Resculpting my Fett armor

Hi everyone,
My name is Will and I'm new on the boards, but not new to the hobby. I'm guessing most of you don't know me, but some of you may. I live in Albuquerque, NM and have been in the 501st for about 3 years now with a ROTJ Fett. I've long been looking at replacing my armor and finally decided (after a few other sculpting projects that I have done for the mercs) that I can give this a go.
I'm going to be replacing all of my armor and will be chronicling the sculpt of my back plate.
Not a whole lot to report in the way of progress on this right now, but it's a start:

Large WOF template laid out over the wood.


meticulously tracing said template


cutting out the basic shape on the band saw, moments before destroying my 2nd bandsaw blade this year.


I'll be updating this later today hopefully with more pics.

Some more progress pics...in action!

More sanding = more progress

What a mess, and still more of that to come

So I finally broke down and bought a reciprocating saw...worth it's weight in gold and I don't know why I didn't get one sooner. This bad boy saved me about 2 to 3 hours of time right off the bat

That's about it for now..stay tuned!

so is this gonna be a mold or are you making woodarmor? This is very impressive.

cool project! i've found that MDF sands out easier than wood, so i usually go that route. but the overall technique you are using is just like how i make my clone molds.

What exactly is MDF?

Originally Posted by stormtrooperguy

cool project! i've found that MDF sands out easier than wood, so i usually go that route. but the overall technique you are using is just like how i make my clone molds.

Thanks everyone for the replies!
Thorn: This is going to be a wood buck and placed on the vac table
ST guy: Thanks! Love your work, I've actually tried sanding MDF the first time around and it proved very difficult...I'm using basswood right now and it is pretty tough as well
Clone: MDF = Medium Density Fiberboard

Looking like alot of work...Im currently at Kirtland for training been here for 6 months now...not a bad area all in all. Almost through though maybe another month and a half hopefully no more than that.

Well this project is proving to be far more difficult than I originally anticipated (which explains why there are not too many people out there making these available for sale)...not to mention the fact that this piece proved extremely difficult to pull on the table because it is so big, as a matter of fact I wound up having to go out and buy a more powerful shop vac to get the pull I wanted. After fussing around with it for about half a day I was finally able to get a pull out of .093 for a test to see where I was at in the sculpting process:


It looked pretty good till I fitted it to my back and found that the curvature was way off and it was way too flat, it stuck out about 6 inches away from my neck when flush with my lower back...this is what it SHOULD look like

I know that it looks uber curvy, but when I held it up to my back I could see that it matched the curve of my back perfectly, and it matched up pretty close to the Fett references pics that I have been using...unfortunately, that also meant that I had to go back to the sculpting board, so to speak. Here's what I've got so far:



Also did some angle checking on the shoulders..first test shot, just a little bit off

Ahhh much better!

That's about it for now. I still need to do a few more test pulls as well as another one out of 1/8" inch. As of right now, I know I can pull these out of .093 but I really want to get it in 1/8"...I'll keep you all posted

Made some more progress today. Here are some pics:
Slowly taking shape...it's already looking like it should

Added some side covers for a sharper, more uniform look


Then I took a break from sanding and busted out the JP slots:


Doing a dry fit testing to see where they will be placed

HOLY FREAKIN COW! Excellent thread, man. How much time have you logged on this project so far?

Oh man that's a good question brother. I'd have to say at least 10-12 hours into the frontal armor and at least 20 in the backplate so far. ugh yeah yeah I know I work slow lol but I'm still learning how to sculpt and I'm super anal about every little bump and wave and I'm trying to get it all just right

I am absolutely in aw of you guys! Not just the talent, but the stick-to-it-tiveness. Can I find information and How-to threads about doing vacuum molds here on TDH? Great Job, dragon! Keep up the great thread!

