You can get the servo HERE and you will also need to get one of THESE for your stalk but make sure you get the Hitec one. I'll post a short tutorial on connecting the stalk to the servo later.
This is one of the most well-planned and documented tutorials I've ever seen on TDH! Whatever you do, don't delete the pics attached to this thread...EVER!
One question...is there any way to reduce the 'kick-back' from the stalk hitting the bottom and top edges of the earpiece seat? I assume it's because the working range of motion for the servo/controller is over 90 degrees.
This is one of the most well-planned and documented tutorials I've ever seen on TDH! Whatever you do, don't delete the pics attached to this thread...EVER!
One question...is there any way to reduce the 'kick-back' from the stalk hitting the bottom and top edges of the earpiece seat? I assume it's because the working range of motion for the servo/controller is over 90 degrees.
Thanks for the comments guys and Batninja! As for the kickback, the working range is actually 180 degrees without the controller board, but if you notice on the video clip, it only did it with the first two cycles but after that it was smoother. That's because I found a stopping point for me to release the switch before it hit the ear guards. I guess it'll take some practice and coordination with the switches to run it smoothly. Maybe I'll look into adding a resistor to the servo to slow it down a bit or something like that. One bit of important advice, make sure your RF topper is very secure and the same goes for the LED unit and lens assembly coz if it does kickback, it might loosen them off.
dont suppose there is a way to do this with a three way toggle instead of push buttons? I used my push buttons for LEDs in the laser cannons on the gaunt LOL darnit!
Awesome project!!! thanks for the hints. I got the rubbies Jango Fett Helmet, do you think I can do this conversion in this especific kind of bucket???
You have done an excellent job with this tutorial. Probably one of the best I've ever seen. If it's ok with you, I'm gonna link this in the Mandalorian Mercs Tutorial Library so that others can find this and use it.
dont suppose there is a way to do this with a three way toggle instead of push buttons? I used my push buttons for LEDs in the laser cannons on the gaunt LOL darnit!
Initially, I tried using a three way toggle w/ center off but the way the transmitter board is set up it kept the motor running. Maybe you can put two more SPST switches on the bottom of your flamethrower assembly for the RF switches.
You have done an excellent job with this tutorial. Probably one of the best I've ever seen. If it's ok with you, I'm gonna link this in the Mandalorian Mercs Tutorial Library so that others can find this and use it.
Outstanding tutorial! I have a small non zip zaps RC, that I was going to try and use and maybe make a tutorial, but don't think I would be able to top this one. Great job bro
I'm planning on attaching the battery pack and the receiver board next to the servo itself. I am waiting for a shipment of a plastic box enclosure with less than an inch side profile but big enough to house the receiver board for protection.
Outstanding tutorial! I have a small non zip zaps RC, that I was going to try and use and maybe make a tutorial, but don't think I would be able to top this one. Great job bro
Have you thought about maybe using some resistors and plugging the receiver board into a 9v? Would last much much longer then 4 volts, and take up less space.
You should be able to get by with 1 10k ohm resister.