Last but not least….the final diagram.
Each piece is labeled with a letter to indicate order of assembly. The final piece “G” has no solid dimensions associated with it since this piece will most likely have to be cut to fit (start over-sized, then work your way down with it) from any minute errors that accumulate. The next to last part, “F,” which is the outside wall, is also a part that may take some refinement. Expect the front wall, “C” to cant inwards and contact the clear part. Depending on how your work turns out, “C” may require an additional shim of .030” styrene on the inside to make a good fit along the whole length along the clear part. However, a big point I’d like to make is that on so many resin RF’s I see out there, the line I’ve highlighted below is a blocky vertical line (perpendicular to the horizon). From my reference material, this is not the case so you can see the associated angles in the diagram. Also, sealing and sanding this side takes great care so as not to turn it into a vertical line by accident. In parenthesis are the sheet thicknesses, but remember to go to a thinner sheet on “E” if going ROTJ style. As always, these dimensions are just a guess and I hope they’re close…if anything they should work well with a Mystery scaled helmet.
One last lesson. If you are considering building this thing and casting it…good luck…that goes against the whole design and you’ll probably have to glue the clear part in and sacrifice a lot of accuracy as well as functionality. Besides, it’s not that hard…
Good luck Fetts!
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