Fett 4 Real
Sr Hunter
yeh, Ive actually done the same thing because the color listings for cans is very out dated
jayvee's empire wip jinto lid paint up..
- Thread starter Jayvee
- Start date
Jayvee
Active Hunter
okeey-dokey fett lovers! just my next little update for this empire paintup on Jinto's ridiculously rad lid.. here iv'e done the mandibles and upper cheeks and a little more weathering including white paint splotches etc. still have rangefinder, visor, borden, touchups and interior to add, but about 85% done at the moment. Im really happy with the results for my first paint attempt so far, so hope you'll be kind...
One thing I will note, is that the red looks spot on to me in person, but as we all know red isnt the favorite colour for cameras, it may appear a little washed out in the photos. dont stress, I can assure you in person its how I wanted it. on the red though, I did opt for a little redder than some, as I really liked the colour of terminal fettlers 'one last wafer thin...' version - this to me is what I tried to emulate, as I personally feel some go a little too burgundy, and from the aosw pics, I feel its a little more red. the Aosw lid was what I decided to go for with the extra weathering and scratches, rather than just straight up ESB, as even though im doing an empire suit, if I decide to do a Special Edition down the track, it just gives me both options. Lastly, the helmet in person actually has more of the flare that is evident in the real bucket - my camera just seems to narrow that out a fraction more than in person.
just for my own documenting and for anyone else interested, the colours used for the mandibles were : Ironlak Chrome, Ironlak Melbourne grey (medium grey), Ironlak Venom (a great shade of purple), and an auto paint Red from power paints caled Rio/Rogue red. this was weathered with tamiya weathering kits and also had some white/super light grey accents added. Upper cheeks were Ironlak Chrome, Ironlak Lazy Grey (dark grey) and Ironlak rourke Black. silver scratches, weathering and cheap white acrylic was added for scuffing and splotches etc. enjoy guys, not finished, but hope its coming out ok..
One thing I will note, is that the red looks spot on to me in person, but as we all know red isnt the favorite colour for cameras, it may appear a little washed out in the photos. dont stress, I can assure you in person its how I wanted it. on the red though, I did opt for a little redder than some, as I really liked the colour of terminal fettlers 'one last wafer thin...' version - this to me is what I tried to emulate, as I personally feel some go a little too burgundy, and from the aosw pics, I feel its a little more red. the Aosw lid was what I decided to go for with the extra weathering and scratches, rather than just straight up ESB, as even though im doing an empire suit, if I decide to do a Special Edition down the track, it just gives me both options. Lastly, the helmet in person actually has more of the flare that is evident in the real bucket - my camera just seems to narrow that out a fraction more than in person.
just for my own documenting and for anyone else interested, the colours used for the mandibles were : Ironlak Chrome, Ironlak Melbourne grey (medium grey), Ironlak Venom (a great shade of purple), and an auto paint Red from power paints caled Rio/Rogue red. this was weathered with tamiya weathering kits and also had some white/super light grey accents added. Upper cheeks were Ironlak Chrome, Ironlak Lazy Grey (dark grey) and Ironlak rourke Black. silver scratches, weathering and cheap white acrylic was added for scuffing and splotches etc. enjoy guys, not finished, but hope its coming out ok..
Jayvee
Active Hunter
thanx for the kind words fellas - ive learnt alot in the painting process of my first lid, but overall, really happy for my first go. all the main colours and details have been laid down, but hope the last little additions i.e. weathering, rangefinder, visor etc, will add the finishing touches. thanks for looking, peace 
Jayvee
Active Hunter
A minor update incase anyone is interested, and also for my own documenting as always. I posted these same pics on jinto's helmet showoff thread - Thought I may as well update my own thread with them too. Just has a few more details added in from the last progress pics. Borden attached, the proper visor is in there, the orangy rust/substance stains on the back have been added, and some more overall weathering. Had an issue with my rangefinder stalk, so just waiting for a new one, then that will be added, and some interior and decal work to finish up, so about 90% done. let me know how im'm getting on Thanks for looking peeps, will have full resolution shots of the completed helmet soon. Peace
Thanks for looking peeps, will have full resolution shots of the completed helmet soon. Peace Hay mate it really looks great, the second pic is the money shot .