I haven't seen any tutorial threads on TDH anywhere, but then again I haven't really looked. I've seen some here and there on the "tube" but most of the ones I saw were not very helpful. Anyway, thanks for the kind words! Here are some more progress pics:
Started sanding the bondo

Had some craters, so I had to go back and fill them in for round 2


Finally finished the sanding!!!Now all nice and baby smooth!...and there was much rejoicing

Just had one final little quick detail to add


After about 45 minutes of claying it up, I was able to pull the master out of .093...perfect pull, no webbing and more rejoicing


Now for the real test: 1/8" inch...aahh victory!

And trimmed out



And just a quick collar match up check...a good fit

That's all for now...

Is the technique called Vacuum Forming?

Originally Posted by OBrotherRacing

Is the technique called Vacuum Forming?

Yes sir, that's the name of it

This is really an awesome project.. Especially tackling the backplate with its curves. I tried making one out of metal once and it looked OK but didn't fit well because I couldn't get the contours of the back right. It looks like you've got those details down. Good luck!

Will excellent job my brother! I'm glad you made it over here, it's a great place to pick up tricks/tips and show-off. Dude it looks great!

Thanks bro! Glad to finally be on here. Got the cod and kidney pieces coming up next.

One of the guys from work said he saw a Boba Fett on Central outside a comic store was that you?

Originally Posted by Fett 4 Real

One of the guys from work said he saw a Boba Fett on Central outside a comic store was that you?

Yep that was me!

So I decided to retool my original mando style molds and added the proper dents and the recessed square in the diamond. I also resized the shoulder bells as well. Finished up the cod piece and added a new kidney plate into the mix. It's starting to take shape:

simply amazing. wow that black plastic is much better , thickness wise. I'm glued to see this project to the end.

Looks great but I wonder about the inside edge of the cod because the original has more of a return toward the inner thigh.
this something you dont care about or did it dig into you so you modded it on purpose?

Thanks Shonuff! Can't wait to see this one till the end as well

Originally Posted by Muad'Dib

Looks great but I wonder about the inside edge of the cod because the original has more of a return toward the inner thigh.
this something you dont care about or did it dig into you so you modded it on purpose?

No, I just made it based on the large sized WOF templates. It lines up exactly with the paper template and I felt it looked pretty dang close so I went with it

Hi everyone, well as usual I'm working double overtime in the shop (one of these days I hope it'll pay off lol) and have decided to move on to the next portion of the Fett style armor that I've been producing. Not a whole lot of progress in the way of pics, but these few were a LOT of work and time involved. These are based exactly off the WOF gaunt templates with some size and curvature references taken from my own gaunts that I purchased a while back. Take a look:
Bottom half shell of the right gaunt


And the bottom half shell of the left gaunt...wound up having to fix the curvature on this one after discovering that it was too large at the wrist


After I got those two knocked out and a master pulled, I moved on to the top half shell of the right gaunt...a HUGE thanks to Alan of WOF for making these available to us. I can't tell you enough how easy his templates have made my life in the last 4 months...they're super accurate too from what I can gather. Coupled with pics of the actual screen armor from the MOM exhibits, I have learned quite a bit about this armor. I had to make this portion of the detailing out of a thin wafer wood (or whatever it's called) for sturdiness to be able to withstand the pressure of the vac pull




So what I did was print out the templates, traced them onto the wood, cut the pieces all out with a numbering system corresponding to the templates, then started assembling taking into account the thickness of the wood (very important). Hot glue was my good friend for this portion of the build

That's where I'm at right now...between filling orders and trying to squeeze in time for a personal life as well as keep up on chores and the like, it has been quite a challenge. I hope to have more progress very soon.

Everything looks great so far!

