Testors Dullcote Dries Glossy

[DeathProof]

Hey everyone!

I'm in the process of painting a Hasbro DL44 for a friend of mine as a gift. I'm using pretty basic paints :

flat matte black
krylon aluminum
mix of raw umber and burnt sienna for the handle
krylon clear gloss to seal
testors dullcote to kill the gloss

Whats happening is that after I seal, the dullcote does not knock out the gloss.

I experienced the same thing on my EE3. It helped, but not completely. Compared to the flat black, it's still quite glossy.

Any tips on getting rid of the gloss? Am I using this product right? I've read it can be pretty tricky.

 

[Mr Fett]

Normally Testors Dullcote is used AS the sealing layer. No need to use Krylon Clear Gloss and then Dullcote. Just the Dullcote if you don't want a shiny surface.

 

[DeathProof]

I was under the impression dullcote wasn't as strong a sealant or paint protector as the gloss so they needed both.

....so what do I do now? Keep hitting it again with more coats?

 

[BobaFiend]

Dullcoat it a lacquer. It's one of the hardest curing, most durable topcoats in a can. It's even harder than an enamel. You should have no problem sealing with it. I would do a few more light coats of the dullcoat. I've never come across anything it can't knock down flat.

And just a dumb question, but are you sure you have dullcoat and not a glosscoat can?

 

[Matty Matt]

You are doing everything ok. It's fine to use a gloss coat for protection and then knock it down with dullcote. Is this the same can you're having trouble with? Have you tried another can? What temperature are you painting at?

 

[woodman]

Are you thoroughly shaking the can first?

 

[DeathProof]

Thanks guys

Bobafiend : yeah it's the dullcote I always double checked and even purposely separated the two. They look very similar!

Matt : Yes, it's the same can. I'm in my mud room so it's about 12 degrees Celsius or so.

Woody : I've shaken in for a good minute but I have a feeling I gotta give it more.

I'll put on some more light coats after shaking it like crazy. I'll also try putting it in warm water for 15 min prior (heard this works apparently)

I'll post pics when I can

 

[Fett 4 Real]

Ive never glossed anthing before dullcoating...so dont know what the effect would be but sounds like a bad idea to me

 

[Matty Matt]

DeathProof, that's a little cold. It may be as simple as that. Temperature can really screw with this stuff.

Dullcote over a clear gloss shouldn't be any different than putting it over a glossy paint, which we do all the time. But you can always run into problems with multiple layers of different types of paint. Incompatible brands, not allowing layers to cure, etc. I used Dullcote on something when it was really humid and it dried white from all the moisture in the air.

 

[DeathProof]

Thanks Matt. I'll give it another shot today indoors. Don't really have a proper workspace so to the bathroom it is! Every other room in my house has the windows taped for insulation (the house is over 100 years old), so I need some ventilation

If it's a bad idea, I got it right from this forum. Can't recall the paint up threads but I've seen it a few times where people gloss coat to protect and then dullcote to matte finish. If this doesn't work out though, I may think twice about it and just stick with a few coats of the dullcote.

Luckily I'm learning this early before I start working on my armor and other hard pieces.

 

[Fett 4 Real]

Make sure your paint is warm...what I do is put it in a large cup of HOT water with the mater running to get it nice and warm before spraying also...gives better pressure and more even spray.

 

[LongHammer]

I'm with these guys. Warm it up and give a few more coats. I also have not used a gloss to seal it. I use humbrol matte coat, and it seems to be bulletproof after a few coats.


-Kevin

 

[superjedi]

Agree with the previous advice, with this addition:
Don't put on heavy coats. Light coats only!
Lacquer can "melt" the paint beneath if applied too heavily at once. . . ask me how I know.

 

[redkraytdragon]

Whenever I absolutely HAVE to paint in the winter, I'll warm up the paint AND the armor...never had any issues doing it that way and I even painted in the cold garage when they were still warm, worked great!

 

[DeathProof]

Update...

While I look now at the doopydoos that are out there that look like they have a lot more to them...the hasbro to me is fine for my buddy that's just getting into things...

After the matte black coat...which looks good

(I need a new workstation. Partner got a bit cheesed that I used our kitchen table....*gasp*)


So, after warming my dullcote in a hot bath, singing to it, and then vigorously shaking for a solid 3 minutes...

Closer to the light, you can see it still has a sheen to it. At least it's not as bad....I'd say it's gone from a glossy to a semi-gloss....

Now, I know it should still reflect light...but it's at the amount that it is...I don't think it's fully matte. I think my conclusion for my armor will be to use a matte finish to seal, like the Krylon matte (a few coats), and then the dullcote and see how that works.



Was my first stab at a Han Solo blaster. Didn't really follow accurate colouring or damage, but had fun doing it!

I now need to go for a long walk after being exposed to dullcote fumes....

 

[Bothan]

I have had the "frosting" effect happen to me too. I was using a krylon matte sealer on a cool autumn day with high humidity. It almost ruined the layered paint job on my cod, kidney, and backplate. A very rapid wipe down with paint thinner (go gently) on a lint free rag saved the day. After waiting for a nice warm day and allowing all of the paint underneath of the intended clear coat to cure, I had zero problems.

 

[Bothan]

By the way, I like the blaster. Nice drybrushing.