Stormrider
Well-Known Hunter
Great work as usual M...
Not nearly as nice as the sidearm project. But im making progress slowly but surely.
Yet another webley list.
- Thread starter Stormrider
- Start date
Not nearly as nice as the sidearm project. But im making progress slowly but surely.
Stormrider
Well-Known Hunter
I have not started a list yet. For me to do that I would have to set the price at 199.99 shipped, because this project is staying under $200.
I am going to redo the grip again, and have yet to finish the dplate.
The trigger guard is in new rubber atm, and the stocks im not sure about what material to use. The 'lightweight' stuff would cost me almost $20 a pull, with no mistakes, and it doesnt debubble well, so there will be a lot of mistakes.
I bit the bullett and bought the degass chaimber. Im ordering the vac pump now.
It should make the (next) molds last a lot longer, which is good cause im gonna need to get 20 guns out to recoup
Thanks for the input. It looks a little better in PICTURES than it does in person, in some spots. in some spots it looks bettter in person.
M2
I am going to redo the grip again, and have yet to finish the dplate.
The trigger guard is in new rubber atm, and the stocks im not sure about what material to use. The 'lightweight' stuff would cost me almost $20 a pull, with no mistakes, and it doesnt debubble well, so there will be a lot of mistakes.
I bit the bullett and bought the degass chaimber. Im ordering the vac pump now.
It should make the (next) molds last a lot longer, which is good
cause im gonna need to get 20 guns out to recoupThanks for the input. It looks a little better in PICTURES than it does in person, in some spots. in some spots it looks bettter in person.
M2
Galactic Hunter
Active Hunter
What type of adhesives would be needed to attach the scope brackets and V8 engine arm set-up to sides?
THX
:cheers
THX
:cheers
Stormrider
Well-Known Hunter
These are poly-u so any poly u adhesive works.
Thick CA even works.
You need a flat spot for any 'brittle' glue to adhere to though, so any place wher eyour 'building up' youd want a 2 part epoxy or something thick.
I will be pouring more and more parts today and test fitting. Im going to start the pistol body again. So lots of updates coming.
Thick CA even works.
You need a flat spot for any 'brittle' glue to adhere to though, so any place wher eyour 'building up' youd want a 2 part epoxy or something thick.
I will be pouring more and more parts today and test fitting. Im going to start the pistol body again. So lots of updates coming.
RangerChet
Jr Hunter
It looks great even with the line in the grip. I tend to think if I make that trip you would be teaching class all day...
Have you thought of maybe a foam core in the stock to cut weight?
Chris
Have you thought of maybe a foam core in the stock to cut weight?
Chris
Stormrider
Well-Known Hunter
Yah bro, I thought about the foam core. The issue is that its a mold with a cap. Im going to pick up a bit of foam, and try pouring one, but the seam line needs to be near invisible. Reason being is it has a _real_ wood grain texture. Any sanding ruins that. Therefor the seam is on the butt plate around the edge of it.
Ive thought about hollow roto casting it, and then drilling a couple of vent holes at the cnc'd part where the bracket attaches. That way the holes are covered by the bracket.
In all, realistically without this thing being 'injection molded' its hard to get every bubble out, but im trying to make sure that There is as little cleanup as possible.
Especially in the high profile areas.
Ive gotten quite a few pm's asking about individual pieces. Which I dont mind selling, but I need to clear it up.
The mold will be good for roughly 20 kits (barrell mold, stock mold) which use a LOT of silicone. Now, it could last till 30-40 but this batch wasnt de-gassed, which will improve the mold quality a LOT.
The reason the larger molds dont last as long is because the larger the piece, the more heat that is given off from the part. The more heat, the shorter the parts life span.
Each barrell I sell means one less kit. So when I break these out and offer up the pieces, they arent going to be dirt cheap. They are going to have to be a % of a full kit.
Lets say that the kit is $175 each. I need to break it down into the parts and sell them accordingly, because each major piece I sell, is in fact, a whole kit that can not be created.
