Recent content by Neo Fett

Now because it is acrylic make sure the humbrol enamels are fully dry when you spray it ontop and vice versa. I find waiting at least 12 hours is long enough.

Very nice! That silver looks much closer to how I remember it spraying. One thing I've learned with airbrushing is there is no set in stone correct way to do anything. Experiment with thinners and ratios until you find what works even if it's not manufacture recommended. If it works, it works.

A bit light in my opinion, and nothing on the armor is gloss. If you have access to non Humbrol paint Vallejo Model Air 71.091 "Signal Blue" is a near perfect color for the chest symbol blue. (And it is pre thinned so you can spray it right out of the bottle).

I've got 4 servo kits up as a small run on my website. I'll be taking a break offering these due to tarrifs and locating parts. So if you want one, now is the time. https://shop.neopropshop.com/product/electronics/wireless-servo-kit/

Not sure how you are mixing, but getting one of these was a godsend for humbrol paints when I was using them. I'd mix it in the can really good with one of these before pouring out to thin and mix again. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BROV02

I used humbrol enamels exclusively for a number of years. I only found that chalky texture when they weren't thinned properly. Personally I found that 2:1 mostly useless. Some cans needed way more, some didn't need any thinner. When I got the ratio right everything went on super super smooth.

The templates are a bit old and could use a refresh. Most people use Lark Dark (or similar, like 79) for those darker scrapes. It's so hard to tell exactly what was done there is a lot of interpretation. Also, looking at your plates it doesn't look like you got your paint thin enough (or it's...

I'd be interested in just the Pulce 40 mold. Would you split?

It's just a software toggle that changes at what position the lights activate. It doesn't live update, just on the next movement cycle.

Correct, I started putting them on top in later revisions.

There is a little switch on the main board that toggles what position the lights come on.

No problem, happy to talk about it.

I'd say masking tape too. Kind of looks like it has the texture of it too. Could also be a painted and weathered line though. Doesn't appear to have much dimension to it whatever it is.

Yea pretty much. The ridges are left over from that FettPride thought he saw but upon further investigation they do look pretty smooth. The ESB flamer has such bad reference material much of it is just up to interpretation. I wouldn't say there is any solid proof that they are smooth, but also...

My one suggestion would be request the legs be a little longer for that baggy ankle look. The length mine came from my measurements isn't bad, but an extra 2 inch of fabric woulda done wonders.