Cod studs And ROTJ chest green


TantivOdessa

New Hunter
At this point I should make my own WIP Thread. Anyways I have 2 more questions from you knowledgeable people. The rattlecan Huntersclub green is what I see recommended for the main armor green. Looking at reference photos from the movies and displays the armor can look to have a bit more to, alot more green in it than the rattle. Just wondering if anyone that has seen the costume themselves can chime in on the green color.

And the cod to kidney square stud fasteners. Is there one on each side, 2 on one side, or one on one side. The only reference photo I could find that showed the connection had one on the right side. The 501st crl says two fasteners, but is that both on one side or one on each?

Thanks again in advance.
 

Irongladiator

Active Hunter
TDH PREMIUM MEMBER
Hi TantivOdessa
In an attempt to try and answer your questions....

Q: "The rattlecan Huntersclub green is what I see recommended for the main armor green. Looking at reference photos from the movies and displays the armor can look to have a bit more to, alot more green in it than the rattle. Just wondering if anyone that has seen the costume themselves can chime in on the green color."
A: I myself just finished my ROTJ Hero Fett build. I used primarily Airbrush, I'm not sure just looking at your question whether or not you're also looking to do Airbrush, but if you are then I can tell you I used Tamiya's "Deep Green" (XF-26) with a drop of white to lighten it up just a touch. I bought all my armor from Boba Maker and commissioned him to paint up my Chest, and in an attempt to match his color I found that was the closest. Even folks on TDH, said I had a great match on it. (y)

Q: "And the cod to kidney square stud fasteners. Is there one on each side, 2 on one side, or one on one side. The only reference photo I could find that showed the connection had one on the right side. The 501st crl says two fasteners, but is that both on one side or one on each?"
A: For the Cod/Kidney Armor, you only need two square studs - One on each side.

Hope this helps.

If you're looking for a WIP you can reference mine if you wish. I've been told I have a lot of good detail and pics in there on various things.


Thanks,
-Iron
 

TantivOdessa

New Hunter
I have been using your wip alot. It has been incredibly helpful.
I am going to airbrush it all

I had all the colors settled on besides the green but just by some sheer luck I have a bottle of xf 26 lying in a cupboard.
I was trying to get a good color from the archive x paints but it is difficult to get a consistent mix with them.
 

Irongladiator

Active Hunter
TDH PREMIUM MEMBER
TantivOdessa
I have been using your wip alot. It has been incredibly helpful.
I'm glad to hear that the work I've documented and done was a help in some small way. Stay tuned as I got more things I'll be adding to my WIP here shortly(y) :cool:

I am going to airbrush it all
I know it is purely a personal preference, but I found I had way more control of the amount of paint I tossed on my stuff as opposed to rattlers.

I had all the colors settled on besides the green but just by some sheer luck I have a bottle of xf 26 lying in a cupboard.
Fate, it seems, is on your side! While Boba Maker didn't tell me his exact mixing ratios - he did tell me that it is Tamiya Paints that he does use. I think I was lucky with the mixing, if you can call adding in a drop of white mixing. ;)

Thanks,
-Iron
 

TantivOdessa

New Hunter
TantivOdessa

I'm glad to hear that the work I've documented and done was a help in some small way. Stay tuned as I got more things I'll be adding to my WIP here shortly(y) :cool:


I know it is purely a personal preference, but I found I had way more control of the amount of paint I tossed on my stuff as opposed to rattlers.


Fate, it seems, is on your side! While Boba Maker didn't tell me his exact mixing ratios - he did tell me that it is Tamiya Paints that he does use. I think I was lucky with the mixing, if you can call adding in a drop of white mixing. ;)

Thanks,
-Iron
Your armor does look darker than the xf 26 in your photos. Is that down to the weathering and lighting?( black/ brown misting?) That is whats throwing me off. I see two parties using very dark green like the hunt club. Then the xf 26 is a few shades lighter.

Interesting thing to note. Archive-X Weyerhauser Green is almost identical to xf 26. I will use the Weyerhaeuser green this time round and give it some good weathering.
 

