Rubber Knees v1

If it means a cleaner pull with more integrity I'd pay the extra. Simply put if it means the product will stand up longer, the cost difference balances out in the long run. Especially when you consider buying replacements over time.
 
Im fully in on this and the extra sounds worth it IF you get enough orders so your not out of pocket... but Im in either way :)

Just to clarify... I mean degassed or not! :)
 
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Given what I think was a very fair cost to begin with and the generous nature with which you were going to donate proceeds to Chris and Pam, I don't think anyone would take issue with the extra $10 to cover costs. Soldier on, Mason!
 
Technically the exterior will be clean no matter what. What the machine does is take all the air out of the resin/rubber. Meaning that its 'glass pure' all the way through, instead of 'rough textured'.

So it makes it much tougher, much cleaner and better overall.

I intend to get one pair pulled and in the hands of an unbias observer before we make any decisions.

Ok, that being said im off to a LONG day in the work room.

M2
 
Well I spent 10 hours getting the knees prepared. FettPride's stuff is amazing. Once you get the knees trimmed they have such a great shape to them. The trick here is getting them trimmed, and all the trim lines (at least most of them) sanded away, and then the entire cavity filled with epoxy plastic.

Once thats done, which is what I did all day, a coat or two of primer and spot filler to fill any gaps, and its off to the rubber races. Tomorrow it should take a rubber bath. Well technically, im going to have to use about 4 techniques on this mold. But it should yield impressive results.

I have cold cast powder (not true cold cast, but a silver powder coating.

FettPride thinks the knees are best off in yellow. On monday ill be buyinhg some yellow dye for the parts. This will mean you just put the overspray and silver/cream colored weathering on them, and your done.

The other options are black, and silver. Both of which have plusses and minuses.

Well, im off to create the final piece of this puzzle. More info tomorrow. Thanks for sticking with me.

Mason
 
If they are yellow, the will probably all be yellow. Ill have to dye the entire batch of rubber in one swoop, to get it consistent. If they are black or silver, they could be more of a mixture, black I can do on a item basis. The sillver powder, is sometimes a logistical night mare but can yield really nice results (I did some of my custom earcaps like this).

Ill know once I start pulling some test knees whats possible and whats probable.

Im really hoping for rubber tomorrow.

Again, ive promised chris the highest possible (within reason time wise) product from his knees, and I dont want to let him down.
 
Personally, I'd prefer silver since it might mean that I can still do a layered technique with the cream and yellow. Even if the knees are yellow, I'd still likely repaint them silver so I can do the whole shebang layered. Saves me that step. :)
 
Personally, I'd prefer silver since it might mean that I can still do a layered technique with the cream and yellow. Even if the knees are yellow, I'd still likely repaint them silver so I can do the whole shebang layered. Saves me that step. :)

what he said :)

i mean... don't stress over it, painting them silver first won't kill anyone. my logic remains that at least scratches / chips will *look* intentional that way

if yellow is the color, then yellow is the color.
 
Well, the knees are in the primary rubber tonight.

If things go well before work tomorrow, ill start the insert. That will mean Ill be able to pull the test knees tomorrow night.

I ended up having to do the molds in a very expensive way. The rubber im using needs heat, so it will need to be warmed in the oven for 30 minutes (the mold that is) before pouring the rubber in. This will cause a faster and harder set of the rubber.

But trust me, you dont want know know what 4 gallons of this silicone costs:) so cross your fingers theres no blemishes in the mold and the seperation lines are right.

More tomorrow
m2
 
Knees are in the second half of the rubber now.

Should things go as planned, ill be able to pull pairs of them tomorrow.I see no reason, barring something happening to the mold tonight, that this wont work perfectly.

if I pull a pair tomorrow and im happy with them, expect a signup/committment thread by evening, and knees shipping by friday.

Ciao
Mason
 
Molds split, i had a little seep under to deal with. Most of it is not going to leave a parting line at all.

I also stamped themold with a FP on the inside of the knees.

While these are molded and made by me, FP deserves the credit for the mold, but more importantly, it doesnt actually stand for Fett Pride:)

It stands for 'For Pam'.

The price looks like $75 shipped US. (Add 10 if you need knee darts). Im not sure if the knee darts will be rubber or not. $85 outside the US.

Theres still a possibility of getting a degass machine. But I want to do a few without to test them first.

It should be noted that neither Chris (FP) or I could rip the test knee with our hands no matter how hard we tried. And I curl well over a hundred and bench 300. So the 'casual snappage' shoudl NEVER happen.

Still looking into the cold cast.

Im going to do a regular cast to clean out the mold (resin). A rubber cast. A rubber cast then paint it silver. And a cold cast tonight.

Then its time to look at what we have and make some decisions:)

Chris votes for an all orange knee. And he may be right, but im stubborn:)
 
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