Theory on rear visor mounting

I am currently working on my 1st gen DP deluxe cast Jango conversion. Now that I'm on the part of the visor, a couple of new questions/answers have come up regarding rear mounting. My helmet is cast pretty thick (but nicely done!) & therefore some routing needed to be done in order to flush mount the visor from behind. After routing just the front (vertical) part of the mandibles, I test fit my pre cut acrylic visor. It was then that I found that the visor fit PERFECT without having to route out the horzizontal "eye" part of the "T". It layed in there perfect. Now my question is, was that the way the original was done? It seems that it would be way to difficult to route out the rest of the top & still get the whole visor evenly flushed. In fact, the pics that I have seen of the original Jango helmet looks as if the the ends of the visor (where it tapers into the smallest part of the sides) seems to be recessed deeper than the middle. If anyone has any pics of the iside of the real helmet, please post to help see if this was the method.
Thanks,
Art
 

MORGUE

Active Hunter
To my knowledge the visor was mounted from inside the Real helmet!
The Jango pics are very rare to find and if they are available, no one has posted any really detailed pics of the helmet! So I used the Boba Fett Ref. pics to do up my helmets!!
I have never owned a DP so I can't vouche for putting the visor on the outside of the helmet. All I can say that it would be a difficult task to route the whole thing!!
Hope this helps and keep searching someone should be able to chim in on this!!
shunned
 

Tyler Durden

Well-Known Hunter
The real Boba Fett helmets were rear mounted. The pic below is just one of many pics (most from the MOM and AOSW exhibits) that show the interior/rear mount.



It is simply too impractical to do a front mount.
 
I know that the visor is mounted from the inside on the original, at least the bottom half. But what was in question was the top (horizontal) part, especially on the Jango helmet. In the AOTC DVD documentaries, they show the Jango helmet unfinished & without the visor. It has a solid piece between the eyes, which would prohibit that part of the visor from being rear mounted. I will try to get a diagram to illustrate what I'm talking about.
 

whojedi

Active Hunter
The Jango helmet is rear mounted, I have a couple pics that will show that, kinda. But, my computer is on the freak right now. I will get back on tomorrow and email them to someone to host for me.
 

Tyler Durden

Well-Known Hunter
I know the solid piece you are referring to; it's in the "Buckethead video." You can see a similar piece in the photo I posted above. It is of course placed in after the visor is set, probably for additional support.
 

Omega Man

Active Hunter
If i rear mount my visor i must cut out the entire front piece, does this weaken it? or does the new visor reinforce
the front?
 

jrnymanprotector

Well-Known Hunter
If your helmet is a DP vinyl helmet it will be significantly weakened. But that's still the best way to do it. With Fiberglass helmets I don't think it matters much.

Phil
 

Über Fett

Active Hunter
As far as weakening the mandible area after routing out the whole visor area on a fiberglass helm; it does, but ever so slightly. And it's something that should be remedied when the visor is back in place. I too am at the point where I want to start fitting the visor to the helm.

You talk about sanding or routing the visor area near the top. I used a combination of elbow grease, sand paper, and the one and only Dremmell. Yes, it was a big pain, but I had no other choice. I actually was able to use the cutting disk on the mandibles to create "tracks" for the visor to sit in.

Shawn
 
Thats what I did with mine. I also cut the "tracks" with a cutting wheel on the front of the mandible. But after I did that the top part of the visor layed so perfectly flush, I didn't see the need to route out the top part. I will post pics soon.
Art
 

Omega Man

Active Hunter
Just finishes rear mounting my visor with #0 1/4" brass screws...25 total. The dark green visor is easily cut with scissors. Also dremeled mounting area down because of casting inconsistancies.

The screws are just a little to long so i made little square washers with the visor material and used 2 washers per screw.


Now i have some visor FLARE!!!!! on my DP 97!!!
 
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