Thanks bro!
Here's another quick update:
Made some more progress today...not much, but here's some pics



And after two failed attempts at a master pull, I finally got this! (third time's a charm)




For the next step I'll fill it with some Ultracal plaster and tidy up that mold as well as add some details that are not in this pull...then pull a final master. After that I'll have to pull a test piece to see how it matches up with the bottom part. That's all for now kiddies...stay tuned

thats amazing

Thanks CT 1127
Made some more progress. Here's the pics:

Fresh out of the plastic


And all cleaned up (burned out my third dremel this year lol). This part was actually a royal pain in the *BLEEP *and far more time consuming than I wished it to be, but I did finally get it done.
As you can see there's quite a bit of a difference




So I was kind of ancy about seeing this pulled so I got some .030 styrene (more on that later) to do a kind of test pull. It came out ok. I'm not entirely happy with it but at least I got to see how sharp the details were going to come out with a thinner gauge. I'll likely use this one as an inner shell for the master and pull another one from .060 for strength and place this one inside of it for pouring a cast since the thinner stuff has better detail and it will save me time in the future in cleanup after a pour.
I'll probably be pulling these out of 1/8" inch for production since I can't seem to get my hands on any .090 smooth/smooth ABS, but we'll see. Here are the results:




That's it for now. I'll be getting started on the right gaunt next week hopefully

Oh man, this is so exciting. It makes me want to try vacuuforming. Looking good!

Thanks Elusive (love your avatar by the way)
Another progress report for you all:
After cutting out the halves of styrene, I held them together to see how they match up. I was pleasantly surprised to see that either through Alan's design (which is more likely) or through my fumbling, I was actually able to get them to match up end to end (after trimming them of course).The recessed areas all line up, so these guys are ready to go! The next step will be to experiment with the plastic to see which one works best for these gaunts. For now I'll set these aside and get to working on the left gaunt top half.

Getting started on the left gaunt. Here's pics:

I don't think I have ever seen someone sit down and bust out a project like this. It usually involves clay and lots of sculpting. Amazing to watch your approach!

Very cool approach! This is looking great, man. Keep it coming!

Thanks guys!! And a reply from the board owner himself! I've been pretty fortunate to have a job recently with a lot of days off per week that has allowed me to get as far as I have in such a relatively short time.
It's been quite a long road on this and I still have plenty left to do, but I've definitely learned a LOT along the way. Not only just about the armor, but about sculpting and vacforming as well. I have pretty much nil experience with sculpting in clay. However, I have been scratchbuilding models for quite a few years now which has spilled over into my costuming....I figured I would try and see if I could apply those skills on a larger level and with sculpting. So far it seems to be working I think. Being outside the box definitely helps with thinking outside of it and I'm sure to a lot of people my methods are pretty unorthodox.
I'm definitely a far cry below BM, FP, Cruzer and all those other talented dudes, but thanks to them I have learned quite a bit about the process just by looking at pics they have posted here and there. Also Alan of WOF's templates have been a HUGE help in all this...so credit must go to those guys as well for inspiring me to take the plunge. Thanks for everyone who's been watching this thread, and stay tuned!!

I'm glad you like my avatar . I'm really liking your armor. Are you a Robert Venosa or Cynic fan? Both?

I'm not familiar with them but very interested in finding out who they are. Send me a link so I can check them out!

Got a little more progress to share with you all. Same process on the left gaunt as with the other one.





Did some cleanup on the piece with files. I was pretty please with the results. I got some nice sharp corners and edges:

After an initial test pull, I had problems getting the mold out of the plastic. That really wasn't what I needed at this point but what can you do? *:-\ *I'm stubborn and won't quit until I figure it out so I decided to add some wood flares and angles to help out with the severe undercuts that are on this piece. (I'm guessing by looking at the exhibit pics of the original screen used gaunts, that this left gaunt was not vacformed because the edges on it are extremely sharp.... so it's shape is going to pose some problems, but I think I can work them out). I also added some bondo on one side to smooth out the transition between the boxy parts and the round gauntlet curve. I think it looks a lot better and more natural. I also went back and did the same to the right gaunt. Take a look:





And the right gaunt, (still needs to be sanded):




Unfortunately it's been slow going on this the last few weeks because I recently got my old job back from which I was laid off over a year and a half ago. (yay) But the schedule has not been very conducive to sculpting armor (not to mention filling orders...those I have been able to keep up on because I make sure I get those done before moving onto sculpting projects). I'll keep plodding away on this because I am SO close to finishing the clam shells

