A Good starter is the Aztek. Pretty easy to maintain and comes in a lot of variations. Parts and supplies are easy to come by too as it's quite popular.
I'd go for dual action brush, they can be more difficult to use but yiu have a lot more control. As for the container I always use jars as they...
Looks ok for a Hasbro.....Wait it's not?.....It's HOW MUCH??? I know MR lost the LFL license but that's no reason to stop trying. If you're not gonna do it right don't do it at all........:thumbsdown::thumbsdown::thumbsdown::thumbsdown::thumbsdown:
I'd quite happily write a basic "beginners guide" article to be included at the top of each section. I think with my level of knowledge there's no chance of me drifting into too much detail. :)
Thanks for the info, I'm gonna use smooth-on for reference but there are few if any places in the UK that stock it.:( I'll try some local alternatives and let you know how it goes.
Sintra seems to be the dominant market name for foam pvc in the US (like Sellotape) but there are a few other brands available in the rest of the world. This company in the UK stocks a good brand called Foamalux .
A quick google search for "pvc foam board" will give you some sources in your...
Eighteen the link you posted is for a product usually known in the UK as "foamex" It is basically two thin sheets of glossy card sandwitching a layer of high density polystyrene foam. It's hell to work with and doesen't bend easily. The site you posted had this however -...
I'd go for metal as it's more likely to keep it's shape. They come in a lot of sizes and are used for things like needlework. I personally yoinked mine out of an old lampshade. :)
Been working with these templates in paper for the moment and I notced that a some peoples upper cheek pieces have a definate fold running diagonally at about 45 degrees from the top corner to the middle whilst some don't. Is there any reason for this? Is there supposed to be a fold?
Score the inside of the helmet with a big kitchen knife to get some good gouges and grooves for the resin to take to. Put a thin coat of resin on the part you want to work on and stick the mat to it. Dab more resin on top until completely covered. Leave a few inches and repeat. This helps to...
Thanks Steelblitz that's exactly the sort of info I was after. The parts I am making are similar to the Clone belt boxes. I was considering using gelcoat(sp?) to give a smooth surface on the piece before back filling with foam. I always had the impression that the foams were air reactive and...