Darktrooper Progress Thread 8MAR2011: Getting back to it

Hey Chris, Here are my pics of my Prototype 1 (FG & gray) 34 cm tall and my Prototype 2 (FG over paper) 28 cm tall. Rc bucket is PA gear, FX Stormtrooper for comparison, what size do you think looks best? I am thinking the smaller one since this will be only an armature to lay some bondo on and sculpt (sand) the face details in & overall smooth out everything.

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Hmm...The templates size that I inititially made my pep helmet was based off the height of the FX. I found it to fit me well, proportion wise. I would say use which ever one is best in comparison to your size. The addition of bondo won't or shouldn't make it too much larger, just heavier, really, so I don't think you'd need to worry about that, but that's just my oppionion, it's looking good!

-TC
 
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I actually built one at 30 cm last night, which I am leaning to. I will definitely clay up and sculpt in the detail then take my transition mold. And cast in light FG outer layer then back up with rotocast.
 
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Sounds good man. Either way, your going to have ALOT of room inside. I think the bigger the head you have the better for this kind of helmet. As long as it's not a bobble head lol.

I've been thinking about just casting them in straight slush cast/roto plastic resin. I feel that fiberglass might be a bit heavy, but a light cast might be good. lol I don't seem to have much luck fiberglassing anything, so casting a helmet in it for me might be a miserable failiure rofl
 
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Sounds good man. Either way, your going to have ALOT of room inside. I think the bigger the head you have the better for this kind of helmet. As long as it's not a bobble head lol.

I've been thinking about just casting them in straight slush cast/roto plastic resin. I feel that fiberglass might be a bit heavy, but a light cast might be good. lol I don't seem to have much luck fiberglassing anything, so casting a helmet in it for me might be a miserable failiure rofl




fiberglass should be pretty light Chris, I always felt like any of the 2 part rotoplastics by smoothon made heavier items than those made out of fiberglass


i could be way off though and not be taking into account mods, and range finders and internal stuff.
 
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It can be alot of things, really. I guess the only thing I'd be afraid with when it came to using the plastic resin, is heat warping. I've heard of that happening with some helmets, so I might have to man up and just go with fiberglass.
 
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The answer to that is "it depends". It depends if you use Isotalic resin, lay up resin, etc... some resins actually will never cure, giving the warped looked after a few years. I personally experienced this in laying FG Lamborghini Countach kit cars in the 90's.

But with the micro sphere balls, it will make it light weight and increase the strenghth, but as Combatbaby has said, the rotocast will actually make it heavier. FG outershell allows people use bondo easier on the outer surface.

Shoulders next for bro while sculpting the face, waiting on Fedex for my KLAY.
 
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True that. Smoothing with the clay will really help out though.

In regards to the shoulders, I think I found out how I'm going to suspend the whole thing. Where I see you built the whole underside, I didn't, I found just trying to do it for the smaller ones tricky to get glued in right place.

Sorry for the really bad pic, but you can see how it's sitting on my shoulder. I feel this is sitting in the proper postion, and even if I raise my arm parrellel to the ground, the shoulder bell stays in place, as per reference with the 3D model

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Dude, it's the face of God!

But seriously, you can raise your arm with the shoulder piece not raising up? Or am I misunderstanding that... That sounds very impressive.
 
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Dude, it's the face of God!

But seriously, you can raise your arm with the shoulder piece not raising up? Or am I misunderstanding that... That sounds very impressive.

lol thats exactly what I mean. I might go ahead and take another pic for clarity and from the side so you can see how it's sitting
 
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Hey it looks great. Quick question about the back pack. What did you use to attach the folds from the metal? I mean after the tape that is...
 
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Hey it looks great. Quick question about the back pack. What did you use to attach the folds from the metal? I mean after the tape that is...

Hmm...I'm not exactly sure what you mean? I'm assuming the vents? For that, I just took a metal vent panel from home depot, cut the strips out, and then used a flat piece of styrene in the proper shape, layed the strips over it, bent the ends over the edge of the styrene and used hot glue to hold it down
 
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Well, I'm doing a modification to the helmet sculpt at the moment. The biggest thing that made me dread working on it, is that the empty space that still exist, the walls, despite being fiberglassed, are still very flexible, and trying to actually scuplt anything is just frustrating and requires more work then it should.

So what I just did, was, well apply more of the expanding foam (I know, I know..) I'm doing it it incriments this time. I'm planning on filling out everything this time so that there will be support from all angles, internally.

Should work....

-TC
 
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How many layers of FG did you use? I personally did one coat, then fiber and then two mor coats and it is holding up to dropping, bondo and sanding.

Here what I have so far, needs lots of work.

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I only did about one layer, but I guess that just means I suck at fiberglassing lol

Yours is looking great so far. The only thing that I have to say about it, is that the brow over the eyes appears to thick, but that's just me
 
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Yes, you are right Chris. I always build on the thick side, then after I sculpt in the facial details, which will bump out a little bit, I will bring the brow back. Right now, globs of bondo on there to work with. The brow is not straight if you really look at but that is because I am not in detail mode yet. It is a fun process.

As far as FG-ing, you don't suck. It is a process of doing some things. Like I just figured out how to sculpt with bondo, you glob it on, and then take a cup full of acetone and a paint brush and brush out the high bumps or curlys before it sets up. It is really helps on the sanding time.
 
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Got some more work on the sculpt last night, started to focus on the lower face area. If you compare, I've narrowed both sides of the upside down "U" shape, and have begun sculpting the greeblie in the middle. Unfortunatly, the greeblie detail from my references is only clear enough on the top portion, while everything below that is just "black" and any detail lines are non-existant or noticable. Because of this, I'm forced to interperete the rest of it, so I cannot say that this piece will be accurate. It still needs alot of clean up work though, and I'm thinking about making this a seperate piece until I make the final mold.


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Just a side profile to get a better feel of the shapes

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-TC
 
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Nice transition on the side where the face meets the neck ring.

Thanks! I'm interested to hear your thoughts on the chin "grill" design, on how you would interperete it? I'm trying to decide wether to make it as close as I can or just make it an oversized version of the TK grill..
 
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