Got some more progress pics for you all:
Finished up fine tuning the right guant -






And the final master pulled for the right gaunt:


On to the left gaunt -
Some more sanding and fine tuning:




And the final master pulled for the left gaunt -


A test set pulled of the left guant (.030 styrene like the right gaunt)






Just got a few minor things to tweak and these should be good to go. Then I can get started on the left gaunt flame thrower and the accessory piece for the outside of the right gaunt. I talked to my plastic supplier today and he told me I should be getting in the special order plastic trial pieces for me to test out. Hopefully they'll work out well and I get the results I'm looking for, otherwise it'll set this project back a few weeks till I can find a plastic that I'm happy with. I"m also looking at doing a high vac pump for the vac table so that I can get some sharper pulls on these. Stay tuned!

Here's a couple more pics of the test pieces fitted to me.
Left Gaunt -






Right Gaunt -

Those gauntlets looks great!

They gave me an idea for when i start making my fett costume.

So many people on these forums are so helpful with their hints n tips, seem to be a great community.

Originally Posted by Pickendi

Those gauntlets looks great!

They gave me an idea for when i start making my fett costume.

So many people on these forums are so helpful with their hints n tips, seem to be a great community.

Thanks Pickendi! Glad I could be of some help to someone

OK everyone, I've got some more progress pics for you all. I went to the plastic supply place today and picked up the new plastic that I am looking at (here's the pdf file link - http://boltaron.com/films/PDF/1165.pdf) and I have to tell you that this stuff is AWESOME!!!! I love the way it forms and it is baby smooth. I pulled the set below out of .090 and it worked like a dream! The only downside to this plastic is that it gives off some really nasty fumes so I'll need to make sure I start wearing my respirator.
At first I was expecting it to droop the same way as the ABS, and at first it did. Then I left the room and came back only to find that it had actually flattened back out! I was thinking, "What the...?" So naturally I turned up the heat and put it closer to the heating element...still no major droop. I touched it a few times to do a bounce test and it was definitely pretty bouncy. I let it droop some more and then decided to pull it. Needless to say, I'm very happy with the results. This plastic has little to no droop but the flexibility on it is fantastic!...what does that mean to a vacuumforming guy?? Well, the less the droop and more stretch means not only better pulls but also I can now do much deeper, larger pulls on a small table and my webbing woes are all but nil...anyway, enough of that boring stuff. On to the pics: Let me know your thoughts









And here is some texture comparison shots of the haircell .060 and this new boltaron acrylic pvc blend (pulled in .090) It's also much glossier which is nice, but extremely smooth too!


My good bud Jason (Gee2) is gonna be doing a beta test of this set to see how well this new plastic takes paint and adhesives. I'll keep you all posted.

So Will and I have gone back and forth on this project a bit, and being two of only three Fetts' in our garrison we tend to stick together bouncing new ways to better our kits off each other. Last week he asked if I would be available to beta test the gaunts before making them for sale. So the package arrived two days ago;


DSC00106 by darth_who, on Flickr


DSC00107 by darth_who, on Flickr

My first thought, holy ****, no packing material! Then after removing them from the bags I realized, holy **** no packing material, because they don't need any. The gaunts are flexible, yet sturdy and hold their shape extremely well despite not being made from traditional material like fiberglass or resin. BTW Will, love the shipping box...

Next up, trimming and sanding...


DSC00109 by darth_who, on Flickr

So the plastic trims up much like ABS, producing quite a bit of dust, that inevitably sticks to every **** thing it touches...

And after some tack cloth and primer...


DSC00110 by darth_who, on Flickr

The new material takes primer very well filling any small imperfections in the plastic to make a really nice, smooth surface to paint.

