Superjedi's FPH2 for Nemesis

Once again, you have outdone yourself great man. Not sure if I've asked you this before, but how do you go about those 'grease stains?' In my opinion, you just seem to nail those down better than anybody..
 
Once again, thanks so much! I hope Nemesis enjoys it in person. :)

To answer a couple of your questions:
Heller, I do use flat acrylics. I use a couple of different brands, Polly Scale, Testors Model Master, and Tamiya, and
they don't all have the same degree of flatness, but at the end of the project I apply a couple of misted coats of
Testors dullcoat, so that tends to even things out without killing the shine of the silver.

Jayvee. . . ah the grease stains! I've tried several different methods to get that "greasy" look. I've tried various paints,
pastel powders, different shades of inks, and none of them quite gave me the effect I was after. Not sure if I've really
addressed this before in other paint-up threads, but since you asked so nicely I'll tell you my "secret recipe."

This is only for Jayvee, so everyone else cover your eyes!!!
;)

I use crayons. Plain ol' Crayola crayons. I begin by LIGHTLY scribbling on some yellow, Dandelion Yellow to be precise,
in the area I want to stain. I can't stress enough how lightly I apply this. I'm using next to no pressure at all so the color
builds up very slowly until I can just see the yellow. Then, I go back LIGHTLY over the same area with a brown crayon.
The official name of this one is, wait for it. . . Brown. I scribble it on until I can see that it's turned a nice oily brown shade,
then I use my finger to rub over it, blending it in.

If I want the area to be darker (more stained) I repeat the process. For some of the extra dark stains, I apply the brown
with a bit more pressure, always rubbing over it afterwards to smooth it out.

This method may sound a little bizarre, but after clearcoating, the stains really look like oily splotches. Pretty high-tech, eh?

Finally, just to show how different things can look under various lighting conditions, here are a few more pics. The set I took
yesterday was under pretty dim indirect light through my windows. It was a stormy day yesterday. Today, the sun is shining
and I got some brighter light in my living room.

IMG_2113_zpsuszq4wkf.jpg


IMG_2114_zpscxxlgzex.jpg


The back again:

IMG_2108_zpslz6pdmez.jpg


IMG_2110_zpsfj7uxnas.jpg


So there you have it! I'll disassemble the range finder for shipping, and the helmet will depart on Monday.
I'll be sad to see it go, but if Nemesis gets it signed by J. B. that will be an awesome addition to his collection! :)
 
Thanks for that champion. That's quite a genius way of applying the grease stains... As I said, I honestly believe you nail them better than anyone, so it's obviously a great method . Really appreciate you taking the time to share :)
 
Well.. The helmet arrived safely and I can't express into words how happy I am with it. It's amazing! Thank you Eric. It arrived just in time to take with me to meet Jeremy. He is such cool guy! He thought the helmet looked so good, he signed it for nothing! He also thanked the TDH for everything.
NaJugfZ.jpg

8eVDUNj.jpg
 
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Hi Malkavian,
I paint topically, so on the dome for example, the silver as well as the gray are hand painted over the green base coat.
Same with the mandibles. The detailed damaged is painted over the red base coat.
 
UPDATE: DAY 4

Making good progress. :) Got the rear panels masked off and airbrushed the blue-green shade. As usual, I used my
Winsor & Newton masking fluid to block out the shapes. I finally had to buy a new bottle of W & N after about 5 years!
My original bottle just got too thick to be very usable.

After unmasking, I pulled up some reference pics and used a small detail brush to tweak the edges between the beige
and blue-green. I do this on all my paint ups. The masking fluid can be coaxed into some pretty intricate small shapes,
but I'm never quite 100% satisfied with all of the shapes. Here are a couple of pics.

View attachment 137774

On the left panel (above) there are some small details that I don't even bother masking off when I spray the blue-green.
I just do them topically afterwards during the tweaking stage. That's one advantage of painting in the "Layeropical" method. :)

View attachment 137775

On both the left and right panels, I go back with some of the blue-green mix and add some patches and shading using a small brush.
As I've mentioned previously, it's the same blue-green mix that I shoot through the airbrush, but when it's applied with a brush, it comes
out denser, and appears slightly darker.

This sets me up to begin doing the gray and silver detailing on the back panels, so that'll be coming up next!
Sorry to Butt in how much and where do I get one from?
 
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