I want to start this off by saying that I cannot say enough good things about Darrell and the blaster itself. He's a fantastic guy, a great vendor, and after this whole experience, someone I definitely call a good friend. He's just such a nice guy....and his work is outstanding.
So here's the pictures I remembered to take as I worked on the blaster I purchased from him.
So, basically what i did was.....
I used the Krylon Fusion for plastic paint. It's a dark metallic textured paint that gives it a carbon-fiber look to it. I forgot to take progress pics so forgive me, but I was just honestly so excited in how it was coming, and well, I'm a bit lazy when it comes to remembering progress pics! lol
So after a base coat of the krylon, I sealed it with Krylon Acrylic Crystal Clear with a Satin finish to protect the base layer.
Then I grabbed my Gamesworkshop Citadel paints that I have used to about 23 years worth of painting Warhammer miniatures.
For this job I used Mithril Silver and Snakebite Leather and the technique used is called "drybrushing". Drybrushing is when you basically gob the paint onto a brush, grab some paper towel, and wipe off the paint to the point where you can barely see any paint on the brush at all. Then, you drag the brush over the area you want to highlight, and the raised surfaces (especially in a textured paint) will be the only parts that pick up the color, resulting in a raised, highlighted look. For the blaster, the highlight colors are meant to show damage and wear, so it works perfectly!
I began with drybrushing light bits of Mithril Silver in areas where you'd see the most "chrome" on a blaster. The nozzle, the scope edges, the trigger.
Then after satisfied with the initial pass, I watered down some Snakebite Leather heavily, wiped most off into a paper towel again, and began drybrushing that as well.
In the area on the barrel exposed in the center of the T-Track, I used heavily watered down snakebite leather just where the track meets the barrel, lightly working towards the center. Then I mixed the Mithril silver with snakebite leather, and drybrushed just the center of the barrel, blending towards the outside where the track meets the barrel but taking care not to go over the previously painted rust effect. Then as an extra highlight, I drybrushed JUST the center of the barrel with pure mithril silver. This layered and blended effect gives the barrel a chome look with rusted edges and I think it REALLY offsets the blaster and gives it a realistic look to it.
The rest of the blaster I kept using a mix of snakebite leather and mithril silver, making sure to drybrush lightly in what would be the less contacted parts, and heavily in the areas where normal wear would occur. Because the paint itself dries very fast, and drybrushing even faster, I kept making sure to hold the blaster in the same ways I plan to normally, looking at where my hands would rest, my forearms would rest, basically anywhere that gets touched while holding it, and drybrushing as needed. The butt of the stock I made sure to weather heavy in the center, light on the edges, one side of it more than another as shown in the pictures, and the handle of the blaster itself of course.
When it was all done how I liked it, I went ahead and sealed it again with the Krylon Acrylic Crystal Clear Satin finish seal.
Again, I am compelled to say that I can't say enough good things about Darrell and the blaster.
If anyone has any questions, please don't hesitate to ask. It's no helmet or armor paintup by some of the insanely talented artists here, but I'm really happy with how it came out and drybrushing, inking, highlighting, blending and weathering with Citadel paints is something I'm very confident in.
J
So here's the pictures I remembered to take as I worked on the blaster I purchased from him.
So, basically what i did was.....
I used the Krylon Fusion for plastic paint. It's a dark metallic textured paint that gives it a carbon-fiber look to it. I forgot to take progress pics so forgive me, but I was just honestly so excited in how it was coming, and well, I'm a bit lazy when it comes to remembering progress pics! lol
So after a base coat of the krylon, I sealed it with Krylon Acrylic Crystal Clear with a Satin finish to protect the base layer.
Then I grabbed my Gamesworkshop Citadel paints that I have used to about 23 years worth of painting Warhammer miniatures.
For this job I used Mithril Silver and Snakebite Leather and the technique used is called "drybrushing". Drybrushing is when you basically gob the paint onto a brush, grab some paper towel, and wipe off the paint to the point where you can barely see any paint on the brush at all. Then, you drag the brush over the area you want to highlight, and the raised surfaces (especially in a textured paint) will be the only parts that pick up the color, resulting in a raised, highlighted look. For the blaster, the highlight colors are meant to show damage and wear, so it works perfectly!
I began with drybrushing light bits of Mithril Silver in areas where you'd see the most "chrome" on a blaster. The nozzle, the scope edges, the trigger.
Then after satisfied with the initial pass, I watered down some Snakebite Leather heavily, wiped most off into a paper towel again, and began drybrushing that as well.
In the area on the barrel exposed in the center of the T-Track, I used heavily watered down snakebite leather just where the track meets the barrel, lightly working towards the center. Then I mixed the Mithril silver with snakebite leather, and drybrushed just the center of the barrel, blending towards the outside where the track meets the barrel but taking care not to go over the previously painted rust effect. Then as an extra highlight, I drybrushed JUST the center of the barrel with pure mithril silver. This layered and blended effect gives the barrel a chome look with rusted edges and I think it REALLY offsets the blaster and gives it a realistic look to it.
The rest of the blaster I kept using a mix of snakebite leather and mithril silver, making sure to drybrush lightly in what would be the less contacted parts, and heavily in the areas where normal wear would occur. Because the paint itself dries very fast, and drybrushing even faster, I kept making sure to hold the blaster in the same ways I plan to normally, looking at where my hands would rest, my forearms would rest, basically anywhere that gets touched while holding it, and drybrushing as needed. The butt of the stock I made sure to weather heavy in the center, light on the edges, one side of it more than another as shown in the pictures, and the handle of the blaster itself of course.
When it was all done how I liked it, I went ahead and sealed it again with the Krylon Acrylic Crystal Clear Satin finish seal.
Again, I am compelled to say that I can't say enough good things about Darrell and the blaster.
If anyone has any questions, please don't hesitate to ask. It's no helmet or armor paintup by some of the insanely talented artists here, but I'm really happy with how it came out and drybrushing, inking, highlighting, blending and weathering with Citadel paints is something I'm very confident in.
J