Irongladiator

Active Hunter
TDH PREMIUM MEMBER
Yepper's! Again, just the single drop of XF-2 (Flat White) and then a light misting of Flat Black. And possibly lighting may be throwing ya. But that's all I did.

-Iron
 

TantivOdessa

New Hunter
You need to start charging for this info. You'd make serious money.
I will post picks in a few weeks when it's painted. The Weyerhauser green is slightly almost unnoticeably lighter. Trying to go full archive x with the exception of the tamiya x-11 chrome silver.
 

TantivOdessa

New Hunter
Is it the same Weyerhauser green for ESB, misted with Grime?
Yes, from archive x.

But, I have been looking at more movie footage and pictures of the rotj costume. Some of the stunt suits look similar to the Weyerhaeuser green color. The rotj hero suit is definitely a darker different green from the ESB unless there was a boat load of grime sprayed on. Messing with the tamiya and archive x paints, I am almost convinced its more of a olive green color akin to xf-58 but a little lighter.
 

Irongladiator

Active Hunter
TDH PREMIUM MEMBER
NikTrooper
Is it the same Weyerhauser green for ESB, misted with Grime?
The ESB and ROTJ are indeed different greens as far as the armor goes. The 501st states that they are:
Boba Fett - Main Armor Colors.jpg


-Iron
 
I don’t claim to be an authority on what colour green is correct for either ESB or ROTJ.

Both these are painted in Archive-X with Weyerhaeuser Green. The misting is different between them both.

To me ESB always looked lighter with a lighter still left chest and ab. ESB is misted here and there with Grime then toned back with Weyerhaeuser again. The base colour, SP Dark Lark and SP Armour Yellow.

ROTJ is misted with Light Blue 55, Pullman Green DK and spattered with Engine Black.

The light they’re photographed in drastically changes the green too.

I’ve not got any recent photos of these, they’ve changed a bit since with extra weathering and the chest emblem being painted on.
 

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TantivOdessa

New Hunter
I don’t claim to be an authority on what colour green is correct for either ESB or ROTJ.

Both these are painted in Archive-X with Weyerhaeuser Green. The misting is different between them both.

To me ESB always looked lighter with a lighter still left chest and ab. ESB is misted here and there with Grime then toned back with Weyerhaeuser again. The base colour, SP Dark Lark and SP Armour Yellow.

ROTJ is misted with Light Blue 55, Pullman Green DK and spattered with Engine Black.

The light they’re photographed in drastically changes the green too.

I’ve not got any recent photos of these, they’ve changed a bit since with extra weathering and the chest emblem being painted on.
Those look great. I will give your method a try. Unfortunately Pullman green dk has been out of stock for months now. If anyone a bottle they are willing to part with, I will buy it.
 

TantivOdessa

New Hunter
I don’t claim to be an authority on what colour green is correct for either ESB or ROTJ.

Both these are painted in Archive-X with Weyerhaeuser Green. The misting is different between them both.

To me ESB always looked lighter with a lighter still left chest and ab. ESB is misted here and there with Grime then toned back with Weyerhaeuser again. The base colour, SP Dark Lark and SP Armour Yellow.

ROTJ is misted with Light Blue 55, Pullman Green DK and spattered with Engine Black.

The light they’re photographed in drastically changes the green too.

I’ve not got any recent photos of these, they’ve changed a bit since with extra weathering and the chest emblem being painted on.
Do the lighter esb plates have more layers of the grime lightening the green. Are the darker plates weathered the same as the lighter?
 
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Do the lighter esb plates have more layers of the grime lightening the green. Are the darker plates weathered the same as the lighter?
The lighter ESB plates turn out brighter with addition of the yellow underneath. The SP Dark Lark is also used lightly for weathering on the left chest and ab. The Grime lightens it up and then when you go over with Weyerhaeuser again in a mist it blends them nicely.

These photos don’t have the washes applied, which can darken it slightly. Also some sealers can darken the tones a little more too. Always something to think about.
 
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