Superjedi's FPH2 for Slynger

superjedi · Jan 21, 2017

Thanks guys.

Mullreel, do it!

Got the left mandible done yesterday but it got too late to post the pics. This one has some good detail on it, but it's
nothing compared to the crazy right mandible!

Again, the screen used version doesn't have all the damage seen in the exhibit pics. I always think the pics at this stage look
kinda funny. . . Fett only has half a face!

Darth Voorhees · Jan 21, 2017

LOVE your work man, this is coming out killer! What silver do you use? Every time i try to do any silver topical it seems very hard to not have brush strokes. Yours always looks so even. I really want to try to do a helmet topical but i havent because of the silver. I usually use the Model Master silver chrome trim, maybe i should just use a regular silver?

BudaFett · Jan 21, 2017

Looking awesome, Eric! Little behind schedule no? ;-)

superjedi · Jan 21, 2017

Darth Voorhees said:
LOVE your work man, this is coming out killer! What silver do you use? Every time i try to do any silver topical it seems very hard to not have brush strokes. Yours always looks so even. I really want to try to do a helmet topical but i havent because of the silver. I usually use the Model Master silver chrome trim, maybe i should just use a regular silver?

Hey DV

Thanks, man. I use Floquil Bright Silver. It's the best silver I've ever found. Floquil, as well as Polly Scale, are great self-leveling paints, so brush strokes are minimized pretty nicely.
I sure wish Testors hadn't discontinued those brands. . . sigh.

rnbuda said:
Looking awesome, Eric! Little behind schedule no? ;-)

Really, Robert?!

Darth Voorhees · Jan 21, 2017

Awesome thanks Eric! Yea i use a bunch of floquils as well..they really are the best...it sure does suck they discontinued them. I try to buy up as much as i can when i find them. I'll have to see if i can find some bright silver

thanks again bud!

BudaFett · Jan 21, 2017

superjedi said:
Really, Robert?!

Two helmets in under 14 weeks would be wildly impressive!

slynger · Jan 21, 2017

Looking great, can't wait to see the right one.

superjedi · Jan 22, 2017

Thanks, and you don't have to wait any longer.

The right mandible is done!

Whew. . . this is always a killer. So many little intricate details.
I did this area over a few sessions the last couple of days.

Not only did I finish the mandible, but this also completes all of the "basic" paint application on the entire helmet!
I still have the detailing to do on the ears, and the effects painting on the helmet. So we're getting there.

Here's another angle.

Effects will be underway soon!

BudaFett · Jan 22, 2017

Looks great, Eric! When will you start using your mini-lighting studio for pictures?

superjedi · Jan 22, 2017

Thanks.

I'll get it set up to do the final pics.

BudaFett · Jan 22, 2017

superjedi said:
Thanks. I'll get it set up to do the final pics.

Looking forward to it! I still look at my helmet every day in awe!

slynger · Jan 22, 2017

That looks great. Can't believe how close it is.

superjedi · Jan 23, 2017

Getting closer each day.

Speaking of days, this marks 30 days into the project.

Got a couple of the effects completed. I added the pale contrasting gray that's scattered all around the helmet. There's a bit more concentrated
in certain areas, like the right rear panel, down the curve of the right mandible, and in the dent. Here are a couple of shots.

In the above shot I have also blocked in the pale gray in the open area between the upper and lower RF ear pieces.
Here's the dent.

I also did the white thumbprints. I always think this feature seems like a "whoops!" kind of thing, but they are visible in screen shots.

Next up I'll be adding the fade under the killstripes. Then I'll start detailing the ears.

BudaFett · Jan 23, 2017

Eric,

I think something that's regularly overlooked in how you cut out the visor. It seems so flush, how do you do it?

slynger · Jan 23, 2017

I can't say how much this thing is impressing me. Truly a work of art.

superjedi · Jan 24, 2017

rnbuda said:
Eric,

I think something that's regularly overlooked in how you cut out the visor. It seems so flush, how do you do it?

It's basically just some tedious, dusty work. I cut out the visor area with a cutoff wheel on my Dremel, then use a couple of different grinding bits to thin it out.
Before I use the cutoff wheel, I use a fine drill bit to clear out the outer corners of the visor, since the cutoff wheel won't reach into that area.
Once the shape of the visor is removed, you can kind of see a "parting line" that exists where the mold has had something put in place for casting. I use that line as a guide and grind things out until it's a uniform thickness. It does take a while to do, and I use at least 2 different types of bits. I use a small sanding drum-type bit, and a bullet-shaped grinding stone.
You have to do a little bit of contortion to get the Dremel into the lid to do the horizontal parts (at least with a full size Dremel tool) and I make sure to take my time so I don't remove too much material. After I get done, I'm usually covered in resin dust.

BudaFett · Jan 25, 2017

The work you put into that process shows. It makes a huge difference.

Skyfire · Jan 25, 2017

superjedi said:
It's basically just some tedious, dusty work. I cut out the visor area with a cutoff wheel on my Dremel, then use a couple of different grinding bits to thin it out.
Before I use the cutoff wheel, I use a fine drill bit to clear out the outer corners of the visor, since the cutoff wheel won't reach into that area.
Once the shape of the visor is removed, you can kind of see a "parting line" that exists where the mold has had something put in place for casting. I use that line as a guide and grind things out until it's a uniform thickness. It does take a while to do, and I use at least 2 different types of bits. I use a small sanding drum-type bit, and a bullet-shaped grinding stone.
You have to do a little bit of contortion to get the Dremel into the lid to do the horizontal parts (at least with a full size Dremel tool) and I make sure to take my time so I don't remove too much material. After I get done, I'm usually covered in resin dust.

You might enjoy this tool for the grunt work, prior to the final clean up. Adjustable angle on the belt and gets into those hard to reach areas nicely. There are lots of brands out there and even air powered ones, but this was one of the times I felt a Chicago electric/ Harbor Freight tools, cheap tool was the way to go. But I am getting a larger version in Mikita after one of the guys on astromech showed us how useful it was. This one is called a 1/2" band file belt sander.

superjedi · Jan 25, 2017

Thanks!
Skyfire, that might be worth looking into! Appreciate the info.

Still working on some effects and ear details. First I did the "stain" on the right side of the dome. This is a subtle vertical smudgey looking stain
that has a couple of darker spots. I add this by drybrushing with some Polly Scale Tarnished Black. It's a bit more apparent by eye, but still pretty faint.

I also added the fade below the killstripes. I use an acrylic silver mixed with the dome weathering shade and apply it with a fine brush.
Here, it's not very apparent.

But when the light catches it at certain angles, it's readily visible.

I completed the lower RF ear piece, too. Just using the same gray/silver that I've used all along.

Next I'll be masking the ears to airbrush the black and white arches.

slynger · Jan 25, 2017

Looks fantastic!

Superjedi's FPH2 for Slynger

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