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toolguy301
Guest
Thanks Mike, those are my next thing to finish.
Decided to finish up painting the helmet ears, install the visor, fans, & hard hat suspension. Need to finish some final weathering yet.
Decided to finish up painting the helmet ears, install the visor, fans, & hard hat suspension. Need to finish some final weathering yet.
zeroskillz
Jr Hunter
That's looking fantastic! You make it look easy 
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toolguy301
Guest
Thank you for the kind words.
Helmet isn't done painted, kill stripes slipped my mind.
Gauntlets are finally painted.
I tried this product from Smooth On: 3D Print Coating Epoxy XTC-3D® from Smooth-On for ABS, SLA & other 3D Print Media
To coat the outside of the gauntlets to smooth out the outer surface & give it a hard shell. I have to say this is a great product & gives a smooth hard epoxy surface. Very small details would be lost using this product from what I could tell. It is thick & self leveling. After it dried I smoothed the surface using steel wool & then put a coat of primer. After the first coat of primer I did wet sand & did some spot filling, but over all very little work. The inside I used a coat of Smooth On 320 to seal the nylon & help with some rigidity.
Now the final weather will be done on all the painted pieces, washes & mists.
Helmet isn't done painted, kill stripes slipped my mind.
Gauntlets are finally painted.
I tried this product from Smooth On: 3D Print Coating Epoxy XTC-3D® from Smooth-On for ABS, SLA & other 3D Print Media
To coat the outside of the gauntlets to smooth out the outer surface & give it a hard shell. I have to say this is a great product & gives a smooth hard epoxy surface. Very small details would be lost using this product from what I could tell. It is thick & self leveling. After it dried I smoothed the surface using steel wool & then put a coat of primer. After the first coat of primer I did wet sand & did some spot filling, but over all very little work. The inside I used a coat of Smooth On 320 to seal the nylon & help with some rigidity.
Now the final weather will be done on all the painted pieces, washes & mists.
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toolguy301
Guest
Finished up the boots & have decided at this time to go without toe spikes. This is more representative of what is portrayed throughout the comic.
Finished up assembling the belts. Added the hoses & attached everything. Have a little bit of weathering to do yet.
The back of the girth belt I added 2 panels of faux suede to the front for support of the pouches & the section the grey belt goes over. These are sewed onto the girth belt.
For the holster I am going with a belt that will be hidden under the girth & grey belt. I don't have my Jodo armor quite ready to put on but was able to use my Boba cod piece & back plate to try everything on. The belt for the holster will sit just above the cod/back plate. The grey belt will pass through the strap on the holster & the girth belt will run behind it. This worked well with no sagging & felt very comfortable, which has been a concern of mine but with this set up I feel like it will work well.
The hoses are 1/4" O.D. with a piece of black insulated solid copper wire going through the center to give it a darker look & also allows for the hose to be bent & hold position. The connectors are a Watts push to connect plumbing connector.
The lone hose with the coupler will go to the rear of the left gauntlet with another coupler up near the short sleeve of the flight suit.
Finished up assembling the belts. Added the hoses & attached everything. Have a little bit of weathering to do yet.
The back of the girth belt I added 2 panels of faux suede to the front for support of the pouches & the section the grey belt goes over. These are sewed onto the girth belt.
For the holster I am going with a belt that will be hidden under the girth & grey belt. I don't have my Jodo armor quite ready to put on but was able to use my Boba cod piece & back plate to try everything on. The belt for the holster will sit just above the cod/back plate. The grey belt will pass through the strap on the holster & the girth belt will run behind it. This worked well with no sagging & felt very comfortable, which has been a concern of mine but with this set up I feel like it will work well.
The hoses are 1/4" O.D. with a piece of black insulated solid copper wire going through the center to give it a darker look & also allows for the hose to be bent & hold position. The connectors are a Watts push to connect plumbing connector.
The lone hose with the coupler will go to the rear of the left gauntlet with another coupler up near the short sleeve of the flight suit.
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toolguy301
Guest
Thanks guys for the kind words.
Finally completed Jodo Kast & suited up for photos.
I am using my ROTJ EE-3 right now but will be making a custom EE-3 that is more representative of the comic, just got some of the pieces this week.
Finally completed Jodo Kast & suited up for photos.
I am using my ROTJ EE-3 right now but will be making a custom EE-3 that is more representative of the comic, just got some of the pieces this week.
Artakha
Active Hunter
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toolguy301
Guest
Thank you guys, this is some regard was rather tough due to the poor reference & inconsistencies in the comic. This is my real world interpretation of Jodo Kast.
In the comic they didn't give any color difference for the damage only lines here & there which were inconsistent throughout. What I came up with was a meld of what was depicted plus if you look at what he goes through in the comic he had to get dirty & beat up.
In the comic they didn't give any color difference for the damage only lines here & there which were inconsistent throughout. What I came up with was a meld of what was depicted plus if you look at what he goes through in the comic he had to get dirty & beat up.
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toolguy301
Guest
Thank you for the kind words. I have gotten both 501st & Merc approval on this costume.
