Bo-Katan Rebels armor (GoldenCat build)

[GoldenCat]

Hello to everyone First, let me start with the question - Do you think this version of Bo could be in 501st or is she too much of the Rebel supporter? I mean she is still a mandalorian, even more, she's the new leader of Mandalore. But she's now a "good guy" and we have Rex in the 501st who was always a good guy.
Either way I'm 100% sure she can be in the Rebel Legion and Mandalorian Mercs, so here we go:

I wanted to start this topic a while ago, so right now my costume is on the finishing state. I have some things to fix, but I would like to hear your opinion and your thoughts. And in the next few days I will update the topic with progress pics and a complite breakdown of the costume that I'd made along the way.

It's been two weeks since the convention where I was testing this costume for three days. I was so worried about the costume, that for some time I debated if I should wear it at all. But I love that I sort of take everything under control the day before the convention and crafted the head band.
What more can I say - so many things to change and improve! But for now let me share a few pics with you, sadly this darksaber not mine and on some pics my wig is a mess because it was a constant "buckets on" and "buckets off".

With the help of photoshop I made a small comparisson to help figuring out what I need to change. And how much I hate this cartoon style with small torso and long legs.. This is where my problem with proportions came in. My upper body is shaped differently and that's why my chest plates are big. And my legs aren't so long, but I wanted to have functional holsters - this is why my thigh armor is so much bigger that in the ref pics. Here are some adjustments that I think I can do to make things more screen-accurate.

Changes^^
- mount the jetpack higher
- shorten the backplate a bit and add a dark gray area to it.
- ?? shorten the chest plates and with this everything below them will go higher
- craft the westars so then I could modify my thigh armor to be smaller, but still have functional holsters. And overall fix the thigh armor to be more accurate.
- No re-sew. Her suit appears almost black as mine, so I will only make a decant gray color pattern.
- Make a collar.
- EXTENSIVE WEATHERING. Sorry for caps, but I'm looking at this images and can't wait to do all the damage xD
- Helmet ears should be fixed. No circles, those details are more of squares with circled tops. And lower part of the ears is painted dark gray.
- Belt: Small detail on the buckle, also the larger belt have small lines on it, to simulate a girth belt.
- Make a missile for the jetpack ?? Bo do not has a missile on her jet pack for two episodes! It only appears out of nowhere for a few seconds, has no use at all and dissapears again. So, I don't know, if I should craft it or not..

And this is it. If you have any more suggestions, I will be happy to hear them [/img]

 

[GoldenCat]

Here's my updated breakdown of the costume:

Helmet
-Must have a dark colored, full one piece "T" visor.
-Must have a dark gray rangefinder "Rebels"-style (see Sabine's rangefinder for more detail) and stalk on the right side of the helmet.
-The mandibles and fore head must be a white color.
-The upper cheeks must be a darker blue/dark gray color.
-The key slot area and rear rim must be middle-dark gray.
-Both blues must match the visual references as closely as possible in similar lighting.
-The dome, lower cheeks, and the back of the helmet must be blue in color.
-The helmet must be weathered and should match the visual references as closely as possible.
- Painting: Two light grey circle-like shapes on each side on top of t-shaped visor. The mandibles must have a slightly visible light gray pattern (weathering). Must have the large “V” logo at the center of the forehead that is black in color. Also 5 small black lines that start from the beginning of white area at dome. They end before the V logo.
- The stalk of the range finder should be lowered into the ear piece on the right side of the helmet and has a dark gray/black piece (it's basically a square with rounded top corners) on top of it. On the left ear there must be identical piece.
- There is a vertical line present on top of the ear pieces on both sides of the helmet. It should be light gray in color with a thin black lining.
- The blue cheeks should be rounded at the top unlike the more tapered cheeks of Boba Fett.

Flightsuit
-Must be a cotton or cotton blend stretch material two-piece garment being black/ dark charcoal grey with a medium grey pattern. The pattern should match the reference.
-Must be single sleeved with long sleeves going under the forearm gauntlets.
-Must have no visible zippers or openings.
-Must allow for the attachment of cod, knee and holster armor.
-Pants must be tight and have a medium grey section going from the hips to the boots.
-Must include a turtleneck or tight neck seal on the neck.

