RichardJones's ROTJ Animefan Paint/Build

atrophical said:
^^ that's worth taking a look at. Never seen that available, but anyway, awesome WIP
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He has them available now, Just bought another one this morning.

Last night I was able to spend about an hour to rough cut the visor out. What are people using to thin out the mandible walls? I got the straight walls with no issues, but the curved walls are proving difficult. I think I may try wrapping a curved piece of foam with sandpaper unless someone has a better method?
20160628_173737.jpg
 
Hah! Well seriously with a drill that will go slower with less of a trigger squeeze you can gently thin them down. The trick is to keep moving. If you stay in one spot you will quickly have a dip that you will need to bondo in. For the flat parts I use a bandfile initially, then spray glue sand paper to a little block of wood and plane it down.
 
ToEleven said:
Hah! Well seriously with a drill that will go slower with less of a trigger squeeze you can gently thin them down. The trick is to keep moving. If you stay in one spot you will quickly have a dip that you will need to bondo in. For the flat parts I use a bandfile initially, then spray glue sand paper to a little block of wood and plane it down.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the advise! Well sounds like a home depot trip is in my future! There are a few spots I have to bondo anyway but hopefully I don't add too many more!
 
Well, I ended up getting a 'Flap wheel 80 grit' drill bit and it worked out great. I was able to get the walls fairly thin with great care as previously suggested,,
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index.jpgIMG_0669.jpgIMG_0670.JPGIMG_0682.JPG

I also taped the visor and added the mounting clips with milliput. I plan on painting the interior towards the end of the build, so the bright yellow shouldn't distract.
IMG_0675.jpg
i still have to cut the screws to length and apply heat to the visor to better form it to the inside of the helmet.
 
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RichardJones I just ordered my stalk and some replica shin tool rods from Mojo. Thanks again for the info! If anyone is interested Mojo_skywalker on ebay has a hollow aluminum rf stalk and the found parts for the shin tools if anyone needs them. He's also a great guy and easy to work with!
 
20160704_112925.jpgSilver is down and masked. .
20160705_170741.jpg gray and beige over spray areas done.
20160707_181144.jpgNow I'm just waiting on a tin of xf-70 to arrive from China.
 
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So I had the green down on the back panel, but I ran into a few issues. First, the detail I was able to achieve with the maskol is severely lacking. The micro brushes made for maskol just weren't cutting it. Second, the misting layer under the green came out way to light.
20160711_193021.jpg20160711_193011.jpg
So after little debate, I sanded everything back to primer.
This time I have found a way to achieve incredible detail and i'm chalking the first go as a practice run..
So I have the silver masked again and the shading down, and tonight I will mask and paint the green... again! :)
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I used this for more detail with the masking fluid, it's a rubber tipped eyeliner brush (my wife had it) for better detail. It's essentially a rubber tipped paint brush, worked wonders for my ESB paint up!

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Armydad said:
I used this for more detail with the masking fluid, it's a rubber tipped eyeliner brush (my wife had it) for better detail. It's essentially a rubber tipped paint brush, worked wonders for my ESB paint up!

View attachment 101394
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I was using something similar, but it was getting gunked up really fast. I use humbrol maskol, a 5/0 synthetic brush and enamel thinner to clean the brush. I am a portrait painter so using a brush seems very natural. With the enamel thinner it makes the maskol as smooth as paint! Does your brush tip have flex to it or is it stiff?
 
It's like one big fat bristle, not a bunch of small bristles to make a brush. It's not rigid stiff, flexes easily, but also holds its shape. Great for thin tip line details, and decent for larger area brush drags. You can find them in the makeup isles of most mega marts. Super easy to clean, no thinner needed, just rubbed excess build up off with my fingers.
 
slappymancuso said:
Looking great. Very impressed with your dent replacement!
Click to expand...
Thank you!

Armydad said:
It's like one big fat bristle, not a bunch of small bristles to make a brush. It's not rigid stiff, flexes easily, but also holds its shape. Great for thin tip line details, and decent for larger area brush drags. You can find them in the makeup isles of most mega marts. Super easy to clean, no thinner needed, just rubbed excess build up off with my fingers.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the tips, I might have to borrow one of my wife's brushes.
 
So, the Back panels are pretty much done. I found a nice green I think works well in different lights. Floquil So. Sylvan Green and about 4 drops of CNW green. i am not sure if the Jayvee Southern Green is the same as the one i used, but the Floquil chart comparison- Tamiya XF-70, did not look right to me. ( since i couldn't find an original Floquil southern green).
Anyways, pictures....
IMG_0695.JPGIMG_0707.JPGIMG_0710.JPG20160715_195834.jpg

Next I am going to finish up the key slot area and mask everything off. I still have to apply a nice satin clear coat as well.. Any one know a good one?
The next area will be the dome and cheeks...



IMG_0709.JPG
 
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I have started on the dome.
Silver 11 areas are masked and 53 gun metal is misted and ready to be masked....
20160722_180639.jpg
.... I don't know why the photo came out so light , but the 53 is much darker in person....
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