Now on to some Krylon aluminum matte and some duplicolor automotive high gloss


DSC00111 by darth_who, on Flickr

Nice and shiny :icon_wink:

After they were dry I took each piece and bent, flexed and twisted them (much more than would be expected of a normal troop), and no cracking, flaking or peeling of the paint or clear coat. Tomorrow I'll start the tedious task of masking (anyone that's worked a Fett knows of my pain) and then on to more paint on Monday (if it doesn't rain, again...). At this point in the testing I can say a few things; Will has done his homework. I've owned three set of gaunts since I started costuming as Boba from low end to high, and these are slowly becoming my favorite based on accuracy of the sculpt, ease of work and overall sturdiness and lack of weight of the product. I'm interested to see how the flamethrowers box and hose details are tackled but I assume they will be as good as the shells.
As I get further into the project I'll post more, but for right now, I'll say well done IOA.

Thanks again for helping me out with this Jason! I really appreciate your input as well because I KNOW you know your Fett! Anyway, those are looking GREAT so far!! I can't wait to see the end product brother!

Alright, so the first few layers of paint worked out great, now for a few more. First some yellow for more weathering/masking, along with some dullcote...


DSC00114 by darth_who, on Flickr

Then some claret wine, that was followed up by some more dullcote and more weathering. Again another flex test all around and still no cracking, peeling, flaking, etc. Up next the adhesive test!


DSC00115 by darth_who, on Flickr

Those are looking awesome brother! I'm taking notes on how to paint mine ;D

My apologies for no pics. on this update, but the camera was totally dead and I didn't feel like waiting for it to charge. So the adhesive test; I used two types just to see what would happen. The first was normal Super Glue gel, it held up fine when trying to remove the magnets (what I'm using for closure on the shells) and it also held up after a few collisions with other magnets. However after the fourth time one of them popped off, and then another started to tear away.
Next up the two part epoxy; I used the quick set (1 min) two part loc-tite stuff. After application I tried the same test as above, same results. But on the collision test I got a 50% survival rate vs. the super glue. So I cheated a bit and hit the spots with 80 grit sandpaper, then re-epoxied and also built some on the outer edge of the magnet instead of just the bottom. This seems to have done the trick because they aren't coming off without some serious effort and possible tool involvement
All in all, the gaunts much like the Fett armor produced by IOA are great pieces; this fact along with the fantastic service makes the new gauntlets a very good purchase choice in my opinion. As I upgrade my kit, I will absolutely use Will’s armor and look forward to any other projects/pieces he chooses to produce, especially if he takes on the Imperial Knight project I've bugged him about.

Thanks again for helping out with this bro. This is some really great info on this new plastic. Definitely making the decision easier with every update

Made some pretty quick progress on the flamethrower last night so I thought I'd share. Here's some pics (I know it looks weird because of the necessary flares for the pulls, but once I trim them out they'll match up forming the flamethrower box). Take a look:






Up next: Right gaunt tube connector housing assembly:

Made a little more progress today...slow going though. These are a little more difficult to pull than I originally anticipated. Here's the pics -

So, they paint up real nice, but how do they hold up for trooping. Well...


IMG00034-20100914-2038 by darth_who, on Flickr

Unfortunately the flamethrower box didn't make it before our troop at EpCon last weekend, but the gaunts performed admirably without it. I banged them around a bit after they were on, no issues whatsoever. The magnet method had me a bit cautious but once they snapped in place they stayed put, even with the weight of my MR blaster bouncing around on them. I had folks knocking into me (as per usual trooping) and again no issues. I even had a guy get his zombie bandages get caught on the darts and try too pull away and the gaunts stayed put.
Now on to finishing the flamethrower and installing it...

Again, I can't say enough good stuff about the IOA product; it finishes and troops well, has more than enough room for electronics (LEDs, helmet servo controls, more LEDs, etc.) and use of magnets for closure worked fantastic. If I had to change anything I would maybe add one more set of magnets per gauntlet, just in case...maybe I'll try it on the ESB gaunts, as soon as Will gets them finished :duim:

That is a SWEET paintjob brother!! I'm gonna have to commission you to do a set for me :P Thanks again for beta testing these for me bro!

Another quick update:
Flamethrower for left gaunt




And with left gaunt for reference


Still working on the right gaunt tube connector housing...stay tuned!

