Bucket Panel Line Issues - Help


dreadpyrat

Active Hunter
Hey all, working on my fiberglass Mando bucket and managed to sand away much of the original panel lines on the crest. I'm trying to rescribe them (after filling what's left of the lines with Bondo Spot Putty) using a strip of stock brass as a guide, and a Tamiya panel Scriber, but the blade keeps seeking out the original grooves and the results are messy and terrible looking. Any suggestions on how to fix this? I hate that they are wavy and there are spots with multiple lines...

Any advice is GREATLY appreciated!

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dreadpyrat

Active Hunter
Thanks! I tried tape first but the scriber still wanted to skip around.

Fet4Real - can you elaborate? I think I get what you mean, but would like to hear more.
 

chibobber

New Hunter
Needle file would be more controllable, even better would be a fine cut rifler file. These are curved needle files and would work in a smaller area with good control.
 

Fett 4 Real

Sr Hunter
Id use a triangular shaped needle file to carve the line personally. It will give you a ton more control then that of a scribing tool.
 

dreadpyrat

Active Hunter
Hey BigKidBiggerToy - do you know which file you used? I've got a cheap triangular needle file but dont want to mess this up a third time so hoping you recall the make/model.
 

bigkidbiggertoys

Well-Known Hunter
I think I picked mine up at the dollar store, no name brand.

Don't overthink it. The scribe line you produced is clean enough and the triangle file will follow the path, make it slightly wider and straighten it out as long as you go slow and lightly. You can see I still need to work in the front still.
 

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bigkidbiggertoys

Well-Known Hunter
I did it exactly the way you started, with a straightedge and scribe, followed up with the needle file. I didn't get it perfect but with a bit of spot putty and primer it will look good in the end.
 

swgeek

New Hunter
First off, I would use regular body filler instead of spot filler. Spot filler is too soft. Second, I would use a scribing tool and Dymo tape for a straight edge. You have to go slow and not try to get a deep groove right away. Doing light passes and building up to a deeper groove works best.
 

dreadpyrat

Active Hunter
You know - that is a really good point you make about Spot filler V regular filler. I felt like the scriber jumped to the filled areas since it was lest resistance - and thats what made the lines wobbly. If the Needle File on spot filler doesnt get me what I want, I'll refile with real body putty, and then file again.
 

bigkidbiggertoys

Well-Known Hunter
Yes I used regular auto body filler first as it is stronger and you can shape it. I used spot putty for the odd wavering line just to fill in a bit while straightening out. Once it soaks up the primer it is stable. It is used on cars after all but just for slight imperfections.
 

dreadpyrat

Active Hunter
Hey all, got around to doing it this weekend and was a total success. filled the gaps with Spot Putty, (I didn't have any regular body filler on hand), let it dry, sanded it, and then soaked it in thin super glue. Let that dry, sanded again till smooth. Bolted down the brass strip guide ( I drilled holes in the crest to bolt the strip to), filed along the guide with a cheapo crosscut triangle mini-file, then filled the bolt holes and sanded it all smooth. Looks great. I'll post pics tomorrow.

Appreciate all the advice and guidance!
 
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