The exact original material has not been found.
There may be have been slight variations used for different films,tour suits etc.
Tackle twill resembles the sheen and texture of the original material and is a good choice for those reasons. However it is too thick and stiff to truly look the part.
dellorama, I love that you made your own vest! I'm hoping this side discussion isn't discouraging you.
I just wanted to make sure you didn't feel obligated to adhere to the old and incorrect "shiny vs dull" fabric side debate.
P.S. I own a tackle twill vest myself and love it.