Because if I sell 5 barrels, that only leaves 15 kits. I can see selling 5 spare bronze grips, and bodies, maybe D brackets, less stocks, and even fewer hammers, trigger guards, backplates/risers etc.
So I guess Im warning that ill post a price on individual parts, in different materials, but expect, a barrell for example, to be $40-60 shipped. Depending on the material etc. Which isnt cheap. But unfortunately I have to do that, because the break down on this project is really pretty incredible.
So far:
Gun $1700+ (Thats the BID but theres a 10% premium, shipping, documents, etc)
Plastics/Rubbers 250+ (100 resin, 100 rubber, dyes, powders etc)
Silicone $500+ (The gun oil inhibits platinum resins, the tin I use is 144 a gallon. HS3 from Alumilite)
Clays, releases, box materials $100
So to this point, not including 100+ hours i have $2550+ into this.
Not including humidifier, vac chamber, vac pump, and other things that are 'tools' and will depreciate over 10 projects.
So once I sell 15 guns, if I price them at 175+shipping to keep them to your door under $200, ill be even on materials (except ill have to buy more by then. (Granted I still own the gun
So I guess my point is, I love to share. Im the kind of person that wants to share things I have with people. Id have to sell 50-75 of these to make the kind of money that I could make doing something else with my time. Like web software. Which im MUCH better at
So understand, when I, and or any of the other people here like FP or Alex, or MOW or anyone that theres a lot more that goes into it than the '$10' in resin.
Really the people to thank for this project are Chris (FP) and my daughter. Because the profit I made from the knees, and the last 10 orders of helmet foams that my daughter helped me with, all that money went into this.
And its well worth it, as long as everyone appreciates the work thats put into it.
That being said, im off to redo the grip mold. I see what I did wrong the first time, and I think I can REALLY improve the results. And im waiting on the D-Bracket and triggerguard mold to be completed anyway
Thanks as always for the interest.
Mason
Ive thought about hollow roto casting it, and then drilling a couple of vent holes at the cnc'd part where the bracket attaches. That way the holes are covered by the bracket.
In all, realistically without this thing being 'injection molded' its hard to get every bubble out, but im trying to make sure that There is as little cleanup as possible.
Especially in the high profile areas.
Ive gotten quite a few pm's asking about individual pieces. Which I dont mind selling, but I need to clear it up.
The mold will be good for roughly 20 kits (barrell mold, stock mold) which use a LOT of silicone. Now, it could last till 30-40 but this batch wasnt de-gassed, which will improve the mold quality a LOT.
The reason the larger molds dont last as long is because the larger the piece, the more heat that is given off from the part. The more heat, the shorter the parts life span.
Each barrell I sell means one less kit. So when I break these out and offer up the pieces, they arent going to be dirt cheap. They are going to have to be a % of a full kit.
Lets say that the kit is $175 each. I need to break it down into the parts and sell them accordingly, because each major piece I sell, is in fact, a whole kit that can not be created.
Because if I sell 5 barrels, that only leaves 15 kits. I can see selling 5 spare bronze grips, and bodies, maybe D brackets, less stocks, and even fewer hammers, trigger guards, backplates/risers etc.
So I guess Im warning that ill post a price on individual parts, in different materials, but expect, a barrell for example, to be $40-60 shipped. Depending on the material etc. Which isnt cheap. But unfortunately I have to do that, because the break down on this project is really pretty incredible.
So far:
Gun $1700+ (Thats the BID but theres a 10% premium, shipping, documents, etc)
Plastics/Rubbers 250+ (100 resin, 100 rubber, dyes, powders etc)
Silicone $500+ (The gun oil inhibits platinum resins, the tin I use is 144 a gallon. HS3 from Alumilite)
Clays, releases, box materials $100
So to this point, not including 100+ hours i have $2550+ into this.
Not including humidifier, vac chamber, vac pump, and other things that are 'tools' and will depreciate over 10 projects.