Finally got around to doing the knees. Take a look -




And here are some pics of the pieces assembled




And some shots of the inside



Inner shell knee molds


Kneecap molds



And finally the side parts for the darts, etc.

I think your doing a really good job on this one thing you may want to look at doing is on the knees they should have a beveled edge running around them...making them appear thicker than the plastic theyre made out of. Same on the chest and other armor pieces. But great work non the less

Great catch, thanks for the advice!

what paint did u use for the silver it looks like its not taking to well to the material or the primer? Or did u not smooth out the primer enough? Its got a texture thing going on...

I was simply trying to help you get the best results, maybe try not being so sensitive and take it at face value. If you didnt want people to comment why bother posting the pics up on a public forum? I think your doing a great job with this and would like the same craftsmanship that went into sculpting the armor be seen in the painting of the armor.

OK, fair enough. Guess I might have overreacted a little...I apologize. It's just that I've put a LOT of hours, blood, sweat and tears (not to mention much swearing and throwing of things) in trying to make this a reality. I pride myself on having done all of it from start to finish. My original intention in posting this thread was to show others another approach at making your own armor and to show that anyone can sculpt given they take the time to do it.
As far as the paint goes, so far I sanded the plastic, primed it, sanded the primer, and then hit it with the metallic silver aluminum. The appearance of the texture is just a weird reflection from the way it dried...I can assure you that the finish is completely smooth. I just hit it all with a matte clear coat and it seems to have taken care of that issue. I'll post pics later, thanks

well good hope to see it with some yellow here soon

Anyone got any good links to good paint WIP's that I can check out?? Bueller?? Anyone?? :P

Best thing to do is get as many pictures from whichever armor u like the art of starwars or myth of magic etc...one set and try to mimic that...run to michaels look for liquid frisket or liquid mask...or use toothpaste get your mask down and either spray it green and add the zinc chromate (or bauhaus gold krylon) later with a brush...The yellow on the real thing is topical...depends on your taste...I went layered but its purely personal preference. You'll want to mist gray in certain spots browns and flat black spritz...yeh I said it...where it comes out kinda in a bad way when u dont push the button on the can all the way on certain areas mind you but use the pics and all if your not comfortable get your buddy to help you he seems to be able to paint pretty well, if I was still out there Id help but been gone for 4 months now...missing flying star most of all

Thanks for the advice and tips bro. I'll get cracking on hunting down some of these colors. Went looking for the chromate yellow today, but only found it in the bottle. Still also not sure which green I want to go with yet...leaning towards Testors MM medium green but I need to research it a bit further.
Flying Star is awesome but they sure are proud of their food as it's a bit pricey...really tasty though

if u want rattle cans bauhaus gold from krylon is the yellow to use

That's what I'm now leaning towards. I've seen a few pics of it and am really liking that color as well. Thanks a ton for your help F4R

Cool and the colors are readily available at Homedepot and walmart...home depot for the rusto colors and wally world for the krylon.

Thanks again bro!

The Bauhaus Gold is a good choice. I don't want to post my pics in your thread but if you look on my Helmet WIP thread over on the Headhunter Squad forum you can see the colors. I used it for my generic Mandalorian Protector helmet.

Quick question - When do you all apply the clear dullcoat after finishing the paint job....at the very end AFTER weathering? or right before weathering? Thanks!

I do it at the VERY end...wont hurt in the middle though and at the end

Cool, that's what I was figuring too...plus it would help seal in the weathering so it doesn't rub off

Everything looks great, man! Your attention to precision is amazing.

I've been wanting to try vacuum forming for a while. I just finished my first "table" today. It's pretty crude - basically a piece of MDF with a single hole in the the center for the platen. I attached some weather stripping to the top and built a wooden frame that fits over the weather stripping. To that, I staple the plastic. My questions are - have you ever tried vacuum forming sintra? That's what I used, and it worked okay, but not great. Also, how powerful is your vac? I have a 4.5HP. It doesn't really give me the crispness I'm looking for and it won't pull the steep angles. I'm trying to figure out the best way to tweak it. Stronger vac? Different plastic? I'm wondering if building a box with a pegboard top is a better way. I can see that yours is like that.

