Kaym85
New Hunter
Ok, But when i line The bottom of The sides with bottom Plate, i become a gap to The base Dome. The Problem i have ist The innerlayer and The Support.
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Rafal Works Helmet (RWH) v2 Helmet Templates and Build
- Thread starter RafalFett
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Ok, But when i line The bottom of The sides with bottom Plate, i become a gap to The base Dome. The Problem i have ist The innerlayer and The Support.
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picture?
Kaym85
New Hunter
I am not at Home at The Moment, when i Come home i take some pictures.
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Ok, so after cutting out everything, I've got some fitment issues with the base form parts.
The front to back piece has some overhang, while the left to right piece comes up short. Is that by design? They were all printed in one shot, so it's not a print variance. They were all cut perfectly. Looking for input
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The front to back piece has some overhang, while the left to right piece comes up short. Is that by design? They were all printed in one shot, so it's not a print variance. They were all cut perfectly. Looking for input
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Grimstuff
Active Hunter
My memory is a little hazy on those steps, but iirc I think I had some similar slight mis-measures like that too. I think they probably come about from doing the cutouts on the central joint.
Before anything make double sure the template didn't get stretched any (I had to scrap my first try because the wet glue was warping everything) and none of em are upside down or nothin, but yeah after that, I'd say some slight forced adjustments are normal. Remember they're only supports so it's ok if they're not perfect as long as the height is good.. It's the bases themselves that have to be perfect, since that'll be what everything else attaches too. Technically you could even build without the supports, though it'd be a pain and easy to accidentally cave the whole thing in while you're wrapping the outer layer.
I think actually when I did it I just sliced off all the inside sections of the supports, so there would be like an empty circle in the middle of them all, then aligned them by their outside edges to the base edge; since that's the important part for the wrap. Like this:
The only part you gotta be careful with are the transversal supports for the cheek area, since they're spossed to overextend on the bottom to keep the wrap completely round (see that post above a bit), maybe keep those the full length. Or as long as the edge is aligned to the top base I suppose it's ok either way too.
Another mis-measure you'll likely to run into too is when you wrap the outside panels around the bases, nearly everyone gets a few mm gap in the rear above the keyhole (if it's like an inch though, that's a problem). Also the cheeks and dome are likely to be very difficult. Pretty much everyone except antman and his magic cardboard has trouble there. Bondo fixes everything though.
Before anything make double sure the template didn't get stretched any (I had to scrap my first try because the wet glue was warping everything) and none of em are upside down or nothin, but yeah after that, I'd say some slight forced adjustments are normal. Remember they're only supports so it's ok if they're not perfect as long as the height is good.. It's the bases themselves that have to be perfect, since that'll be what everything else attaches too. Technically you could even build without the supports, though it'd be a pain and easy to accidentally cave the whole thing in while you're wrapping the outer layer.
I think actually when I did it I just sliced off all the inside sections of the supports, so there would be like an empty circle in the middle of them all, then aligned them by their outside edges to the base edge; since that's the important part for the wrap. Like this:
The only part you gotta be careful with are the transversal supports for the cheek area, since they're spossed to overextend on the bottom to keep the wrap completely round (see that post above a bit), maybe keep those the full length. Or as long as the edge is aligned to the top base I suppose it's ok either way too.
Another mis-measure you'll likely to run into too is when you wrap the outside panels around the bases, nearly everyone gets a few mm gap in the rear above the keyhole (if it's like an inch though, that's a problem). Also the cheeks and dome are likely to be very difficult. Pretty much everyone except antman and his magic cardboard has trouble there. Bondo fixes everything though.
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I've built with the WoL templates, so I've worked out most of them cheek jinks.
Thanks for the reply. I printed them again and just laid em out. They're definitely a bit off. (See photo at end). That said, I made it work. Made a sanding stick of 80 grit and just made it flush with the top and bottom. Should work just fine.
Photo here shows the dome base with the front/back support laid directly on top. Nothing here is cut, it's fresh off the printer. Notice the center lines meeting up, but the overhang on the bottom.
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Thanks for the reply. I printed them again and just laid em out. They're definitely a bit off. (See photo at end). That said, I made it work. Made a sanding stick of 80 grit and just made it flush with the top and bottom. Should work just fine.
Photo here shows the dome base with the front/back support laid directly on top. Nothing here is cut, it's fresh off the printer. Notice the center lines meeting up, but the overhang on the bottom.
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Grimstuff
Active Hunter
If I'm orientated right in my head I think that particular overhang is intentional, so as to be part of the front cheek area which overhangs to help maintain the circular curve.
You can see them in the image rafal posted above:
View attachment 102525
Maybe a slight bottom overhand on the sides are intentional too now that I look at it closely. I think you said those fit good on the bottom base though and the problem was on the dome part, so maybe not, dunno. Maybe Rafal could chime in.
But yeah, either way, except for those 3 intentional forward/bottom ones, you'll be fine shimmying all the others up to be flush. The curvature of the wrap will make them all moot anyway.
You can see them in the image rafal posted above:
View attachment 102525
Maybe a slight bottom overhand on the sides are intentional too now that I look at it closely. I think you said those fit good on the bottom base though and the problem was on the dome part, so maybe not, dunno. Maybe Rafal could chime in.
But yeah, either way, except for those 3 intentional forward/bottom ones, you'll be fine shimmying all the others up to be flush. The curvature of the wrap will make them all moot anyway.
RafalFett
Well-Known Hunter
The reason for that 2/3mm difference between the helmet front/back support and the dome base is that the back side of the helmet, more exactly the dome and the back panels are not flush, but there's a step outward:
You will achieve this by glueing 2 cardboard strips on the back of the helmet. Here are some quotes from the 1st post (you might need to cut the first strip in 2 to incorporate that extra part from the front/back helmet support):
You will achieve this by glueing 2 cardboard strips on the back of the helmet. Here are some quotes from the 1st post (you might need to cut the first strip in 2 to incorporate that extra part from the front/back helmet support):
Before we deal with the inner layer, there is a small piece (it is not present on the template files) we have to add to the back of the dome base; the purpose of this piece is that the red rim's thickness on the back area of the dome is double compared to the rest of the parts. You have to cut a 330mm long and around 10mm wide strip from 2mm thick cardboard, then bevel around 50mm from both ends so that when it is glued to the dome base, the cardboard strip will flush with the rest of the parts:
...............
We have to cut another 330mm long cardboard (2mm thick) strip, but this time the width will have the extra outer layer rim's height (around 5mm). This strip is also beveled at both ends then it is glued on the back area inside of the outer layer rim:
Scaling question. Anyone shrunk these down for kids? The "fit to page" option is to small for my coconut, but looks like it will fit my 13 year old fairly well. Next up is my 6 year old, and as of today, my daughter wants to be Sabine wren, so it looks like 8ve got another helmet to get through in the next few months...
What do these kids think I am, a cosplay factory???
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What do these kids think I am, a cosplay factory???
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Andrew0928
New Hunter
I've just been using the copy function on my printer/scanner/copier. Set size to 85%, feed in adult size print out, out comes kid size. The math works too - but that's the check - measure your full size, make the smaller one, then measure it. Divide smaller size measurement by larger size and you get the ratio.
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Botozis C
New Hunter
Hello Rafal, and others! I´m new here, born in Argentina and first to all wanna than you by this super job... but i ´m a little confused here: In you post 1 and 5 found templates ... then corrections, etc... So, ¿what are the definitives -until today, at least- templates? Thanks in advance
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