin clear coat so I wouldn't risk the same thing happening again.

Some parts of the burgundy keys and side bottle tops are a little messed up but at this point i don't care because i'm gonna weather this pack and honestly its my pack and I don't mind (also i'm tired and just wanna finish it all ready)

Here is the jet pack with some weathering and alittle added grime, still gonna do a little more but need to finish up the thrusters and hand paint the symbols on the jetpack

 

[Irongladiator]

Loufett
Your work is looking really good. I also experienced that crinkling effect too - on my helmet. I sealed mine up with Rustoleum's Matte Clear Enamel. What I recalled my issue was being too close to the helmet (not following the instructions in being 10-12 inches away from the helmet). I've used this sealer before too with no issue., And I still use it, cause it is good stuff, but now I misted it on over a few sessions and staying 10-12 inches away and not a problem since. But I feel ya - sucks when that happens. But keep up the great work.


Best,
-Iron

 

[BudaFett]

That jetpack came out great!

 

[trooperkev]

I need a jet pack...I have the arena one but need this version.

 

[Irongladiator]

trooperkev
I do believe this is what your after, yes, yes....?

Boba Maker UK Link

-Iron

 

[DrToothache]

Jetpack looks amazing Lou. Can't wait to see the final build.

Also, nice work on the blasters. Those look great for a 3-d print. I recently painted MinuteFett's lineage blasters (the resin versions) and what worked for me was painting the "barrels" gloss white and then doing a graphite rub followed by a gloss clear coat. Looks like chrome. I tried traditional spray painting first though and did not achieve anything near the shine that you did!