Flak vest
-Must be black in color (should be darker than the main color of the flightsuit).
-Must be as seamless as possible.
-Shoulders must not flare outward like wings and must end just under the shoulder armor.
-Must allow for the attachment of chest, back, belly, and shoulder armor.
-Must be short and end before the belt.

Gloves and hand armor
-Must be dark gray almost black in color and of a thin, soft material. Same or similar to the material used for the flight suit and worn tucked underneath the gauntlets.
-No visiable attachments of hand armor to the gloves.
-Hand armor - small pieces, rectangular shaped with cut off angles (so overall there must be 8 angles), armor slightly curves to follow the shape of the hand. Lower side of the armor coinsides with lower side of the trapezee shape that placed on the armor.

Gauntlets (Identical to Ursa's gauntlets and other Female Mando's from Clan Wren, only different color)
-Must be Animated Female Clan Wren style armor.
-Must be made of a solid material such as fiberglass, resin, styrene, sintra or Vac-formed ABS.
-Must be blue in color and weathered where indicated in visual references to give the illusion of battle wear and damage.
-Must have a thin seam on the inner side of the gauntlets.
o The right gauntlet must contain the following components as shown in the visual references:
• 5 Buttons on the top. Same size vertical rectangles one lime and two yellow in a row, then a green perpendicular below the first row. Then a large yellow trapeze closer to a wrist opening. Two vertical slights on the outside of the blasters for exploding. A slit for hidden knife to be expelled (over wrist opening).
• There must be a light gray rectangular on the outer and inner side of the protruding part of the gauntlet.
o The left gauntlet must have three forward facing darts in front near the section, one more dart in the middle and two illuminated buttons on the top. One yellow and one lime - identical in shape and size.
Another platform on the outside of the gauntlet, smaller than the main one. Slightly protrudes from the cuff, has two sections, the one farther from the wrist - above. There are 3 buttons on it - one yellow vertically placed rectangle, the other two smaller, lime colored, horizontally arranged rectangles.
• There must be a dark gray / black rectangular on the outer and inner side of the protruding part of the gauntlet

Chest Armor
-Consists of left and right breast plates, a center diamond and an abdominal plate.
-Must be made of a solid material such as fiberglass, styrene, sintra or Vac-formed ABS.
-Must have dimension and give the feeling of thickness and depth.
-Must be gray in color and weathered where indicated in visual references to give the illusion of battle wear and damage.
-Center diamond plate between breast plates must have an indented vertical rectangle as shown in visual references that is a bit darker grey then the main chest armor.
-All armor must attach securely to the vest with proper spacing and be appropriately sized to the wearer.

Back Armor
-Must be made of a solid material such as fiberglass, styrene, sintra or Vac-formed ABS.
-Must have dimension and give the feeling of thickness and depth.
-Must curve on the shoulders and end at front imitating collar armor.
-Must be blue and gray in color - gray is the central area of the back and some can be seen on curved parts at front) and weathered where indicated in visual references to give the illusion of battle wear and damage.
-Must attach securely to the back of the vest.

Shoulder
-Must be made of a solid material such as fiberglass, styrene, sintra or Vac-formed ABS.
-Must have dimension and give the feeling of thickness and depth.
-Must curve around the upper arm and shoulder.
-Must be blue in color and weathered where indicated in visual references to give the illusion of battle wear and damage.
-Both shoulders must feature matching round, black and white Nite Owl sigils. Design must match visual references.

Belt
-Must be made of leather or similar materials and brown in color.
-Must consist two pieces – one is wide and approximately 3 inches wide and the other is almost two times smaller and placed at the center over the first one.
-The larger belt should have horizontal lines on it to simulate a girth belt
-Main belt have no visible seam (so it could be covered by one of the pouches). Heavy duty velcro is recommended for durability. The small belt secures via rectangle buckle at front. And there're a smaller vertical rectangle on the buckle.
- Must include four equally sized pouches (two on each side) approximately 2 inches wide and 3.5 inches tall attached to belt.

Codpiece
-Cod armor is made of three separate pieces.
-The three pieces must be made of a solid material such as fiberglass, styrene, sintra or Vac-formed ABS.
-Must have dimension and give the feeling of thickness and depth.
-Must be gray in color and weathered where indicated in visual references to give the illusion of battle wear and damage.
-Must be worn below the belt.

