What is the issue?

Ok, another question.

What type of clear coat should I be using to hold the silver layer? Would an enamel clear coat be best?

And on that subject, a friend of mine wants me not to sand down the work I've done on the dome and put a clear coat on top of the green before moving on. Basically, the dome has this on it: (from inside to out)

-primer
-rustoleum silver
-soviet green (acrylic)
-my friend is suggesting a clear coat here before moving on because we're afraid of the tape pulling it up. But even if I clear coat it, wouldn't tape still pull it up if it's the silver that's unstable?

And for that matter, how do I "mask" areas off without tape?
 
Mason, I tried to clear coat my Rustoleum aluminum and then after it completely dried, I spray tested a spot with some Krylon Italian Olive Green. The concentrated area with the italian olive green was solid but around the over-spray, the paint peeled off with the clear coat. So, from that observation, make sure you evenly apply your clear coat with enough coverage for a strong adhesion...I think this is were I failed.

DSCN1159.jpg
 
Mason,

I can honestly say that I do not ever have any more problems with paint since I started clear coating with Krylon Matte Finish.

I use it with all brands of rattle cans, PS acrylics and Floquil enamels.

I spray a coat of paint, let dry for 30-40 minutes and then apply the Matte Finish, its dries in less than 20 minutes and its ready for the next color. If your paint is not drying within an hours time you are spraying it too thick.
This technique has worked flawless.

The only masking methods I use are blue painters tape and Liquid mask. I apply the Matte Finish before I start removing any mask.
 
The matt finish is good, like the guys say, but it also means more work for you - considering how many layers of colour there are on Fett's noggin. If you're using Testor's paint for the colors (or similar kinds of paint) then maybe just use Testor's silver spray for your base. I went through the same "learning experience" with my Fett lid. It's currently sitting aside waiting for a fresh new start on the paint job because I used a spray silver for the base, and tried to paint it with acrylics. The adhesion is OK, but I can tell it will not last for very long before it starts to get more scratched off areas than it should have.
 
TAPE

matte finish
acrylic green
rustoleum silver (the layer with the powdery issue)
primer

Will the tape still pull off the green layer with the layers in this order? If it won't, it will allow me to save sanding time.

I just feel like, if the silver is the unstable layer, everything on top of it could be pulled off with tape. A buddy of mine insists this isn't the case, and that I'll be fine. I think I just need to sand it all down and start fresh.

And if memory serves, Krylon Clear coat is an acrylic paint, wouldn't it pull right off the silver layer just like my green acrylic is now?
 
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another thing to consider is that most rattlecans have warnings like "recoat within 60 minutes or after 24 hours" or similar. that could also be an issue.

when i paint, i tend to go REALLY fast... i lay down the next color as soon as the first is dry enough that i can coat it in latex. maybe that has something to do with it? maybe i'm getting the colors mixed while it's still curing, and that lets them bond better?
 
Just coat the heck out of the area for the stripes with a clear coat. Let it dry very well. MAsk with light tack painters tape (purple I think). After those are done peel very carefully then mask everything else with a 3x5 card in your hand. If it makes you feel any better the paint actually peeld vbelow the stripes on the ESB and they just painted over it. I don't have pic handy but go check it.
 
Had the same problem in the past. It's the dust that is left by the paint. Ive always used some sandpaper to take the dust off.
 
Masking fluid should work better than tape. You also have more control over where it goes and the shape it takes and stuff.
 
I don't like the masking fluid myself. When I painted my helmet the first time, it ripped the paint off in sheets and in some cases, took the base coat with it! I used Mustard instead. It works the same as the Masking Fluid and it was easy to remove as well.

Just my opinion... due to a bad expirence with the masking fluid.
 
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