WARNING GOOP + FP (ABS Plastic/sintra) = melting

gbeef

Hunter
Just to let everyone know dont use GOOP on sintra or ABS armor. It melts it, i used goop on my on my knee armor to renforce them and it melted them wear the goop was applied... ACK! ...!! i just painted them!.

Bad thing is i have to wait to FP to come back.. unless some has a set to sell... or does anyone know of a substance that can bond to abs and with not crack if bent? I would like to try refilling and building up the sides
 
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Simon Fett

Active Hunter
Same thing happened to me today.... I changed maker for my sintra and had to glue 2 pieces together so I used Goop... the whole thing was warped when I came back.
 

TD2253

Active Hunter
Sorry to hear about your Goop mishap Jackson and Simon Fett. I am using an industrial strength adhesive called Welder and it dries clear overnight and is safe to use on plastics and PVC pipes.
 

Mike M.

Well-Known Hunter
Community Staff
i used goop on my fp v2 with no ill affects. used it to glue all the snaps into place on the inside. strange... what version armor do you have? it might be a v3 thing if he changed plastic supplier.
 

Jangos kid

Well-Known Hunter
I use 2 part epoxy called plastic weld on all my stuff these days...Fiberblass, sintra, abs...works well on just about anything. Its the stuff you get at Walmart. It works incredibly well, and cures fairly fast. Never had a problem with it, & you can put it on as thick as you want. Good stuff,
D
 

Wolfie

Hunter
I use 2 part epoxy called plastic weld on all my stuff these days...Fiberblass, sintra, abs...works well on just about anything. Its the stuff you get at Walmart. It works incredibly well, and cures fairly fast. Never had a problem with it, & you can put it on as thick as you want. Good stuff,
D
lol, Florida Garrison fully endorses the use of Plasi-weld LOL ;)

good stuff indeed.

If gotten to where I use a dab of that in the middle, and use a bit of superglue around the edge so the super glue hold the part down while the plasti-weld has time to cure.
 
Plasi-weld will melt plastic as well.

You pretty much have to be careful with most/all glues for plastics. The reaction that causes the bond has heat. The bond is actually created by chemically melting plastic to plastic. If you use too much it will warp/damage the outside surface of the plastic. The key is to get the right amount for a good bond, but not damage the plastic. I use all sorts of glues when building TK armor, so I've tried a lot of different stuff. I prefer CA with a little kicker (makes a nice quick bond). It does get hot, so be careful
 
Try mixing ABS shaving with acetone. The acetone will over a short period of time melt the ABS and the you're left with a thick paste after the acetone begins to evaporate. Once its gets very thick, your working time is only a few minutes before it starts to set. Once it is cured, about 24 hrs, voila........the ABS paste has bonded with the other ABS. it is flexibale and just as durable as the other ABS. I used this method for filling the seams on my clone armor.

Got the idea after researching an alternative to bondo and found a forum on tricking out cars. The guys on the forum used this stuff to scratch build custom plates around their stereos and rebuild damaged plastic console parts etc. Their recipe called for MEK instead of acetone. I switched to acetone because it doesn't evaporate as quickly and the smell is no where near as noxious.

Hope that helps. If you try it, let mw know how it works for you.
 

LadySewforus

Active Hunter
Try mixing ABS shaving with acetone. The acetone will over a short period of time melt the ABS and the you're left with a thick paste after the acetone begins to evaporate. Once its gets very thick, your working time is only a few minutes before it starts to set. Once it is cured, about 24 hrs, voila........the ABS paste has bonded with the other ABS. it is flexibale and just as durable as the other ABS. I used this method for filling the seams on my clone armor.

Got the idea after researching an alternative to bondo and found a forum on tricking out cars. The guys on the forum used this stuff to scratch build custom plates around their stereos and rebuild damaged plastic console parts etc. Their recipe called for MEK instead of acetone. I switched to acetone because it doesn't evaporate as quickly and the smell is no where near as noxious.

Hope that helps. If you try it, let mw know how it works for you.

What about toxic fumes, do you think it is safe? Are you still "the same" as you were before you mixed this cocktail of death? LOL

It truly sounds like a disaster in the making if not handled very carefully.
 
What about toxic fumes, do you think it is safe? Are you still "the same" as you were before you mixed this cocktail of death? LOL

It truly sounds like a disaster in the making if not handled very carefully.
Still the same ma'am (twitch twitch twitch).........The odor was the main reason for switching to acetone over MEK. MEK has a VERY noxious odor......acetone, not so much plus acetone increases the working time you have with the paste.
 

webchief

Well-Known Hunter
Wow, that's an interesting option using the plastic flakes. I've never heard of that way before. Cool!
 
Wow, that's an interesting option using the plastic flakes. I've never heard of that way before. Cool!
I used this when assembling my clone armor for that seamless look and it worked very well. The joints remained flexible so I had no worries about cracking like I would with bondo. I'd definitley experiment on some scrap ASB before diving in and using it on your armor though.
 

Ribdo

Hunter
A friend of mine told me to use this website that gives you a list of stuff for sticking just about anything to well...anything, it's http://www.thistothat.com/ you can use it to find out what adhesives to use on any material.
 
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