Recent content by NegativeEleven

I haven't logged in here in a while. I actually made a mold to vac-form these as 2 halves last year. It's not super detailed, but I think I got the scale right. I have yet to finish one, cause no one has asked. There was a guy in a Facebook group last year who had pre-made electronics...

Maybe i am not explaining it right. The top is where the servo stops. Its not hitting the top edge of the helmet. Like i said, if the helmet is in a position where the rangefinder is directly up/down, meaning the weight is pushing directly down the stalk, it stays put and it's quiet. Tipping my...

The stalk is aluminum, so I would have to put a magnet inside the stalk as well. That would be tricky without breaking it.

no, it's not touching anything. It's straight up, close as I could get to the back edge. If it was trying to go further, I would know. It's silent in the straight up position, but if I tilt the helmet forward so that the rangefinder weight isn't centered above, it wants to fall and the servo is...

When you guys have your rangefinder up, is the servo constantly having to buzz to keep it up because of the weight? I got it to stop exactly at the top. If it's balanced straight up, it's fine, but if I tilt my head slightly forward, the rangefinder would fall, so the servo starts trying to put...

wish I had found this before cutting into my RS helmet to make a deep well for a circular servo arm. I still have the old ASOK ear piece i can replace it with if need to go back (he sent all 3 pieces years ago for my Sgt Fang helmet which already had top half of right ear cast). No one at any...

If you can glue snaps to it, you can glue pin backings to it.

I know some people have had good results with magnets, but they're never strong enough for me. On my first mando build I had magnets in collar and backplate to make it snap into place without anyone helping me get dressed, but I also had velcro and the magnets were held on with rivets, so there...

The right gauntlet and bottom half of the left is haircell ABS. The cod, kidney, back, chest, collar, knees and shoulders are a softer material that is very flexible, but seems to have no problem with paint adhesion. With the return edge, you'd expect cracks in the corners with the way it...

I'm curious if anyone knows what material RS Prop Masters uses to make most of their ROTJ Boba Fett. The stormtrooper they sell is offered in PVC and ABS. I don't know that I've ever seen PVC vac-formed. Is that what this is? I do a little vac-forming myself, and I know this armor isn't like...

This thread should really be pinned, although that part of the forum is getting a little crowded. I love this idea. I keep suggesting on the mercs forum that new people should consider this. I haven't tried it yet, but it's gotta be more effective than trying to figure out snap/velcro placement...

Just a warning for putting snaps on armor: put them near the edges. I have a biker scout friend who mounted snaps in the middle of his forearm and bicep armor pieces and it's a pain to get those snaps to "click" without having to awkwardly squeeze his arm or push a hand up his sleeves. I think...

I think you're gonna need those white straps a good bit longer. Whoever is dressing you is gonna be fighting to get those thru the backplate and it's gonna put a lot of pressure on the backplate against the harness. I was having lots of trouble with my harness/collar/backplate/jetpack choking me...

Yeah, those look good too. I know I won't ever get Fett to 501st standards, but I like working on him. It feels good knowing I built most of it myself, unlike my 501st costume which I simply bought and added straps to. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A

I tried that with my biker scout at DragonCon once. I put a cold pack from the cooler in my back tank, 80mm fan spinning pointing at me, with mesh in my flight suit, so it was good and chilly for an hour, but after that, the condensation on the tank had begun to dribble down leaving everything...