Anyways, thanks in advance for any direction you can give me.

John

Thanks bro! I still think I could have made a few improvements on a few things now, looking back on it...but I'll know what to do for the next go around
Your table sounds exactly like one that I made a long time ago...one hole in the middle and some weather stripping all the way around. Gotta start somewhere and I think that should make a great jumping off point for you to cut your teeth on (so to speak).
I personally have never tried forming sintra. I have heard that it could be done but I have my doubts. It seems to me that you just wouldn't be able to pull detail (it might work fine for smooth armor pieces though) not to mention the foam base core in the center, I think that it would just melt??? Maybe someone else who has tried it can chime in.
Anyway, I use just a plain 6.5 horsepower shop vac, for now. I think for the issues you're running into, going with a different plastic would definitely help and you'll want to probably use a different type of platen like pegboard , but it sounds like what you really need is a higher vac source. You should REALLY check out this forum that Stormtrooperguy turned me onto. (www.TK560.com :: Index) There is a section in there devoted to specifically vacuumforming and how to go about making one. There are some SERIOUSLY talented people on there who really know what they're talking about Go check it out..hope that helps!

J.B. - those are some Mando armor projects I did earlier in the year. I'm pretty active over on the mercs boards..if you go over there and look around, you'll see tons of pics of that stuff
Got some more progress for you all.
Here's some pics:











Now just missing some metal knee dart greeblies *cough*Jason*cough,cough*G2*cough*

Moving on to the shoulders...these are still works in progress but here's a preview

Here's some more pics...got the bells knocked out today. Thanks to some guy named Richard for making the stencils for the Jaing skull and background...he did some research and took the time to make an accurate skull


Thanks to Lor's stencils, this skull with white background came out fantastic...it was a shame to have to weather it, but I took a pic to immortalize it for all to see :P



Now weathered





That's all for now

Nice work mate your doing realy well with your whole set up and that back plate is definently up there with the best of em
keepm coming

Thanks brothas from down unda
Well, after doing some more research on this armor I have decided that I'm going to go back and resculpt a few of the pieces to make them more accurate. I like the backplate and all and I think it works well for what it is, but I really want to do this right so I'll be resculpting that here in a few weeks (hopefully) as well as the chest, ab, collar and cod. Stay tuned!

What color do you guys recommend for the gaunts? (ROTJ)

Red
But seriously id go with white,
im watching with intrest _[]_[]_[]_ know wha i mean

Wisconsin Central Maroon for the main color.

Testors » Floquil » Railroad Enamels » Paints » Wisconsin Central Maroon

are you a rattle can or airbrush guy i forget?

I took it as whatcolour should they be pulled in

Thanks for the input guys.
Jinto - you crack me up.
F4R - Either or, I can do both so whatever's clever

Ah no Jinto (sorry didn't catch what you meant the first time I looked at it), I don't think I can even get plastic in that color. Black and white are the two major colors of plastic produced

Use the silver us use on ur armor, the get you flatblack a nice one from Rusto, then claret whine ruto also from home depot, the black needs to go under the CW to get the right color, so silver masking black/claret whine...then misting with black to achieve the right weathering

Cool, thanks for the helpful info, bro. I'll likely go that route.

Finally got the knees finished up. A very big thanks to Jason (Gee2) for knocking out the aluminum parts for me.





Up next: Gaunts

Everything looks great. Cant wait to see everything when your all done.

