1st time cosplay, Jango Helmet Paint questions


nobbert

New Hunter
Hi there! I'm planning on attending my first con and want to make a budget cosplay, so I bought this helmet from ebay. I wanted to paint it in Boba colors, but the con is at the end of the month and I won't have time. So I figured I could do a Jango paint job this year and have a whole year to repaint it in Boba colors. I need to find something i can temporarily fill in the dent on the helmet with so I can have an accurate Jango look but still be able to have the dent next year. Any thoughts or ideas?

In reference to the paint job itself, I am having a tough time finding the colors in person so I wanted to double check if the ones i found online the right ones before I buy them. I found this very helpful image that came from thedentendhelmet itself. I have already aquired the silver leaf Rub N Buff. Are these the correct blue spray cans in terms of color and type (enamel, gloss, etc)
Krylon Ocean Blue
Rustoelum Royal Blue

One last thing- everything seems pretty straightforward except for the two black lines on the helmet. Any tips on keeping the lines even and straight? What color paint should I use? thanks!
 

AtomWest

Jr Hunter
For the lines, you can use black pinstripes. I had originally bought some way back before I changed my mind to build a Boba instead. It lays on smooth like a decal, just have to lay it straight. Alternatively you can use masking tape, but you might get bleeding edges if not masked on well.
 

Mullreel

Well-Known Hunter
For the paints go to a JoAnns fabrics or a Hobby Lobby. You can usually find the right colors. The krylon ocean blue is in the Shortcuts line of paint. They are little cans.

For the pinstripes go to an auto parts store and they are easy to find. I usually get mine at O Reilly's.
 

remo032

Jr Hunter
Thanks for the info Mullreel. I've been searching high an low for those colors at auto parts and hardware stores. I never even thought to check Hobby Lobby or JoAnns.
 

nobbert

New Hunter
Thanks for the help! As for the Pinstriping, would something like this be accurate at 1/8th inch? Amazon.com: Trimbrite T1114 1/8 Pinstripe Tape Black: Automotive

And one more question, what order should I apply everything? I'm thinking blue paint->rub n buff->pinstripes. Do I have that right or should I do the pinstripes before the rub in buff and them mask them out? I figured rub n buff comes after the blue spray paint because it'd be tough to mask the wax with tape.

Finally, the helmet is plastic. Should I sand it doesn't before applying the paint? Again, I've never painted anything in my life so I want to make sure I do everything correct.
 
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remo032

Jr Hunter
Yes 1/8 " pin striping is what the 501st calls for.
Prime your helmet then sand smooth with 400 grit then 600 or 800 grit sand paper. I use the wet sand paper.
It can be painted however you want but keep the following things in mind. Paint will not stick well and shows lots of fish eyes when applied over Rub N Buff, pin stripping might not stick to RNB either. It's easier to paint a dark color over a light color.
Also Boba and Jango helmets look similar at first but are in fact very different when compared to each other.
 

nobbert

New Hunter
Yes 1/8 " pin striping is what the 501st calls for.
Prime your helmet then sand smooth with 400 grit then 600 or 800 grit sand paper. I use the wet sand paper.
It can be painted however you want but keep the following things in mind. Paint will not stick well and shows lots of fish eyes when applied over Rub N Buff, pin stripping might not stick to RNB either. It's easier to paint a dark color over a light color.
Also Boba and Jango helmets look similar at first but are in fact very different when compared to each other.

thanks a lot for your help. Do you have any suggestions for primer/how to prime? ALso, do you suggest using paint and brushes or spraypaint? thanks!
 

remo032

Jr Hunter
Grey automotive spray primer Krylon or Rustoleum (personal preference) use several thin coats and let dry between coats. sand till smooth like glass then re-primer if there are any spots where you sanded through the primer. then sand again and repeat if you sand through the primer. The rub-n-buff needs a smooth surface and if there are any imperfections in the primer it will show through (where the RNB is applied). Always use spray paint or an airbrush you will never get a smooth paint finish with a brush. You can use the brush or sponge or other techniques when you do the weathering. If you get any RNB where you don't want it, it can be easily removed with mineral spirits. I recommend watching this video if you haven't already before applying the RNB.
The second half of the video shows how to apply the RNB.
On a personal note I hate RNB I can never achieve the results I'm looking for when I apply it on a large surface like the back plate. After around 10 attempts and experimenting with different paints I switched to Cold Cast armor. But if your not getting the results you want from the RNB I found that Rustoleum's metallic silver is a good alternative, This is what I will be using on my jet pack since it's not Cold Cast.
Stay away from the aluminum paint though, I experimented with it and it looks awesome at first but it dries soft and shows smudges anywhere you touch it (that can't be removed) , even after sitting untouched for a month it will still smudge and if you sand it or clear coat it, it will turn grey.
 
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nobbert

New Hunter
Hey guys I keep getting these little crevices and skin like patterns. Any help? I'm sanding like hell.

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remo032

Jr Hunter
Agreed. Thin coats and allowing it to dry between coats is the trick. Read the can to see what they recommend for drying time between coats and remember that cooler temperatures will lengthen the drying time between coats. Don't try to get complete coverage with one coat. First you will need to sand down all the cracks and wrinkles so it is smooth again before painting. Also make sure that the surface is clean and free of oil, even the oil from your skin can cause problems. I use isopropyl alcohol to clean surfaces before painting, but always test it on an inconspicuous area to make sure it doesn't react negatively with the plastic. Never use Lacquer Thinner or Acetone it almost always softens or melts plastic.
As far as clear coating goes you can if you want but it's not necessary. Do not attempt to clear coat RNB it will ruin your RNB finish and won't stick properly due to the wax base of the RNB.
Also I noticed that the RF stalk is Cold Cast and they stated to use steel wool to polish it. Use the 0000 super fine steel wool for the best results.
 
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