Ord Mantell's PP2 Build

Another tweak to the jetpack that I'll be trying to fit in while painting the helmet: replacing the thrusters with more accurate ones using MachineCraft 's free 3D model he provided to the community. And using his thruster metal parts, which fit perfectly...

only one day to print each thruster...

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Should be pretty fast and easy. Mostly its just going to be a lot of sanding.
 
Another tweak to the jetpack that I'll be trying to fit in while painting the helmet: replacing the thrusters with more accurate ones using MachineCraft 's free 3D model he provided to the community. And using his thruster metal parts, which fit perfectly...

only one day to print each thruster...

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View attachment 247578

Should be pretty fast and easy. Mostly its just going to be a lot of sanding.
I love his metal greeblies, these are the only parts I still need for my jetpack (its still to be built) the beacon is a thing of beauty!
Have you tried the wood putty route for smoothing prints?
Some people use acetone for a quicker drying layer but I normally just use water to thin it down snd paint it on..
 
Have you tried the wood putty route for smoothing prints?
I have not heard of that. I'll look into it because I hate all the sanding, filling, and sanding. Especially for a spherical shape. Thanks.

Is this your first helmet paint up @Ord Mantell ?
It is! Hard to believe after all this time. Been thinking about this helmet for two years. Too long.
 
I have not heard of that. I'll look into it because I hate all the sanding, filling, and sanding. Especially for a spherical shape. Thanks.


It is! Hard to believe after all this time. Been thinking about this helmet for two years. Too long.
Its been a game changer!
Acetone drys the applied coats in seconds with an added bonus of not ruining your brushes, you can also use sponge tools.
It takess a few coats to build up depending on how you dilute the paste but it saves hours and hours of sanding with silky smooth surfaces.
 
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So for anyone interested in how I got the vest shiny again...

First, a few caveats... 1) this is something I would suggest only as a last restort, i.e. you accidentally went swimming in your vest, or your mom/wife threw it in the washer/dryer and all the shine came off. Or some other type of appliance tragedy and there is no going back. 2) I'm not sure this would work on fabrics other than the special treated cotton used by clothears and on the original vests. Other types of cotton or synthetic fibers might not like this method at all. 3) Do this at your own risk. It worked for me on my clothears vest and that's all I know. Perhaps this will make the fibers rot in a few months, or maybe the shine will just fade away in a few more weeks. I do not know. However, right now I am quite happy with it. 4) This is really just a short term, quick and cheap solution. A longer term more expensive solution is just to get a new vest.

I tried a bunch of things but the only thing that worked at all was wax. Gloss sprays and fabric starches just made the fabric stiff and more translucent. Absolutely no good.

I started off with a microcrystalline wax used by museums for securing displays, but it's so viscous that it needed to be heated in order to get it thin enough to apply onto the fabric. It did work in the end but it was extremely difficult to do and I wasn't ready to try it on the whole vest. But then I remembered! A while ago, bcurtis recommended a specific wax to use to seal the left gauntlet rocket tip copper, and I still had almost a whole tin of it left sitting around, so I thought I'd try that. It has a toxic smell but it's a very low viscosity which means you can just rub it on directly to the fabric without any intermediary steps. Super easy! In the end, that's what worked. My only worry was the smell might be because of some kind of petroleum product that keeps the wax thin, and maybe that might damage the fibers eventually, or make the vest highly flammable :eek:. Who knows. But it is a product used for preserving museum artifacts, so I'm hoping not. As I said, right now it seems to be fine and the smell goes away in 24 hours.

This is the stuff...

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You want to put it on real thin. And it will probably take a couple layers before it starts to polish up nice and shiny. You don't want to put it on too thick where you lose the texture of the fabric and it just becomes a sheet of white wax. Just rub it in gently and keep it thin. I used my bare fingers mostly.

close up of the fabric after applying the wax....

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This is what I mean about not losing the texture of the fabric. You want to coat the fibers with the thinnest amount possible that will still shine up with some polishing. Polish with something stiff and smooth. I used a piece of plastic the size of a guitar pick, focusing on small sections at a time. If it has gotten too thick in spots you can scrape it down as you buff it.

My gloves had very little shine left, too, so I did those as well...

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That's it. Remember... last resort. Ideally you want your stuff to made properly from the start so you do not have to deal with such shenanigans. If my vest spontaneously explodes, or my gloves suddenly powderize themselves, I'll be sure to come back here and revise this post.
 
It's time to share a found part I've not seen identified elsewhere yet, though I don't doubt it's been discovered by others already. This is a prepro part only, meaning there isn't any evidence these are on the screen-used costumes. Just ST/PP1 and PP2 and maybe the other touring costumes painted by Daydream. I brought this up in TantivOdessa 's PP1 thread just recently so I thought I would give details here since I found this originally for my PP2 build.

I got interested in figuring out what all the little extra bits for the pp2 costume were a couple years ago and started poking around trying to figure them out.


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They aren't essential parts for the build so it took me a while. Went down some rabbit holes and wasted some money. I came up with the answer for this particular doo-dad about 6 months ago. I think these are connectors used for the mic to ab speaker lines. Pretty sure they are this connector here:


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It's a type of cinch connector made by TRW and others, ID'ed as S202-CCT and P202-CCT on manufacturer boxes. I think S202 is the female, and P202 is the male. The side with the threaded ring is interchangeable and not just female or male. It can be either.


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Luckily these aren't terribly rare and you can still find NOS sources. Added to that, nobody making an ESB or ROTJ costumes needs them so their supply should not suddenly disappear overnight. Happy hunting.


PS. I heard from Cantina Dude that they used another version of this connector on the Vader suit.
 
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So this test paint job on a spare helmet turned out to be valuable. Learned some things.

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The major issue with using the vaseline is how it can make the silver layer look cloudy in places because of the wet paint on top of the vaseline when you wipe it off. I've never seen the real helmet in person so maybe that's something that happened on it just the same. Or maybe my wiping technique needs improvement. It also turns out the pressure you apply when wiping off determines how the damage looks. Vaseline is a fun way to do it if you're just winging it. A little frustrating if you're trying to replicate a pattern with accuracy. I think I'm going to continue with the latex on the rest of the my paintjob on the other helmet. Except maybe the 'pink' layer on the mandibles. On the original, the pink layer is so smooth, you can't see the layering at all, and you can only get that smooth look with vaseline or applying topically. I might do a little bit of both.
 

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