Thanks Talkren!
I decided to shift my attention from the armor to the gaunts (still got the backplate to do which will need to be resculpted, but in due time)
So I had a set of test pulls from the Kydex lying around and wanted to use those since they came out good. Since these are thicker (.090) I had to shape them a bit after cutting them down to fit my skinny forearms better. I then sanded them and finish trimmed them

I've tried velcro in the past and am not happy with it at all, not to mention that it wears out and it just doesn't hold. In fact, I don't think velcro would work very good for these gaunts at all because they are so stiff. Doing magnets is a bit more time consuming and more expensive but when you're done, that's it. No more fussing and the best part? ...you don't have to worry about them wearing out.
OK so for the first step after sizing and finish trimming I marked my spot where I wanted the magnets to connect. I figured in the corners since that is where the gaunts will want to pull apart the most and will need the most pressure applied.
So, mark your spot and cut out some holes for the magnets to fit through on the BOTTOM shells. In this case, square holes because I'll be using cube magnets. I'm not sure what the strength rating is on these but they're pretty strong. I would recommend around a 5 lb rating. Not too strong, but strong enough for these gaunts. If you have .060 gaunts you may not need magnets that strong because they'll flex easier than .090. Enough talk, take a look

Cut the hole a little larger to allow easy passage for the magnet (but not too big)

Next I matched up my shell halves and marked with a white color pencil on the inside of the upper clam



Next I attach my magnets inside the upper clams where I marked, with some Loctite Plastix Bonder




After that I added some plastic spacers to the inside of the lower clams in order to recess the second magnet in order to allow passage for the initial magnet to slide all the way up. That will allow your clam halves to clamp together more tightly. This method is what I like to refer to as my 'peg and slot' method. The second (lower clam) magnet holds the first (upper clam) magnet into the slot while at the same time the first magnet acts as a peg. Since the magnets are holding themselves together inside the hole, there is no way the pieces can slip or slide one way or another until you take them apart (and even then they still want to go back together). Once they're together that's it. They're easy to put on and take off too. Another great benefit is that you can still take the halves apart and work on them without having to tear anything apart.
This will work on just about anything. (I used this method on my RC for the elbows attaching to the forearms and it worked great as well.)...you just have to think about how to apply it and which side will be the slot and which the peg Take a look below and it might make more sense when you see the pics
Recessed magnet on the lower clam

Upper clam with cube magnet gripping tightly - peg and slot baby!!

This worked out so well and the magnets were strong enough that I only needed 4 peg and slots per gaunt (a total of 16 magnets). I was gonna add another one in the middle on each side but there was no need. These bad boys hold together on their own no problem

After that I decided to just go ahead and get them primed and let them sit over night

These'll be ready to sand tomorrow then I'll shoot them with some metallic silver and a coat of matte finish to seal it in and then it'll be masking nightmare for the next few days after that.
All in all, this whole process only took me about 2 or 3 hours (I broke it up here and there so it's hard to say exactly how long it took to this point). Not bad for the first day's work and it was fun to work on.

I sanded down the primer and hit it with a shot of metallic silver. I let these dry overnight and did a layer of matte finish to seal the silver (thanks for that painting tip Jason!) then start tracing my areas for masking. Almost forgot, here's a few pics of them from underneath, closed up.

Next I got all the shells marked off with a pencil, then masked it all...it was a veritable nightmare and took me about 3 hours of nonstop masking, but in the end it'll be well worth the effort




While that was drying, I moved onto the flamethrower. This will be done with magnets as well in order to make the bottom panel removable in case later on down the road I decide to add electronics

I braced up the interior of the main box in order to strengthen it and to straighten it out a bit more, as well as add bases for the magnets

Next I cut some slots for the magnets and cut a hole in the center brace for future electronics

Magnets added with loctite plastix bonder



Test with the bottom panel held in place

Then painted it up metallic silver and got the paint chipping masking done

Thanks again to F4R for the tip on adding the black layer underneath

I then let that layer dry and did the claret over it

After that it was time to peel off the masking. This took MUCH longer than I originally anticipated (about 2 hours), but I finally got it done...whew! The right gauntlet was particularly labor intensive (cause it is just beat to hell) but I'm extremely pleased with how it turned out.








That's it for now. I have some more detail pieces to paint up and attach as well as switches and stuff like that, so I'm not out of the woods yet.