skaalaluke
Jr Hunter
Looks like you're doing a stellar paint job! Keep it up!
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Sent from my SM-G925V
With a little help from my friends - ROTJ SE WIP
- Thread starter DentedGent
- Start date
DentedGent
Hunter
Thank you! I have seem to hit a snag though, as my decals tend to lift and come off even after clear coat application... Anyone know how to get these decals to stick on? Is it a gloss coat underneath first? Decal bonder spray? A bit at a loss here...
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DentedGent
Hunter
Still looking for a solution to the poor decal adhesion... :/
At least it's looking good on the vest!
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At least it's looking good on the vest!
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starchild99
Hunter
Still looking for a solution to the poor decal adhesion... :/
At least it's looking good on the vest!
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Your painting is fantastic !!! The SE is my fav build...Do u do painting commissions?
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DentedGent
Hunter
Thank you! Honestly, that's very flattering considering this is my first Fett paint up. I am open to commissions, but I'm a bit focused on completing my own build right now. My experience in Fett painting is minimal, but I've been an artist all my life so I'm just trying to apply myself. I have yet to finish the jet pack or helmet so judging by how those come out I can dictate wether I have the confidence on another member's armor.
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starchild99
Hunter
I understand... but I def notice your talent as an artist your super talented, and I would totally trust u painting armor for me. Do u live in the states?
DentedGent
Hunter
I am humbled by your comments. Yes, I'm in Southern California. Did you need an SE Fett painted up?
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starchild99
Hunter
I am working on another set of armor once I get it I will def pm u...I am in ny
and yes I would want it just the way u are painting up yours...SE
toofastrobot
Active Hunter
You could sand the surface of the armor and hit it with some 3M or Bulldog adhesion promoter. I think there are some Japanese Mr. products that are decal adhesion promotion related, I'd give that a quick google as well.
RafalFett
Well-Known Hunter
The paint job looks great, but it is for the ROTJ Hero and not for the ROTJ SE. To achieve the SE look, you should use the ROTJ stencils along with images from the AoSW and C-IV exhibits. Also, the scratched green (which is too dark and green) on the abdominal plate should be the same with the ones on the chest plates, but as I said, this paint job is for the ROTJ Hero setup.
DentedGent
Hunter
Thank you for your comments, they are highly appreciated and some of the most important I've received. I suppose this will screw with my 501st cert... Talk about making THE mistake. Hah
Ugh... I think I'm going to have a smoke and lie down before I decide to bury my head in the sand. I suppose the route now is strip it down and start over? This just got a bit overwhelming... I realized the ab plate green was darker but everyone's color list has that dark green listed for the raised ab plate damage so i kept getting confused and just followed the directions even though the green looks lighter in the stencils. I am using Rotj stencils and attempting to get those SE tones by cross referencing with the SE studio shots. I realize the damage isn't "exact" since I didn't trace it but eyeballed it... So many people just saying to paint an Rotj body with an ESB head... I guess I should've looked into it more... I'm putting a tarp on this for now.
Feeling pretty defeated...
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Mullreel
Well-Known Hunter
Honestly no this would not keep you from getting approval. If you look at the CRLs you will see what I mean. There is room for difference in the approval process. You can't have ESB jet pack with a ROTJ gauntlets but some variation on paint won't kill you.
Now what we are talking about here and what Rafal is saying is that we look for near perfection and we like to call it the exact thing that it is.
Pull out the CRLs and read through them. You will feel much better. Keep working
Now what we are talking about here and what Rafal is saying is that we look for near perfection and we like to call it the exact thing that it is.
Pull out the CRLs and read through them. You will feel much better. Keep working
RafalFett
Well-Known Hunter
Don't feel that way, because you can still have a chance for a ROTJ SE, just talk to the liaison of the 501st garrison and see what are the requirements. Worst case scenario, you can cover those chipped off green spots with the armor base green. Also, you will need the Pre-Pro #2 left knee stencils to achieve the SE look:
DentedGent
Hunter
Hopefully... It's a bit tough not being hard on myself since I'm my own worst critic. I think I just need to sit back for a bit and take a breather. For mere context, I've been looking to join the 501st and my goal is to get a solid SE impression down but with my own twist. At first I was looking for "screen-accuracy" but with more research I found out I wanted to take some small yet deliberate artistic liberties. I followed the ROTJ stencils closely but I didn't trace the damage traditionally since I found some of the chipping on the armor to be a bit "unrealistic" and "brushy" for my taste and I decided to make a more "idealized" version of the SE Fett by making my application of the chips and damage a bit more in line with the shape of the armor and the blast points but still not distracting from the original design too much. I never really understood the "mind of its own" that the weathering sometimes has with its ability to bend the paint where it wants and chip them in others. If the structural integrity of the armor is compromised over a certain area, that whole area should be chipped in my opinion. The properties of the paint should remain consistent to get a more realistic effect. It's also the reason why I used extra directional splatter on the gauntlets and bluing on the flamethrower nozzles. If you could point me in the direction of that pre-pro 2 stencil that would be awesome because my searches turned up nothing and I had to eyeball that one with the SE photo shoot pictures.
