Official Resin Thread
- Thread starter Zam I Am
- Start date
MaxPlague
Well-Known Hunter
http://www.smooth-on.com/plastics.asp
Great stuff! Their Smooth-Cast 300 Series is only $60 a gallon.
They've got a HUGE range of resins to choose from too:
http://www.smooth-on.com/liqplas.htm
Great stuff! Their Smooth-Cast 300 Series is only $60 a gallon.
They've got a HUGE range of resins to choose from too:
http://www.smooth-on.com/liqplas.htm
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MaxPlague
Well-Known Hunter
Yep, I've used it. I think the cure time for the 300 is spec'd at 10 minutes, but it varies depending on how thick the piece is. I've had GREAT results with it and have no complaints yet.
EDIT:::
If you want to try it out, you can buy sample packs of there products too. It's a great deal.
EDIT:::
If you want to try it out, you can buy sample packs of there products too. It's a great deal.
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Zam I Am
Well-Known Hunter
Did you try the 320 series at all? or just the 300? I would rather depend on your opinion than go through all these samples and shipping costs, since I have a large amount of stuff to get done soon. Wow, 10 minutes is fast, the micromark brand I've used is a little longer, but not by much.
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Spidey2222
Active Hunter
The 10 minute stuff is good but you have far less time to work out bubbles. If the casting you are doing are small then it should be fine and it does make for a lot faster casting process. If the casting are bigger, then I would go for the slower stuff. I think the 300 series has a 20 to 30 minute set up time. It takes longer but the air bubbles have a lot better chance of escaping. Good luck and I would definetely go with smooth-on. They are fast and have a great customer service.
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Fetthunter
Well-Known Hunter
What products from Smooth-On would you guys recommend to make a small, flexible mold? I need something of the silicone/Urethane variety to make a mold of a small (2" x 5") part, and then I need (preferably) some sort of epoxy resin to cast it with.
Suggestions?
Suggestions?
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Zam I Am
Well-Known Hunter
Actually, the silicone molds from micromark are more flexible than the GI1000 stuff, but still great. It was really easy to get our casts outta the micromark 1:1 ratio kind. http://www.micromark.com You can tell a difference though, the GI1000 is great for multiple use, cause it's more durable, it has a ratio, so you will have measuring problems to deal with, but a bit on the higher scale of quality silicone. Not sure if we've used smooth-on for our molding material.
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Fetthunter
Well-Known Hunter
What would you suggest to actually cast the part with? I'd prefer something easy to work with and durable. This part will not be under stress, but I'd like it to survive light abuse withour crumbling. 
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Spidey2222
Active Hunter
Smooth on also makes RTV that is good for casting parts. It is real easy to work with. There is the RTV and a catalyst that you mix together in a (10:1) ratio. If your part needs a two part mould then its a little harder but not much. Each side takes a day to cure out but its worth it in the end. They make different types of RTV depending on what application you are using it for. The best thing to do would be call Smooth-on and tell them what you are trying to do and they will help you out with the right product.
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Eagleskull
Active Hunter
this is a stupid question How do u make a resin or cast of something like for example a helmet?
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obi sean kenobi
Well-Known Hunter
okay - i want to make the tippy top of the jet pack rocket with resin.
Can I just pour the smotth coat 300 into a cone shaped paper cup and let it cure?
Would that work??
Do I have to brudh the insode of the cup with mold release or does it not matter since the paper cup is disposable anyway?
Im a complete resin novice - let me know?
LMK -
Sean
Can I just pour the smotth coat 300 into a cone shaped paper cup and let it cure?
Would that work??
Do I have to brudh the insode of the cup with mold release or does it not matter since the paper cup is disposable anyway?
Im a complete resin novice - let me know?
LMK -
Sean
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Zam I Am
Well-Known Hunter
Mold release is your friend. I have never tried a paper cup, but I am sure that resin would stick to it unless you have mold release or just plain vaseline... that would work. You have to be careful of spilling resin everywhere, paper cups are pretty pourous.
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Spidey2222
Active Hunter
Another thing about resin you need watch out for is getting on your skin. I have found that after months of working with the stuff, every time it touches my skin, I break out in a nasty rash.
Lesson learned: Wear gloves and have lots of paper towels handy
Lesson learned: Wear gloves and have lots of paper towels handy
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T Visor
Active Hunter
I ask myself this question. I’m pretty sure, this is one of the biggest challenges for a costume, but what do you want to use for the mold? The Don Post BF Helmet? Only the 95' version is good enough and they’re very rare. I have a 97’ which tends to develop warping and is not a good basis for a resin copy.
The Rubies looks horrible, keep away from it!
Check this out, it’s affordable!
http://www.skygunbros-custom-creatures.com/lifesizeprops.html
The Rubies looks horrible, keep away from it!
Check this out, it’s affordable!
http://www.skygunbros-custom-creatures.com/lifesizeprops.html
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BOBA PHAT
Well-Known Hunter
One of many things. There are polyester resins that are used for fiberglass, and there are polyurethane plastic resins that a lot of prop makers use for casting. Polyesters are either clear or yellowish clear in color, and the plasitcs are ususally white or beige. Hope this helps some.
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