Well in order to complete this to my liking I have been waiting to get all the pieces to create a custom EE-3 close to what is in the comics with some creative interpretations. I got a kit from MLS as the base which is the Webley with a rifle stock instead of the "D" bracket. I decided to go about & design up the scope mounts to resemble what is in the comic & have the scope off center of the barrel. Made up a stock greeblie that is a mash up of pieces from the ESB Boba EE-3, which uses a portion of the center stock greeblie, 2/3 of a earth plug, & a portion of the connecting rod. Also designed up my interpretation of the breach greeblie disk with the connecting rod attached. These pieces were all 3D printed & the photos of how I received them from Shapeways. The bomb pieces from the ROTJ are cast from MLS that came with the Webley. The scope is a Simmons. The flash tube is a 1.5" diameter drain tube which will have slots put into it to make it more like the ESB EE-3. Photo with my ROTJ EE-3 to show comparison in size.
Paint up will be a wood grain look on the stock with the look of "Bluing" on the rest of the Webley breach & barrel. With a more metallic look on the scope rings.
Well in order to complete this to my liking I have been waiting to get all the pieces to create a custom EE-3 close to what is in the comics with some creative interpretations. I got a kit from MLS as the base which is the Webley with a rifle stock instead of the "D" bracket. I decided to go about & design up the scope mounts to resemble what is in the comic & have the scope off center of the barrel. Made up a stock greeblie that is a mash up of pieces from the ESB Boba EE-3, which uses a portion of the center stock greeblie, 2/3 of a earth plug, & a portion of the connecting rod. Also designed up my interpretation of the breach greeblie disk with the connecting rod attached. These pieces were all 3D printed & the photos of how I received them from Shapeways. The bomb pieces from the ROTJ are cast from MLS that came with the Webley. The scope is a Simmons. The flash tube is a 1.5" diameter drain tube which will have slots put into it to make it more like the ESB EE-3. Photo with my ROTJ EE-3 to show comparison in size.
Paint up will be a wood grain look on the stock with the look of "Bluing" on the rest of the Webley breach & barrel. With a more metallic look on the scope rings.
Artakha
Active Hunter
Congrats! The blaster is looking nice too.
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toolguy301
Guest
Thank you for the kind words.
Assembled & painted my custom Jodo Kast specific EE-3. This was a great kit from MLS. Very minimal clean up & filling. For assembly of the barrel to the stock I used onlty 2 screws, one through the pivot area on the breach & the other goes through the release into the breach near the hammer, which is pretty well hidden in a recess. This turned out to be very solid & secure. Was initially going to just epoxy everything together & make it solid but came up with this approach so if for some reason, which you never know, it could be taken apart fairly easy.
The paint scheme is pretty much how the ESB EE-3 was done with a few slight differences. I wanted to mimic the movie used EE-3's which is evident with the use of the various greeblies that are present on both ESB & ROTJ versions, with some modified custom pieces. This to me gives it a more real world look. The big differences are the custom scope mounts that are designed to look like the comic reference, the rifle stock, & the custom stock greeblies.
The main portion of the EE-3 was painted flat black misted with some midnight blue, brown, & metallic aluminum. Then it was dry brushed with metallic aluminum to accent the high points.
The stock was painted with a few different tones of brown to break it up then did a couple of washes of grey/yellow & black. The stock greeblies are painted flat black with a mist of red & metallic aluminum then dry brushed with metallic aluminum. The tail portion of the stock is painted a copper/aluminum mix with misting of flat black.
The flash tube is just a 1.5" chrome/brass drain tube, but opted not to add any holes to it. The inside was painted flat black & the tip was misted with flat black, flat brown, & midngith blue to give the carbon residue.
Still need to make the strap to finish this up.
Assembled & painted my custom Jodo Kast specific EE-3. This was a great kit from MLS. Very minimal clean up & filling. For assembly of the barrel to the stock I used onlty 2 screws, one through the pivot area on the breach & the other goes through the release into the breach near the hammer, which is pretty well hidden in a recess. This turned out to be very solid & secure. Was initially going to just epoxy everything together & make it solid but came up with this approach so if for some reason, which you never know, it could be taken apart fairly easy.
The paint scheme is pretty much how the ESB EE-3 was done with a few slight differences. I wanted to mimic the movie used EE-3's which is evident with the use of the various greeblies that are present on both ESB & ROTJ versions, with some modified custom pieces. This to me gives it a more real world look. The big differences are the custom scope mounts that are designed to look like the comic reference, the rifle stock, & the custom stock greeblies.
The main portion of the EE-3 was painted flat black misted with some midnight blue, brown, & metallic aluminum. Then it was dry brushed with metallic aluminum to accent the high points.
The stock was painted with a few different tones of brown to break it up then did a couple of washes of grey/yellow & black. The stock greeblies are painted flat black with a mist of red & metallic aluminum then dry brushed with metallic aluminum. The tail portion of the stock is painted a copper/aluminum mix with misting of flat black.
The flash tube is just a 1.5" chrome/brass drain tube, but opted not to add any holes to it. The inside was painted flat black & the tip was misted with flat black, flat brown, & midngith blue to give the carbon residue.
Still need to make the strap to finish this up.
boydell
New Hunter
I am looking close and I am not sure how the hinges on the gauntlets work. Are you using them as hinges, or just a way to keep the two parts together?
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toolguy301
Guest
They kinda work like a hinge but hidden. I used a small enough pin to go through them that allows for them to open enough to get my arms through. I would do this a little different by actually doing a bypass style hinge that move the pivoting side outward & past the fixed side.
I almost scrapped this idea but was able to make it work & I really like how it works. The gauntlets are secure & are supported through the lengths on both sides helping support each other.
I almost scrapped this idea but was able to make it work & I really like how it works. The gauntlets are secure & are supported through the lengths on both sides helping support each other.