Thigh Armor
-Must be made of a solid material such as fiberglass, styrene, sintra or Vac-formed ABS.
-Must have dimension and give the feeling of thickness and depth.
-Must be curved to fit snugly over thighs.
-Must be gray in color and weathered where indicated in visual references to give the illusion of battle wear and damage.
-There should be thin dark gray line pattern (see the ref).
-Must attach securely on the thighs of the flightsuit.
-There should be a thin cut in the middle of the top part of the thigh armor that goes to the holsters.
- Must include holsters located on the lateral sides.
- Holsters should appear almost separate from the armor parts.
- Must have a light gray ½ inch strap at the top that securely fastens around the upper thigh.

Knee Armor
-Must be made of a solid material such as fiberglass, styrene, sintra or Vac-formed ABS.
-Must have dimension and give the feeling of thickness and depth.
-Must be blue in color and weathered where indicated in visual references to give the illusion of battle wear and damage.
-Must attach securely to the front of the knees over the flightsuit.

Shin Armor
-Must be made of a solid material such as fiberglass, styrene, sintra or Vac-formed ABS.
-Must have dimension and give the feeling of thickness and depth.
-Must be gray in color with a blue stipe down the middle and weathered where indicated in visual references to give the illusion of battle wear and damage.
-Must attach securely to at the front over the boots.
-Must have a trapeze cut out of them and placed a bit lower on the boot (see boot armor for mor info).

Boot Armor
-Must be made of a solid material such as fiberglass, styrene, sintra or Vac-formed ABS.
-Must have dimension and give the feeling of thickness and depth.
-Must be worn securely on toe cap and back of the heels.

Boots
-Must be made of leather or similar materials with no visible zippers.
-The part that covers the feet must be black with the sole pattern to match as closely as possible to the animated series.The shin cover should be dark gray in color. (slightly lighter than the feet)
-Must be long enough to end beneath the knee.
-Must allow for secure attachment of armor on top of boot.

Jetpack
-The colors for the jetpack are: blue, light gray, medium gray, dark gray, [glow=red,2,300]red [/glow]and tan.
-Must have the following main components: one center tank and two side fuel tanks, one center missile, two side mounted thrusters / nozzles, plane rectangular plate stretching horizontally through the center tank on each side of it.
-All patterns, colors and weathering must match visual references as closely as possible.
-Optional addition to the jetpack - the missile. It's present at the concept, but in two episodes it only appears for a time lesser than a minute, with no practical use - just appears out of nowhere and then just as suddenly disappears)

Facial appearance:

• Head Band
o Head band is light-medium gray in color with dark/medium gray or black details around the top and sides to match visual references.
o Band is fitted to the wearer and extends from temple to temple; it is worn between the forehead and hair line.
o Band has four yellow illuminating lights; two on each temple.
• Wig/Hair
o Red-orange in color.
o Hair is formed in a "Bob" cut that is angled shorter in the back than the front.
o Wig parts down the middle of the scalp.
• Scar
o The scar runs diagonally from the forehead to the end of the right brow.
• Eye color
o Green contact lenses.


Weapons :

Pair of Westars
-Based on a scratch-built or a modified commercial toy Westar 35 pistol.
-The painting on both pistols is identical and matches the usual light and medium gray color with dark gray finish on the handles and slide as seen on other mandos in Rebels. (the reference show a comparisson between Bo's pistol ans Ursa's - they're the same)

Darksaber (optional)
Must match visual references in color, scale, and construction. The appearance of the darksaber should match the Rebels era (it’s a bit different from the CW darksaber though it supposed to be one weapon)

 

[SEEKER]

Sweet info. Thank you.

 

[GoldenCat]

Thank you <3
No word from Rebel Legion (send the application as Rebel Supporter) yet, it's a new costume without CRL so I understand why it takes longer than usual, also going to try pre-app in mmcc.
Also no news, if she's going to be in 501st as a mandalorian.
I've been doing some minor adjustments, and well, here all sides in helmet and without it. Also photos of the westars, I forgot that I didn't posted them finished.

P.s. Can't even look at pics from two months ago, so many things stand out immediately! That's what I don't like about later stages of the in-progress costume, you take lots of cool photos, and in a mounth you've change the costume so much - it's much better now, but those photos are not as cool as before.. Well, it also means that as soon as I'm finished, I'm going to take even more awesome photos 8)