It came out very well, the colours all look very good, and the visor really brings the hole look together ,
any Aussie Fetts should take a note on the paint brands and colours Jayvee used,from spray cans they are as good as you can get
Ive had a stalk mold issue , but Ive come up with a way round it, and finally have the time to make it this weekend,
so Ill get it out to you asap
It came out very well, the colours all look very good, and the visor really brings the hole look together ,
any Aussie Fetts should take a note on the paint brands and colours Jayvee used,from spray cans they are as good as you can get
Ive had a stalk mold issue , but Ive come up with a way round it, and finally have the time to make it this weekend,
so Ill get it out to you asap
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Jayvee
Active Hunter
thanks for the great feedback J - yea, that second pic is my fave too, that view always is for any ESB lid i see, as you get a bit of everything with it - weathering, dent, kill stripes etc. The only two things that dissappoint me about the photos, is the red is not quite right compared to my real lid - in person, I really think I nailed the colour how I wanted it - dull red, but not as burgundy as some. Its just how I wanted it, but in the pics, the red almost looks differrent in every shot - a little bright in some, and a tad washed out in others - none of the pics quite emulate the actual lid, tho I understand red is a problem colour for standard cameras. The only other thing, is that I love looking at the helmet in person front on - It really has that flare on the cheeks, yet the minute I photograph it, my camera seems to narrow up the overall look of the lid . But not to worry, i'd rather have it look better in person than vice versa. One of my good mates is a professional photographer, so once completed, I'll do a full update on the thread, and get him to take some nice shots to help it along.
As for the stalk, much appreciated my friend, although I know it's Easter weekend, so just do it whenever suits you.
If any aussie Fett-heads (or anyone else for that matter) need any colour lists, tips etc, I did much research for this lid, and learnt lots of usefull things along the way - feel free to ask me anything you may think I can help with - while i'm not up to par with some of the talented folk on this board, i'd be more than happy to share any info I can. If you like any aspects of this lid, i'm always available if you want to drop me a line. Peace
As for the stalk, much appreciated my friend, although I know it's Easter weekend, so just do it whenever suits you.
If any aussie Fett-heads (or anyone else for that matter) need any colour lists, tips etc, I did much research for this lid, and learnt lots of usefull things along the way - feel free to ask me anything you may think I can help with - while i'm not up to par with some of the talented folk on this board, i'd be more than happy to share any info I can. If you like any aspects of this lid, i'm always available if you want to drop me a line. Peace
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Brail khan
Active Hunter
wow! this looks great brother
Looks too good. Thanks for pointing me in this direction!! In terms of this picture:
This has shown me that I will have to buy 2 shades of grey. One for under the red and one for under the green. You're spending my money mate! hahaha
Also, in that picture ^ is a good example of the weathering you have done on the ear. What wash is that? Cheers.
This has shown me that I will have to buy 2 shades of grey. One for under the red and one for under the green. You're spending my money mate! hahaha
Also, in that picture ^ is a good example of the weathering you have done on the ear. What wash is that? Cheers.
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Jayvee
Active Hunter
definately 2 shades of grey - the grey under the red on the mandibles is definately lighter. I went for lazy grey (darker) on the dome and cheeks, and melbourne grey under the red. if you think the grey on the dome is too dark, go for melbourne grey on the dome and cheeks, and battleship grey (the next ironlak grey a shade ligther than melbourne) under the red. On a side note, the grey on the back panels i used was lazy grey - this should actually be lighter, and match the shade of grey you use under the red on the mandibles.
It does indeed get costly - its why for my next paint up, I have purchased an airbrush and am using humbrol enamels. I will say, you can actually buy a single action, cheap aibrush with a can of propellant and humbrols, and it will likely actually be cheaper than the spray paints. However, if you're not that confident etc, then this list should help you on your way.
The wash I used,wasnt actually a wash, but tamiya weathering kits. they come in a pack with 3 colours, and is like a little make-up kit. you get a little applicator brush, and brush it on - if it doesnt look right, you can wipe it right off and start again. dry pastels from an art shop will also give you a similar effect. Two other really important things you will need, is a masking fluid - I personally swear by humbrol maskol, as well as testors dullcote - this will clear coat your paint, and if lightly sprayed in between certain coats, helps make sur you wont get any paint lifting. It will dull metallics such as silver, but i personally feel that adds to the look of the damage..
It does indeed get costly - its why for my next paint up, I have purchased an airbrush and am using humbrol enamels. I will say, you can actually buy a single action, cheap aibrush with a can of propellant and humbrols, and it will likely actually be cheaper than the spray paints. However, if you're not that confident etc, then this list should help you on your way.
The wash I used,wasnt actually a wash, but tamiya weathering kits. they come in a pack with 3 colours, and is like a little make-up kit. you get a little applicator brush, and brush it on - if it doesnt look right, you can wipe it right off and start again. dry pastels from an art shop will also give you a similar effect. Two other really important things you will need, is a masking fluid - I personally swear by humbrol maskol, as well as testors dullcote - this will clear coat your paint, and if lightly sprayed in between certain coats, helps make sur you wont get any paint lifting. It will dull metallics such as silver, but i personally feel that adds to the look of the damage..
I have just bought some Dullcote. between which layers on where should I apply this? Or would a once over at the end do the trick?
Jayvee
Active Hunter
Definately a once over at the end, but I also gave a very light spray after certain colours or weathering. You wont neef it over every layer, but I found it good over things like the silver, as sometimes metallics have a tendency to lift more than the norm, or even on ateas luke the killstripes or weathering of the powder burn on the dent - it just fixes it in place, without accidentlly smudging or rubbung out. Always keep your dullcote a reasonabe distace away, and light coats - it will drip if too close or applied too heavy..
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