Quick Westar holster tutorial for Jango Fett

evallded

New Hunter
So I am new to the site here. but not completely new to prop building. I bought a full Jango setup from a member here. Some of it was not really what I was looking for (not as accurate as I was led to believe). So I set out this week to build a, from scratch, Holster set. Now there may very well be better ways to do this and I have never worked with leather before so bare with me and take this as a general guide, not a "how to" however I found this very easy to do and am positive that with about 60.00 give or take and a little time you can make your own as well.

So tools you will need

Leather punch $12.00 at fabric store
Leather Awl 16.00 at fabric store
some small nails
Hammer
A few razor blades
and a few optional tools as well depending on how you do it

Materials I used

6' strip of 1" leather $8.00
6' strip of 1/2" leather $5.00
a couple scraps of I believe 8# leather app $12.00
Leather dye $7.95
Wax Thread $2.35
6 Sam browne studs $2.39 (the metal studs that hold the belt adjustments)
A handful of chicago screws (1/4 I believe) $2.89

OK so I figured out which pieces of leather I was going to use for the tops and cut it into pieces that were a few inches larger on each side and on the bottom. I put them both in the sink full of warm water, and let them soak for about 30 minutes, give or take depending on how thick your leather is. You will want to use a less treated leather like a saddle leather. you will be able to tell by feeling it, how soft it has gotten.

20130930_175606_zpsb4d9b6e7.jpg


While those were soaking I pulled out an old piece of wood that I could nail my leather down to. Now I used a couple resin Westars because they are full length. It would be a good idea to have a wood block to use as your template instead of the actual gun. But here is how I got around that. The idea is that if you pull the leather tight over the Pistol it may (in my theory) be too tight to remove from the holster easily. So what I did was wrap the pistol in bubble wrap, just a couple layers to bulk it out a little bit.

20130930_175613_zps7ca69ed0.jpg


OKay with my board ready, my nails and hammers out and my pistols in hand we are ready to form.

20130930_175734_zpseb26ff7a.jpg


My pictures jump ahead a little as I am terrible as taking pictures during the work. But this gives you a great idea of how this goes. Lay your leather out over your gun making sure you have enough on all sides. At this point the leather is really easy to work with and very malleable.

Start with a nail in the very bottom and work your way around one side of the pistol back up towards the top. You want to pull it a little tight but not too tight and just playing with it will give you a good idea of where you need the nails.
As you get one side done, run something semi pointy but not sharp down the same side to create the line where your leather will bend I used the back of a spoon handle because it was close.

kju_zps180e47db.jpg


With the line made in the side of the leather and nails on one side as well it will give you a good idea on if you are pulling it too tight on the other side, because it will lift your line you made. So once again just play with it a bit and feel it out. Finish working your way up the other side with the nails and make your other line. Move around some nails or add some as needed. Once it is sitting how you want it, leave it be.

You will want to come by every now and then, and remake the mark down the side, you want to keep it nice and sharp. I just ran my spoon handle down the side of it every time I walked by for the first couple hours.

I gave mine about 20 hours to dry. then pull your nails and you can see that they hold their shape very well!

20131001_172353_zpsee1578cc.jpg

20131001_172414_zpsffa072cc.jpg

20131001_172534_zps88395fbb.jpg


From here its all the easy stuff. Just trim down the sides a bit. I still left a little extra on mine, and then matched up the fronts with what I wanted to use for the backs. I used Some Contact cement to attach the front and backs together. Now in the screen used holsters they appear to have just 1 stitch on the top, on each side, and a couple at the very bottom. However I am ok with having stitching around mine and gaining the strength achieved by doing so. So I went ahead and used my leather awl to punch holes all the way around. and stitched them up with the wax thread.

20131001_204317_zps37de7f2d.jpg


From here just finish trimming down the sides to where you want them and using a dremel with a sand paper wheel will burn the edges and match up any imperfections, it looks great! However.........It will also make your house smell like burning flesh, I cant say how disgusting this really was haha.

20131001_215458_zps3c778e4b.jpg


And that is it for the holsters. I will stain these up later when I get done with the straps. More to come then.

20130930_175606.jpg
 
Last edited by a moderator:

T0R1C

New Hunter
Any more step by steps for the rest of the holster build? I’m abojt to start with the straps and found your holster build guide fantastic. Thanks!



So I am new to the site here. but not completely new to prop building. I bought a full Jango setup from a member here. Some of it was not really what I was looking for (not as accurate as I was led to believe). So I set out this week to build a, from scratch, Holster set. Now there may very well be better ways to do this and I have never worked with leather before so bare with me and take this as a general guide, not a "how to" however I found this very easy to do and am positive that with about 60.00 give or take and a little time you can make your own as well.

