BOBA PHAT - The base green is a custom green that I mixed a small batch of sometime ago, and took it to Sherwin Williams to get it matched for future instances. All the weathering in done with Testors Enamels. The silver is actually a specific Krylon Silver. The only one I have found that will take Dull Coat without turning LEAD color. Otherwise, the rest of the colors are all custom mixed Testors. Unfortunately, nothing straight out of the bottle.
tylerdurden -

Yep, Yep....A definite :cheers to the maker of these buckets. Without him, we'd still be suffering from "DPTOXIMIA"
STEVE THE SWEDE - Steve, I used all enamels on my own bucket this time. It's a first for me. I usually use acryl for at least some of it, but this time, I decided to experiment. It's the only way to go as far as I'm concerned. It's a much more durable, as acryl tends to dry like an extremely hard rubber, that can chip right off in some cases if it's applied too thick, and yes, very uneven. But no matter what, don't forget the secret ingredient ....... (see below)
Bountys Hunted - Awe, he's been a Boba at heart the whole time, he's just in denial

After all, he knows that Boba, is truly what started this craze in the first place
The colors I used are:
Base Green (Dome and Cheeks)- Sherwin Williams Product # F77V100 Color KFC 10257 Green
Mandibles - Base of Ruddy brown, with a LIGHT airbrushed enamel misting of Testors DK. Red , then lightly weather with a dark wash (I used charcoal gray) and then a VERY LIGHT toothbrush misting of white wash (to get that speckled effect here and there seen on the exhibit pics. The pics above show the red mandible area a little darker than the original, but it's also lighting. It does some seriously strange things in different lights, all of which appear close to correct to me.
Inside Cheeks - Krylon Ultra Flat Black with an ULTRA LIGHT misting of Krylon Camouflage Series DK Brown (it's actually a real grimy dark brown almost black color that Softens the pitch black of the ultra. With a combo of the two, it looks real nice up close and personal. And a VERY LIGHT toothbrush misting of the white wash spatters again.
Grays - Various, as will the real Helmet. Mostly custom mixed for brightness and contrast. This is where the eyes and good computer monitor come in

But one can get most any of the grays with a combination of Flat black, Flat White, and a little bit of Sea Blue.
The Dk Red outlines on the mandibles - some call it purple, wine, plum - I simply used a combo of Dk. Red, Sea Blue, Black, and White.
Rear Green/Blue of the helmet - I fudged this tremendously. I will have to look at the paints again to jog my memory on this one (sorry)
Silver - Krylon Metallic Spray paint - Silver. This is a different series of Krylon as well. It comes in a Bluish Green can with a white Diamond on the front with SILVER in big letters in the middle of the diamond. I got it at K-mart. It can be brushed, but one must spray some into a container or the cap, and let the puddle start to dry for a little while so that it thickens up a bit. This is absolutely the only metallic paint I have found that can be sealed with Dull Coat without turning Lead Color. It keeps the silver appearance, but dulls just enough not to be obnoxious, making it appear to be used metal, not bright and shiny new
And, the SECRET INGREDIENT ...... (Shhhhhh, don't tell anyone)
You see that little pad he's using ? It a Scotchbrite

I can't stress enough, to smooth out the layers of detail, you gotta use it. Don't be afraid of it. It's a beautiful thing. Blend, Blend, Blend.
Keep in mind, as with any paint list, it's simply a guideline. The results will vary depending on the artist. I used many different techniques, some of which I do not remember in the various stages, because they happen on the fly, and could never be replicated again. That's why no matter who paints a helmet, there will always bee subtle differences from bucket to bucket.
ALTHOUGH, if I were anyone else here, I would hold out for just a little while longer. The world will be a MUCH better place once Lee (C17LM - Aurora) releases his paint codes. There is MUCH TO BE DESIRED in a paint code list that's right out of the bottle, right off the shelf, that one need not custom mix

Lee and I have worked closely, and out of respect for his hard work and many, many hours of research, I have chosen to take the custom route again with my own helmet, until he is ready to reveal his findings. But I will reiterate myself, results will vary. Just because there will be a definitive paint list, does not in any way downplay or take away from the talents of an Artisan like Lee. His colors will be an accurate base to start from, where one chooses to go from there, is up to the individual.
I hope this helps some.
Fettpride