MK Modified Rifle wip thread...

[CeeKay]

tl;dr - this is a WIP, discussion, and hopefully reference thread....
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>Story:
Soo, I've always loved that Fennec's rifle was based on the SVD. Lo and behold, it's based on the same broken SVD beebee gun that's been sitting in the corner of my shop for years! (for those curious, it seems to be an A&K airsoft SVD, as can be found here: A&K SVD Dragunov Bolt Action Airsoft Sniper Rifle (Color: Stealth Black / 430 FPS) )

So now I've got the bright idea to make an MK Modified rifle out of it!

>References:
So, I've been pouring over the series for the past few days trying to snatch as many screenshots as possible for reference, but it's next to impossible to get a good, clear, close-up shot of the whole thing. What kind of reference shots are others using for their builds, if any? Attached are a handful of good references I snatched from Mando and Fett, as well as a pic of the current state of the broken beebee gun (unmolested so far). It's really tough to get a good, detailed front-end shot of either a 3/4 view or head-on; I need to know how the new furniture interacts with the "gas tube" area... It seems even tougher to get a good, detailed shot of the bottom, top, and rear sling mount areas, as well as the back of the sling greeblies... Gah, what I'd give for just a good look at the MK!

>Random Notes thusfar:
The sling studs are literally standard sling studs, I'm betting the rear is a coarse, drilled/threaded/glued into the grip, and the front a bolt/nut config, most likely also Loctited or epoxied or what have you, to keep it locked in place. The sling itself uses HK hooks from Blue Force Gear, and attach to a small section of 1" sling on either end, which are then coupled to a 1.5" sling (no idea why, probably completely for greeblie-holding purposes). It seems these HK hooks attach to a 1" or 3/4" split ring (key ring)? Hard to tell from a pic.

As for the sling greeblies, they look as if they've got two bars behind them what for weaving the nylon strap into the greeblie, which makes way more sense than just gluing them on as initially surmised. Further, they look like they're all the same general shape on the visible side (rectangular, with a step-down on the top), but of two different sizes? For 3D printing purposes, I'm planning to make them in two pieces and glue together, because my ooold printer isn't the best...

The scope has already been identified as an NCStar Ultimate Sighting System Gen 3 (with red dot), wearing an Ant Supplies rubber scope cup (part number ANTE40-A). The optic seems to run somewhere around $200 new, though NCStar optics should all be sub-$100 optics cuz they suck but w/e. The optic comes in Mil-Dot or "P4 Sniper", which is only a reticle option; it affects literally nothing. The scope cup is fairly easy to get from Ant Supplies.

Speaking of, the scope is clearly mounted with a piece of picatinny rail to the dust cover. This will require some enginerding, as there's no natural picatinny nor accommodation for such. It will have to be specifically modified for this purpose. Bolt-and-nut (or M-Lok hardware) seems the best option here, as there's not much up top for an epoxy or JB Weld or something to grab onto. I have a feeling an epoxy attachment method would fail fairly easily, not unlike the attached screenie from Mando S2 (rifle036.png, second to last img). Given that the dust cover is steel on this broken beebee gun, welding would be an option, though one would have to source a steel pic rail, as most of the market right now is using aluminum or PA6-6. Not impossible, just extra leg work. Also, I haven't yet seen evidence of the rail welded to the dust cover. Finally, the pic rail will most likely have to be contoured to fit the convex dust cover area, as well as be trimmed to fit the optic base (seems to be, anyway). Think I'll go aluminum rail, can be sourced easy when the time comes.

Not sure if the stock is cut off, or the new stock is molded around the original, but according to a size overlay I made in photoshop, it sure looks like they're the same length of pull, meaning the original is probably not inside the new stock. No way it's just a cover if it's got the spring-loaded compartment, tho. I'll be chopping the stock.

The new stock also has four screw holes on the left side. Not certain if this is a legit means of holding the new stock on, or if it's mounted to the original, or if it's just greeblie. Might go with it...

The barrel will need to be cut down. Easy, tho I'm working out how far atm.

>The plan:
The plan is to 3D print all the furniture upgrades and muzzle device, and have a really cool looking prop in the end. Maintaining airsoft functionality would be neat as heck, but isn't required. Also, being able to "field strip" it like Fennec does later in "Book of Boba Fett" would be way nifty, but will require far more enginerding....

Some ideas I had were to build a mechanism in the butt for the spring-loaded compartment and the little Kilrogg droid, maybe even wire that one up with some red LED's. Also, the plan is to have a small pocket inside with the throwing knife. Just a slot with a magnet would be more than enough for retention. Further plans would be to thread the muzzle and muzzle device, so I could spin it off and replace it with an orange-tipped non-bored version for safety/convention/etc. purposes, as well as a 3D printed knife prop too because cons tend to go overkill on the safety thing these days. Though, being a dude with a heavy beard, I highly doubt I'll ever cosplay as Fennec Shand. Prequel Obi-Wan, maybe... Original Obi-Wan once I'm full-on grayhaired, most assuredly...

