gonna have to try this out!
gonna have to try this out!
Hey, I want to say that this is a great tutorial, very easy to follow, and I plan to use it on my own bucket very soon. I did have a couple of questions, however, if you'll indulge me.
First, what'd you use to enclose the circuit board inside the helmet? Second, how did you secure the circuit board inside the gauntlet?
I have to figure out where to put the controller on my ESB. The gauntlets might not be an option. I may put them in my pouch somehow, or on the belt.
TD2253, Excellent tutorial. I made the first tutorial years ago and I was surprised to see someone had revamped it and got it stickied. I pop in very rarely just to have a look around and I happened across this and was very happy to see that this idea is still alive and well. I'm impressed with the great detail you went into to bring this to the community. Great work! You all continue to amaze me, keep up the great creativity!
I really must say that this thread has inspired me to start a Boba Fett project. Even if it only ends up an a manni in the prop room next to the others
Thanks for sharring this, really geat stuf.
Great tutorial! When I start on my custom Fett I will definitely use this.
Thanks for the comments! Here is another way to get your servo to move without gutting it but it will be tethered by the wires instead of wireless.
Great tutorial. This one that will definately be used. Am going to try this with my Clone bucket as well to raise and lower the visor. Thanks for the servo formula.
Great tutorial, however up here in Canada, the layout is a bit different for the board and RC car.
As well, what you called a 'green capacitor' is in fact a small Ni-MH battery
I have a question about this servo setup... if one chose to just use a solid-wired DPDT switch, based on what I have seen here, I would simply not connect the yellow "control" wire and run the red to the switch, black to ground... this sound okay?
Hoping not to smell burning servo here :-)
Maybe you should test the DPDT switch on something else like a cheap flash light bulb or LED to test the circuit on. This way you don't risk frying your circuit boards and servo.
I've tried Radio shack and they don't carry the Zip Zaps. Will any old Zip Zap work or does it have to be Radio Shack brand.
UPDATE: Never mind. I got 2 RADIO SHACK zip zaps for 22.00 off Ebay. I also got the recommended Servo and shaft. I'll try this out as soon as things come in.
Last edited by yodakiller1138; Dec 3, 2009 at 12:57 PM.
Where do you get the motherboard post thingies? Radio shack didn't have them.
UPDATE: Again a NEVERMIND. I went to a local guy who repairs computers and he gave me 5 motherboard posts for FREE.
Last edited by yodakiller1138; Dec 5, 2009 at 2:57 PM.
Is there an enclosure you put the boards in?
CLICK HERE for the link to the small enclosure.
I've been having a little trouble getting the solder to stick to the control pads.
By the time I got anything to stick they're brown. Any advice.
Pre-solder the wire and then carefully heat the wire with the solder iron while holding it down on the control pad. Then when both wires are soldered, apply some hot glue on both leads to prevent them from breaking off. I know how you feel, it's the most tricky part of the tutorial.
Well, I got the servo finished and fitted to the stalk and that came out great, but had to buy another Zip Zap. Got a Bumblebee for $10. So the interior guts should look like your PICS and be easier to figure out.The others I did got a little burned trying to solder the bush button leads on , so there was not as good a connection as i wanted. I'll try to do what you suggested. But getting the battery connected , etc. is very simple and everything turns on right. Just have to get the push buttons on correctly and I'm GOOD TO GO.
Well, after taking time off to move into my first home, I'm back to working on my ESB Fett. I managed to get the RC working, but the servo doesn't even come close to being able to lift the RF arm. When lowering it, the servo gets the ball rolling, but it's the weight of the stalk that actually seems to pull it down, when I try the "up" position, no luck, you can hear a faint whining sound from the servo but it appears that it would need to be many times stronger to put the arm in the "up" position.
I have an aluminum stalk, some kind of resin, or molded topper, an acrylic looking window section, and a self contained LED device. There are also 2 small earth magnets holding the window section to the topper. Is it just too much stuff ? What does everyone else
have ? Could it be the batteries ? Its;s killing me that I bought 2 of those servos ( the first one was junk ) and now it won't lift the dang thing. I read previously that it should handle up to 8 pounds, and I know the RF is less than that.
Any suggestions, or recommendations on a better servo ?