So once I sell 15 guns, if I price them at 175+shipping to keep them to your door under $200, ill be even on materials (except ill have to buy more by then
. (Granted I still own the gunSo I guess my point is, I love to share. Im the kind of person that wants to share things I have with people. Id have to sell 50-75 of these to make the kind of money that I could make doing something else with my time. Like web software. Which im MUCH better at
So understand, when I, and or any of the other people here like FP or Alex, or MOW or anyone that theres a lot more that goes into it than the '$10' in resin.
Really the people to thank for this project are Chris (FP) and my daughter. Because the profit I made from the knees, and the last 10 orders of helmet foams that my daughter helped me with, all that money went into this.
And its well worth it, as long as everyone appreciates the work thats put into it.
That being said, im off to redo the grip mold. I see what I did wrong the first time, and I think I can REALLY improve the results. And im waiting on the D-Bracket and triggerguard mold to be completed anyway
Thanks as always for the interest.
Mason
987654321a
Hunter
Looking good bro, I am interested pending final price.
RangerChet
Jr Hunter
I'm not sure what the mold looks like, but we used to take a piece of styrofoam and suspend it as centered as possible with thin rigid wire or toothpicks and pour conrete around it in the mold (sand casting) to half the weight of preforms. It's just another idea and in most cases we couldn't see the spots where the wire was. I'm sure with this medium it would leave small spots, though.
Still like the looks and you can count me in on it, regardless.
Still like the looks and you can count me in on it, regardless.
Stormrider
Well-Known Hunter
^ ^ a bladders not a bad idea.
Im looking for a self skinning expandable foam right now. but havent found anthing id be happy with.
The main options are lightweight resins, or rotocasting it. One costs a lot more, the other takes a lot more time. Rotocasting a stock would take as long as rotocasting a helmet The last time I rattlecast it it got some thin spots in the buttplate. But thats because the gas entrapment actually pushed my squish cap off. Im wondering if I tried it again with the cap fastened on if id get a good rotocast in just a 7 minute shaker.
Im looking for a self skinning expandable foam right now. but havent found anthing id be happy with.
The main options are lightweight resins, or rotocasting it. One costs a lot more, the other takes a lot more time. Rotocasting a stock would take as long as rotocasting a helmet
The last time I rattlecast it it got some thin spots in the buttplate. But thats because the gas entrapment actually pushed my squish cap off. Im wondering if I tried it again with the cap fastened on if id get a good rotocast in just a 7 minute shaker.Stormrider
Well-Known Hunter
I was hoping the silicone would be fully cured tonight, but its not. so tomorrow ill pour the second half the new body. And pull a dplate and new trigger guard and stock fo rhis gun. Ill have a full gun put together tomorrow night I think, to see where I ned to tighten things up, and figure out the price.
The one i have put together, is pretty dcnt for all scrap pulls Its probably the one ill use for myself. Though not perfect, it will remind me 'DONT START ANOTHER ONE OF THESE PROJECTS!, Do a puzzle or something.'
The one i have put together, is pretty dcnt for all scrap pulls
Its probably the one ill use for myself. Though not perfect, it will remind me 'DONT START ANOTHER ONE OF THESE PROJECTS!, Do a puzzle or something.'
phantomfett
Active Hunter
Stormrider
Well-Known Hunter
It wont come to any surprise to anyone that knows me, that im OCD and ADD at the same time.
Today I was bored, so I went ahead and glued a scrap gun together.
I then pulled a cold cast D-Bracket and roto cast a black stock.
I laid them all together, and heres what you get.
Mind you, none of these parts have been cleaned, sanded or painted. Just taken out of the mold warm, and the trimmings torn off by hand or an exacto knife
I cant wait to pull a nice dplate and grip tomorrow.
Goodnight
Today I was bored, so I went ahead and glued a scrap gun together.
I then pulled a cold cast D-Bracket and roto cast a black stock.
I laid them all together, and heres what you get.