Also, I'll probably end up dropping the 3D print file pack on Thingiverse, if I ever get that far.

 

[CeeKay]

So I noticed in the ep featuring the kilrogg droid that Shand has a button to deploy the stock compartment. I'm going to try to avoid this, because it seems it only exists in that one scene. I still want the spring-loaded butt compartment, but I'll try to design it with a different unlocking method; the big white square button just kinda looks sucky...

Also, I stripped the broken beebee gun to almost where I'm going to need it. I also went through and tightened/loctite'd and replaced missing set screws throughout the action and barrel mounting area; no sense in having a floppy rifle! Even tweaked and lightly oiled the firing system inside, just to keep everything working nicely for now.

Pretty sure I'll have to shave the original mag catch off and grind down the ears on the rear sight block, as there's no way they nest inside the new handguard pieces; just too in the way.

I'm not entirely certain if they used the original handguard retaining cap for mounting the new handguard, but it doesn't look like it from the field strip scene. In fact, it looks like it's three interlocking parts; the mag well cover (stayed on for the scene), the top tube with first big triangular greeblie, and the underside part with the second big triangular greeblie and "gas block" attached. Though, the "gas block" on the broken beebee gun has a sling attachment ring stuck up under it not unlike a Yugoslavian M72 RPK, and it tightens down with a set screw (and it's on the MK Modified as well). This makes the "gas block" so much harder to quickly install and impossible to keep in place without tools; not sure how she did it, unless the whole scene was all for show (probably, as she just sets the muzzle device on and "locks" it in place with a completely effortless twist. I'm betting this scene is largely for show, and that particular prop wasn't ready for action scenes (i.e. durable enough to play around with without falling apart). Unless everything is designed to slot-and-lock together with locking tabs or something, I'm not entirely certain how it all stays together..... Though, as far as the original handguard ring goes, it would make for one heck of a good solid spot to mount to, and even in regards to the field strip scene, it could make a good guide piece. It may get used again. Though, this is what was broken on my particular beebee gun, so I'll most likely be finding a bolt and nut for it, if it gets reused. No clue why it also has a set screw in it.

I was also thinking maybe the front sling stud is the new set screw holding everything and the gas block on, but in the field strip scene, the sling studs are indeed in place, even though the rings and sling are not. Speaking of sling swivels, it seems there are two different versions of the new trigger guard strap; one that slots into the grip with the sling swivel going into the grip further back, and one where the steel simply runs along the length of the grip butt with the swivel going through it. I do like the aesthetics of the former...

I also did some measurements on reference images, and I think I've got the barrel marked right about where I want to cut it. I'll have to cut this pot metal jacket (the black part), and also shorten the brass tube (actual barrel) inside, but I'll worry about that measurement when I get the jacket cut.

Finally, I whipped up a down and dirty alpha prototype muzzle device for mock-up, which I just sent to the printer. Note: I know this muzzle device doesn't have the flats in the rib section; like I said, prototype for mock-up. I may end up casting this part out of something, because I only have the capacity to crappily print PLA... At that point, I could just use this alpha as the master alpha mold, then cut the flats in later (sure makes me wish I had a mill, or at the very least an XY table for my drill press). Better, it would give me more flexibility in hand-carving this piece to perfection (I'm not the best 3D modeler). In fact, I think I'm probably going to just cast all the parts because of my poo-tier modeling skills.

Oh, also, in regards to welding the picatinny rail to the dust cover (mentioned above), there's no way in hell; all of the metal on this poor thing is cheese-grade pot metal; it would be tough as hell to try and weld something to it, and I'm nowhere near that good of welder.

I think that's all for tonight...

 

[CeeKay]

Woke up to a completed print, went to pop it off the bed and it crumbled in my hand; some sort of failure around the neck area. Started another half piece print, and that too failed... That's what I get for running a different brand of filament and expecting it to work with the old brand's settings.

Got the first half printing on tweaked settings, hopefully it survives and works as a proof of concept/scaling, and I can continue with this both-piece print when I get back from work.

Also, while I was closing up the geometry from splitting the model, I added the flat spots as well.

 

[CeeKay]

Tiny but huge update... Finally got my dumb printer to kick out parts! This new filament was kind of a bear to get going. But, now I've got half the muzzle device, and the other half waiting on the print bed at home.

Going to have to alter the geometry a good bit more, doesn't look just right yet. Also, don't mind the contour putty all over it...

 

[CeeKay]

Played around a bit this morning, got some glazing putty down for visibility, test-fit, etc. Haven't done the side-by-side with the reference pics yet, but I already know I have to do a lot of tweaking. How much remains to be seen (once I'm off work again).

