Can ANYONE make rangefinder displays
- Thread starter DL44 Blaster
- Start date
bobafett669
Active Hunter
excellent. I want one!
Yeah, my Vortex voice changer adds in this metallic sound to your voice - sounds more like the original Boba. My low cost voice changer does more of a Jango effect now, since they changed all the Fett voices to sound like him.
Back to the RF units, I hope the web page is done soon. I just sent off all the info to the webmaster. Thanks for your patience.
BTW, does anyone have depth measurements of the hollow rangefinder from top lid to bottom?
Back to the RF units, I hope the web page is done soon. I just sent off all the info to the webmaster. Thanks for your patience.
BTW, does anyone have depth measurements of the hollow rangefinder from top lid to bottom?
cal196 said:
I finally have 6 of the new RF LED units ready to go! If you are interested in getting one please email me at shima@hyperdynelabs.com
The cost of the unit is $67 shipped to you via USPS. The package includes
1) assembled and tested RF LED unit
2) 3 energizer silver oxide coin cell batts in blister pack
3) color instructions
Again, the RF LED unit has a built-on tilt switch to turn on automatically when your RF is lowered. The board also have 4 different LED sequencing modes to choose from, and a white backlit LED for illuminating the inside of the viewfinder.
The cost of the unit is $67 shipped to you via USPS. The package includes
1) assembled and tested RF LED unit
2) 3 energizer silver oxide coin cell batts in blister pack
3) color instructions
Again, the RF LED unit has a built-on tilt switch to turn on automatically when your RF is lowered. The board also have 4 different LED sequencing modes to choose from, and a white backlit LED for illuminating the inside of the viewfinder.
DL44 Blaster
Well-Known Hunter
email sent 
Steve
Steve
DL44 Blaster
Well-Known Hunter
great setup,but how do you hide the wires??? Looks kind of cumbersome to conceal.:facepalm
BobaN00b
Active Hunter
The wires all seperate. The first set runs down the stalk (but are usually concealed with chrome tape (that stalk is not chrome yet). There is a small hole in the helmet the wires go into. The rest are taped inside the helmet. Not too cumbersome once inside the helmet. The battery goes just to the right of the back vents. dont even feel in when wearing it.
DL44 Blaster
Well-Known Hunter
Sweet....
DL44 Blaster
Well-Known Hunter
I wish I did....I am waiting for Marrow Sun to get his accurate RF sculpt hollowed out before I get hyperdynes LED kit. The kit is supposed to be a direct drop in for bobamakers RF since I believe his is on hyperdynes website with the LEDkit installed. Either way the red LED's go up,which I'm sure you already know...not making fun. If it's not a perfect fit there's always the dremel route to make more room...I currently own a bobamaker RF and there is still plenty of room to take out of the inside if need be.
Keep us posted....and pics are always a plus
Steve
Keep us posted....and pics are always a plus
Steve
bobafett669
Active Hunter
After a lot of bending of parts I did manage to get this into the Rubies Jango Hollow Range finder. The top still does not fit securely yet though. Need about anothe 1/16" or 1/8".
Now I know you Jango fanatics will say Jango did not have a working rangefinder in the movie but I don't care.
I had to bend the jumpers so I can only use the setting that has the jumpers off and the tilt switch had to be bent out to the side .
Jim, In the future you might try putting the jumpers and mercury switch on the top and shortening the length of the red LED posts a little. I used a dremil on the top of the battery holders to grind them down a little bit to get to the point I am at now.
This helmet will get me through CIII and then I can start work on my new MS2.
http://www.koenigscollectibles.com/Jango/DCP_2010.MOV
http://www.koenigscollectibles.com/Jango/DCP_2012.MOV
Now I know you Jango fanatics will say Jango did not have a working rangefinder in the movie but I don't care.
I had to bend the jumpers so I can only use the setting that has the jumpers off and the tilt switch had to be bent out to the side .
Jim, In the future you might try putting the jumpers and mercury switch on the top and shortening the length of the red LED posts a little. I used a dremil on the top of the battery holders to grind them down a little bit to get to the point I am at now.
This helmet will get me through CIII and then I can start work on my new MS2.
http://www.koenigscollectibles.com/Jango/DCP_2010.MOV
http://www.koenigscollectibles.com/Jango/DCP_2012.MOV
Philip Fett
Hunter
Heh, if your like me and you dont want to hastle with odd batteries or "mercury switches", you can simply put two exposed metal pads at the base of the RF, on on the RF and the other at the bottom where it rests on the ear, when it is down, they touch and the circut is completed (that means it flashes) and by this method you can use AAs or some such more common battery that also wont be added weight in the RF.
Thanks for the feedback. I can certainly put the jumpers on the top next to the batteries. I figured that may give you a bit of more working room on the bottom part - but I wasnt sure. You can also snip the jumpers down some if need be. They are pretty long now and can be shorter. I was going to put the tilt switch up top but then the batteries get in the way. So I will have to think about how to mod that.
I will also make the note about shortening the red LED legs. Should they be just a tad above the batteries?
Thanks again for bearing with me.
Jim
I will also make the note about shortening the red LED legs. Should they be just a tad above the batteries?
Thanks again for bearing with me.
Jim
bobafett669 said:
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