smuggler_fett
Jr Hunter
What is everyone using to go over humbrol enamels don't want to mess my paint up Any tips
Dullcote
- Thread starter smuggler_fett
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DeathProof
Active Hunter
Testor's Dullcote 
SchurmanFETT94
Hunter
I use them quite a bit but not a lot of them are spot on. If you are doing a layering method rather than topically use humbrol enamels. I used blaidon props tutorial on youtube when I first started.
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jbdubz
Active Hunter
smuggler_fett
Jr Hunter
On another note do you guys primer the armor before using the humbrol enamel if so what primers have you had the best luck with I've always used rustoleum but half the time it cracks on me and it's not humidity or temp as I usually paint in house
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ToEleven
Active Hunter
Rustoleum primer is hit or miss in my experience. I've had consistent results with Krylon and Duplicolor. Make sure you give the primer coat a good 48 hrs or more to harden. If you go over with another paint too soon you will definitely see some cracking.
If you're doing a couple coats of the same primer to clean up a surface then add your next coat as soon as it's sandable/dry to the touch...don't let it go to the 24hr mark or you will need to give it longer to cure. In my experience with Krylon primer, the 2nd coat will crack at or around the 24hr mark, but not after 48 hrs.
If you're doing a couple coats of the same primer to clean up a surface then add your next coat as soon as it's sandable/dry to the touch...don't let it go to the 24hr mark or you will need to give it longer to cure. In my experience with Krylon primer, the 2nd coat will crack at or around the 24hr mark, but not after 48 hrs.
Grimstuff
Active Hunter
Yeah, absolutely do prime, especially when painting resins.
I agree with ToEleven that I'm not that big a fan of the normal Rustoleum 'painters touch' primer. It really doesn't have any more adhesion qualities than just normal paint, and has identical dry times. It's also very moisture sensitive. I pretty much only use it as a color, never as a surface primer. I'm pretty sure it's just normal paint in a flat shade.
If you want good primers, automotive and specialty stuff is the way to go. Rustoleum does has some pretty good offerings there, I use their 2-in-1 Sandable and Filler primer all the time during the final smoothing stages after bondoing, and their Universal Bonding Primer is something I've just started using that seems to adhere really nice to resin. Both are dry sandable and surfacable within a few hours, though I'd still recommend 24 hours just to get a proper full cure.
And yeah, as ToEleven mentioned, Duplicolor is also a really great brand that makes really high quality automotive paints, can be a bit hard to find though. Krylon primers I haven't had the chance to use yet, but I do like their clear coats though.
I agree with ToEleven that I'm not that big a fan of the normal Rustoleum 'painters touch' primer. It really doesn't have any more adhesion qualities than just normal paint, and has identical dry times. It's also very moisture sensitive. I pretty much only use it as a color, never as a surface primer. I'm pretty sure it's just normal paint in a flat shade.
If you want good primers, automotive and specialty stuff is the way to go. Rustoleum does has some pretty good offerings there, I use their 2-in-1 Sandable and Filler primer all the time during the final smoothing stages after bondoing, and their Universal Bonding Primer is something I've just started using that seems to adhere really nice to resin. Both are dry sandable and surfacable within a few hours, though I'd still recommend 24 hours just to get a proper full cure.
And yeah, as ToEleven mentioned, Duplicolor is also a really great brand that makes really high quality automotive paints, can be a bit hard to find though. Krylon primers I haven't had the chance to use yet, but I do like their clear coats though.
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