I also did a bit of research, and it seems this barrel jacket would be just the right size for a 5/8x24 thread (western world standard for .30 caliber rifles atm, btw I'm a gunsmith in real life).... Though, I'm running a 16.25mm ID in the mating area of the muzzle device (which is roughly the measurement of the barrel at the cut mark), meaning I'll have to reduce both the muzzle diameter and the mating area to .625" to accommodate the 5/8x24 thread I'd cut.... And I'm currently without a lathe, so that's going to complicate the process just a bit more. Plus, I'd have to time the muzzle device at that point, so that it stops on the threads at just the right spot......

Question: What are you guys using to smooth your 3D prints? This is all PLA (all I have on hand atm, and no settings for anything else), so the acetone steams and stuff that others are doing with ABS etc. won't work here..... I was thinking some 5-minute epoxy would be great, as it's WAY stronger than just PLA with Testor's glazing putty...

Thanks!

[edit] scored the sling hardware (minus rings) from work... [/edit]

 

[CeeKay]

Straightened out the geometry quite a bit; squared the nozzle, flattened the sides, rounded the edges, shortened the "neck", etc. Version 001d printing now!

[edit] stupid dang printer!! Dunno what changed from last print to now, but it refuses to stick to the dam bed!! Like 3 failed prints this morning.... Should probably upgrade from the 2014 knockoff Prusa I'm running.......[/edit]

 

[CeeKay]

Small update - the body of the muzzle device is looking pretty dang awesome, but the head still needs major adjustment (way too square, need to round off all the edges). Got nothing done yesterday (a good rest), but still did some hypothesizing.

So the handguard sections are going to dovetail together somehow. Just like a scene in the latest eps of Fett, I'd like it to be a 3-piece takedown design, where I can pull it all off if I need to.

The first piece I think I'll design to nest into the rear handguard retaining ring (still featured on the stripped beebee gun pictured above), then pivot slightly to "lock" against the trigger pack takedown pin (very proud head on that pin, will make a perfect locking lug), and also lock into the front end of the magazine well. This creates both a rear- and front- facing bind, which should be pretty secure. This will be easily done with some slight bump-outs on the model; doesn't need anything too crazy.

The immense squared metal "trigger guard" piece will get a slot in the grip area, and will then slot into the rear handguard piece and pivot upward as the rear handguard "locks" onto the aforementioned pin and mag well spot. This should cause a leaf spring forward pressure that should keep everything locked up on the front of the mag well.

Though, if I put too much emphasis into the front of the mag well area, I'll end up blocking the beebee feed that I'd like to keep around for airsoft firing purposes (best way to cue up a blaster effect, imho, just sux this thing isn't semi-auto).... As for beebee feed and functionality, I might build a simple gravity hopper into the top of the rear handguard piece, and have a small brass journal feeding into the original chamber feed area. Probs going to have to heavily modify the underlying rifle to get it to work, but that's my hope at least...

For the scope install, I'm definitely going to do Magpul MOE hardware, as it would seem to distribute the weight the best over the pot metal dust cover (if you move it, it will crumble, etc).... Pretty sure I'll be building a small plate under the MOE hardware, too, to better distribute the weight up top (dear Star Wars: There's a reason there's a side rail on Soviet weapons...).

Etc...

 

[CeeKay]

Picked up some Magpul MOE rail sections for the hardware (will run an aluminum rail, when the time comes). The plates on the back will be perfect for distributing the weight of the optic on the pot metal top cover, and will also get bent in the vice to provide a rounded foot, once I get that far.

Found 3D print files for the knife and Kilrogg droid here:

Fennec Shand Throwing Knife

The knife thrown by Fennec Shand to release the grip of Black Krrsantan, sending him to the bottom of the Sarlacc Pit. https://youtu.be/33I62HYUBZE

cults3d.com

Fennec Shand Reconnaissance Drone

Small round reconnaissance drone Fennec uses in 4th episode of The Book of Boba Fett. 25 Jan Update: After talking with peeps at RPF Forum I've modified the design a bit to be more accurate. Also it has been made bigger by 20%. 26 Jan Update: Couple more smaller updates to satisfy RPF...

cults3d.com

The droid is free, the knife is a buck and a quarter... But since this saves me days/weeks of modeling, I'm very much not opposed to paying.

I scaled the knife to 0.75 before printing. Glad it's a huge model, but I think the original scaling might be way too big. We'll see when this print is done. The droid will get magnets and LEDs to keep it in place, etc.

I have come across a few real steel knives (harpoon or "bird and fish" knives) that are so very similar, but none exact (handle and jimping on the spine of the blade). If anyone knows where they got the knife, I'd love to hear! Otherwise, I'll have to have my bladesmith friend make one.

[edit] The knife print is done and looking fairly okayish!! It should be enough for me to get my bladesmith friend to copy it in steel. 0.75% scaling looks just about perfect!! It's just right in the hand, and looks pretty dang close to screen-sized when gripped like I'm about to throw it at a wookiee.... [/edit]