So tools you will need

Leather punch $12.00 at fabric store
Leather Awl 16.00 at fabric store
some small nails
Hammer
A few razor blades
and a few optional tools as well depending on how you do it

Materials I used

6' strip of 1" leather $8.00
6' strip of 1/2" leather $5.00
a couple scraps of I believe 8# leather app $12.00
Leather dye $7.95
Wax Thread $2.35
6 Sam browne studs $2.39 (the metal studs that hold the belt adjustments)
A handful of chicago screws (1/4 I believe) $2.89

OK so I figured out which pieces of leather I was going to use for the tops and cut it into pieces that were a few inches larger on each side and on the bottom. I put them both in the sink full of warm water, and let them soak for about 30 minutes, give or take depending on how thick your leather is. You will want to use a less treated leather like a saddle leather. you will be able to tell by feeling it, how soft it has gotten.

View attachment 132824

While those were soaking I pulled out an old piece of wood that I could nail my leather down to. Now I used a couple resin Westars because they are full length. It would be a good idea to have a wood block to use as your template instead of the actual gun. But here is how I got around that. The idea is that if you pull the leather tight over the Pistol it may (in my theory) be too tight to remove from the holster easily. So what I did was wrap the pistol in bubble wrap, just a couple layers to bulk it out a little bit.

View attachment 132825

OKay with my board ready, my nails and hammers out and my pistols in hand we are ready to form.

View attachment 132826

My pictures jump ahead a little as I am terrible as taking pictures during the work. But this gives you a great idea of how this goes. Lay your leather out over your gun making sure you have enough on all sides. At this point the leather is really easy to work with and very malleable.

Start with a nail in the very bottom and work your way around one side of the pistol back up towards the top. You want to pull it a little tight but not too tight and just playing with it will give you a good idea of where you need the nails.
As you get one side done, run something semi pointy but not sharp down the same side to create the line where your leather will bend I used the back of a spoon handle because it was close.

View attachment 132827

With the line made in the side of the leather and nails on one side as well it will give you a good idea on if you are pulling it too tight on the other side, because it will lift your line you made. So once again just play with it a bit and feel it out. Finish working your way up the other side with the nails and make your other line. Move around some nails or add some as needed. Once it is sitting how you want it, leave it be.

You will want to come by every now and then, and remake the mark down the side, you want to keep it nice and sharp. I just ran my spoon handle down the side of it every time I walked by for the first couple hours.

I gave mine about 20 hours to dry. then pull your nails and you can see that they hold their shape very well!

View attachment 132828
View attachment 132829
View attachment 132830

From here its all the easy stuff. Just trim down the sides a bit. I still left a little extra on mine, and then matched up the fronts with what I wanted to use for the backs. I used Some Contact cement to attach the front and backs together. Now in the screen used holsters they appear to have just 1 stitch on the top, on each side, and a couple at the very bottom. However I am ok with having stitching around mine and gaining the strength achieved by doing so. So I went ahead and used my leather awl to punch holes all the way around. and stitched them up with the wax thread.

View attachment 132831

From here just finish trimming down the sides to where you want them and using a dremel with a sand paper wheel will burn the edges and match up any imperfections, it looks great! However.........It will also make your house smell like burning flesh, I cant say how disgusting this really was haha.

View attachment 132832

And that is it for the holsters. I will stain these up later when I get done with the straps. More to come then.

View attachment 39687
 

T0R1C

New Hunter
Probably right I’m going to post my own build.

Followed Evallded’s step by step through the holster build. Will rock the straps on my own and will post pics.

0A38327D-797F-4AC5-9F59-5DF69B83E832.jpeg
 

evallded

New Hunter
I am just going to necropost on here for someone that was needing to start this.

Also as far as how the straps all went, there was really no walk through that I made for that since I just used dimensions of straps provided by other members and bought the hardware mentioned above to attach it all. It all came out great and I got my suit approved by the 501st in the area who was excited to have someone with a Jango vs another Boba lol. But I never ended up joining as I had gotten too busy with work:( Here are a few more pics in the off chance it does help anyone with their builds.
 

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stormtrooperguy

Sr Hunter
Along with the necropost... When I made my files for the Westars, I also included a 3d printable wet form mold, so that you wouldn't have to use your own blaster. It's a bit oversized to account for the leather shrinking as it dries. Worked well for me at least :)

 
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