Mind you, none of these parts have been cleaned, sanded or painted. Just taken out of the mold warm, and the trimmings torn off by hand or an exacto knife
I cant wait to pull a nice dplate and grip tomorrow.
Goodnight
Galactic Hunter
Active Hunter
Ahhhhh Yes, The Ole Pool Table / Workbench, Nice!
"CLASSIC"!
:cheers
"CLASSIC"!
:cheers
Stormrider
Well-Known Hunter
Well Ive got a good cast of about everything but the pistol grip, which is taking another bath in silicone now.
Id say im looking at 95% bubble free on outward faces. Im struggling a bit with the dbracket right now. Its, as we all know, hard to make a plastic dbracket thats sturdy enough for the gun. It wont break, but it wobbles a bit when shook. It doesnt sag when held, or moved, but wobbles.
The stocks im gonna roto cast and it will be up to you all to drill and fill with foam if yo uwant. They should be pretty tough though. Or ill use the more expensive filler, but ****, is it messy.
Im going to sell some of the rough mockups at half price, but there will be some cleanup on them, as what makes it a 'rough mockup' is the fact that there are a few air bubbles in them.
Right now, im still under 200 shipped, for the first 10-15 guns I do.
Spidey is helping me put together the parts to make a ESB kit, again, bubble free with proper finish, that I will make sure is a bolt on solution for this kit.
Lastly, im talking to my machinist about making:
Metal Trigger, Trigger Guard, , hammer that are exactly like the real one. I dont know what he will charge me. But I wont mark it up, and offer them in a kit, as long as he thinks he can make them without difficulty.
So, with that being said, I quick glued together a webley last night to see how it would look with all early run parts and a rubber barrell. Ill post the pic tonight, and you can tell me what you think.
Im not sure that the rubber barrell is necessary, but they will be available. Right now, this first list, is going to be limited to 15. Figure 195 shipped in the US. Shipping outside will be a 'buyers risk' if customs decides it looks too much like a real gun. Which im pretty sure they will. My family doesnt know the difference between the real one and the fake one from 5 feet away.
We can start a list if anyones interested.
If I dont get a list, ill pull, piece, finish and sell finished kits until they are gone.
ciao
m2
Id say im looking at 95% bubble free on outward faces. Im struggling a bit with the dbracket right now. Its, as we all know, hard to make a plastic dbracket thats sturdy enough for the gun. It wont break, but it wobbles a bit when shook. It doesnt sag when held, or moved, but wobbles.
The stocks im gonna roto cast and it will be up to you all to drill and fill with foam if yo uwant. They should be pretty tough though. Or ill use the more expensive filler, but ****, is it messy.
Im going to sell some of the rough mockups at half price, but there will be some cleanup on them, as what makes it a 'rough mockup' is the fact that there are a few air bubbles in them.
Right now, im still under 200 shipped, for the first 10-15 guns I do.
Spidey is helping me put together the parts to make a ESB kit, again, bubble free with proper finish, that I will make sure is a bolt on solution for this kit.
Lastly, im talking to my machinist about making:
Metal Trigger, Trigger Guard, , hammer that are exactly like the real one. I dont know what he will charge me. But I wont mark it up, and offer them in a kit, as long as he thinks he can make them without difficulty.
So, with that being said, I quick glued together a webley last night to see how it would look with all early run parts and a rubber barrell. Ill post the pic tonight, and you can tell me what you think.
Im not sure that the rubber barrell is necessary, but they will be available. Right now, this first list, is going to be limited to 15. Figure 195 shipped in the US. Shipping outside will be a 'buyers risk' if customs decides it looks too much like a real gun. Which im pretty sure they will. My family doesnt know the difference between the real one and the fake one from 5 feet away.
We can start a list if anyones interested.
If I dont get a list, ill pull, piece, finish and sell finished kits until they are gone.
ciao
m2
Stormrider
Well-Known Hunter
PS: The dbrackets are NOT silver. I just did that because I was bored.