Doesn't look like an Rotj knee to me, does it?
I toned it a little more orange so that it would match the armor tonality and not stand out so yellowish though.
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RafalFett
Well-Known Hunter
Here's the link for the Pre-Pro #2 armor stencils ==> http://www.thedentedhelmet.com/f20/boba-fett-pre-pro-2-pp2-armor-stencils-42013/. From what I see you already tried to replicate the PP2 left knee, but be carefull with the colors, because the ROTJ/ROTJ SE shoulder bells and knees are different from the Pre-Pro #2 one. Also, I love your color choices for the rest of the armor, it looks very good. The ROTJ armors were not painted layered, or at least it is a partially layered. If you look at the exhibit images (try this link ==> http://www.thedentedhelmet.com/gallery/g561-star-wars-celebration-iv-b.html), you will see that most of the silver and yellow scratches are done topical and a very rushed job. Basically they took most of the ESB era hard parts and repainted them in the ROTJ colors.
Armydad
Active Hunter
Hopefully... It's a bit tough not being hard on myself since I'm my own worst critic. I think I just need to sit back for a bit and take a breather. For mere context, I've been looking to join the 501st and my goal is to get a solid SE impression down but with my own twist. At first I was looking for "screen-accuracy" but with more research I found out I wanted to take some small yet deliberate artistic liberties. I followed the ROTJ stencils closely but I didn't trace the damage traditionally since I found some of the chipping on the armor to be a bit "unrealistic" and "brushy" for my taste and I decided to make a more "idealized" version of the SE Fett by making my application of the chips and damage a bit more in line with the shape of the armor and the blast points but still not distracting from the original design too much. I never really understood the "mind of its own" that the weathering sometimes has with its ability to bend the paint where it wants and chip them in others. If the structural integrity of the armor is compromised over a certain area, that whole area should be chipped in my opinion. The properties of the paint should remain consistent to get a more realistic effect. It's also the reason why I used extra directional splatter on the gauntlets and bluing on the flamethrower nozzles. If you could point me in the direction of that pre-pro 2 stencil that would be awesome because my searches turned up nothing and I had to eyeball that one with the SE photo shoot pictures.
Doesn't look like an Rotj knee to me, does it?
I toned it a little more orange so that it would match the armor tonality and not stand out so yellowish though.
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You've got the knee pads right! No need to worry there, I've been rocking a 501st approved Fett for nearly 5 years no and I only just realized a few weeks ago that I've been wearing the wrong left knee pad ( I had been wearing the traditional ROTJ knee unknowing that it was switched on the SE for the PP2 knee.) I've since corrected it, my Fett seems to be a never ending project of upgrades and adjustments lol. As for the armor paint, for approval you should be fine with what you have. For basic approval they are usually just looking for basic look, right number of pouches, correct color scheme (not mixing ROTJ and ESB etc.) They usually arent to hard on exactness with detail as long as it appears correct. When I first got approved my Fett was a hot mess, armor was shaped wrong (but close enough) my ammo pouches were way too big, my helmet was "eyeballed" not precisely stenciled, and I still got approved. They understand that not everyone is a pro artist, but it still has to look good. So like I mentioned before, dont stress too much on the approval piece, you'll get more criticism from us here on TDH as Fett fanatics then you will from your approving officer. Here everything is Fett, with the 501st they are pouring over everything Star Wars, so they usually just go down the check list (CRL) of do you have this and that, does this look right and so forth, and they'll most likely ask another approved Fett for input while looking over your pics but its really not until 2nd and 3rd level certification that they put your suit under the microscope.
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DentedGent
Hunter
Thanks for the input. I'll try the 3M from my local shop. Hopefully that'll make these pesky decals stick.
I might just paint the decals next time though...
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DentedGent
Hunter
Oh! Anyone know someone who can sell me the appropriate scuba rig and US divers buckle? Replica or real deal, not much matter to me.
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Level3Fett
Hunter
