RF Topper Help

Fettastic

Fettastic

Active Hunter
Hey Team,
I have an FPH2 Range Finder Topper kit that I'm working on. I have a tilt led light assembly that I got from salamanderking and I'd like to install it and still be able to get to it if needed. It has the two red led's, one white led, the tilt box, the small battery, and then all the wires. It seems like too much to pack in and tuck away behind the perspex block. Has anyone installed one of these? Any tips that may help me with this project?
 
JC27 makes a kit to fit that specific RF. I havent seen SK's kit so not sure of the sizing..pics would help us help ya. On my RFs, the clear block is fairly thin towards the back so a light kit can fit in it. I cant remember how the FPH2 one was.
 
Darth Voorhees said:
JC27 makes a kit to fit that specific RF. I havent seen SK's kit so not sure of the sizing..pics would help us help ya. On my RFs, the clear block is fairly thin towards the back so a light kit can fit in it. I cant remember how the FPH2 one was.
Click to expand...

The FPH2 is fairly thin too, any recommendations on how to attach the clear perspex block without making it permanent? I want to be able to replace the battery without too much of a hassle. I'll take some pictures when I get home.
 
You could get a small but strong magnet and glue it into either the block or the rf topper and put a metal washer opposite of it.
 
Yes i was going to say, magnets is how ive done it in the past. Only thing about that is you can see them if you look directly from the bottom of the RF..but it is the best way to do that that i found
 
Cam, I am using hot glue on mine (using Jc's self contained kit).

My Terminal Fettler has magnets, and is quite a sweet setup, but its for a hollow stalk kit....
 
Drax said:
You could get a small but strong magnet and glue it into either the block or the rf topper and put a metal washer opposite of it.
Click to expand...


Darth Voorhees said:
Yes i was going to say, magnets is how ive done it in the past. Only thing about that is you can see them if you look directly from the bottom of the RF..but it is the best way to do that that i found
Click to expand...

I have seen this done before but I think I could even see the magnet from the side profile through the perspex block which is what I want to avoid if possible. I do love magnets though.

Level3Fett said:
Cam, I am using hot glue on mine (using Jc's self contained kit).

My Terminal Fettler has magnets, and is quite a sweet setup, but its for a hollow stalk kit....
Click to expand...

What are you going to do when the batter runs out? Use an exacto knife to cut the glue?
 
Fettastic said:
I have seen this done before but I think I could even see the magnet from the side profile through the perspex block which is what I want to avoid if possible. I do love magnets though.



What are you going to do when the batter runs out? Use an exacto knife to cut the glue?
Click to expand...

Yes sir, exactly...
 
Fettastic said:
I have seen this done before but I think I could even see the magnet from the side profile through the perspex block which is what I want to avoid if possible. I do love magnets though.



What are you going to do when the batter runs out? Use an exacto knife to cut the glue?
Click to expand...
Cover the bottom of the perpsex in white vinyl first before attaching a magnet....
 
Here are a couple images of the tilt led light system.

Topper 1.jpg

Topper 2.jpg
 
I'm curious what color that clear LED is. If it's green, it does not match the 501st CRL (if you are going for that). The ESB CRL (can't remember if the ROTJ one was updated) states that there are 2 red LEDs and 1 white or clear LED, green is not an approv s color any more.
 
Jc27 said:
I'm curious what color that clear LED is. If it's green, it does not match the 501st CRL (if you are going for that). The ESB CRL (can't remember if the ROTJ one was updated) states that there are 2 red LEDs and 1 white or clear LED, green is not an approv s color any more.
Click to expand...

cellspacing="10" width="100%" style="width: 100%"
|-
| For level two certification (if applicable):

  • T-Visor is smoke gray.
  • Two red LEDs sticking out of the top of the rangefinder with an alternating flashing sequence when the rangefinder is in the down position and a white light in the frosted clear bottom.

|-
| For level three certification (if applicable):

  • Rangefinder moves up and down with a servo motor.

|-

It's white or clear. And I should be good all the way through level three certs.
 
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