Black Cat Bone's Boba Fett "Re-Armored" Helmet


BlackCatBone

Active Hunter
Hi, all! So I'm starting with two LoneWolf1183 BF helmets (#15 & #16). I've primed and added my "beskar" layer (Rusto Aluminum).

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Decided to tackle the Re-Armored paint first. I'm starting on the dome. Since it's clear in screenshots that Boba didn't sand off the old post-Sarlacc damaged paint, I've decided to recreate that under-layer before doing any "new" paint. I use liquid latex to mask the areas of old chipping, based on stills form TMS2.

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Then a layer of Rusto Rugged Black to simulate the acid scarred paint.

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Another layer of Rusto Aluminum...

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Then I peel the liquid latex, and I have a pretty good base before I add any green to the dome. A little Rugged Black peeks through, but that's okay. It'll get covered.

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More soon!
 

BlackCatBone

Active Hunter
The dome is green! Some strategic liquid latex for paint “chipping”, then 2 layers of Rustoleum Spruce lightly misted with Rustoleum Emerald Isle, then removal of the latex. It looks shiny due to the paint being satin & semi-gloss, but I will clear flat coat it at the very end.

(The photos look a little more "forest green" than the in-person helmet, which is slightly more "olive green".)

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Bodo Vett

New Hunter
Hi BlackCat,

The chipping effect of the paint after you remove the masking fluid is phenomenal.
But in the photo of the application, the shapes look a little more rounded and less precise. Did you go in after peeling back the fluid and add any additional “chipping” some how? Or does the fluid naturally peel away like that?
I ask because I have never used masking fluid and I am going to attempt a repaint on a Black Series helmet.
Also, did you draw the damage pattern on the dome before applying the masking fluid?

Thanks! I can’t wait to see more of your progress.
 

BlackCatBone

Active Hunter
Bo
Hi BlackCat,

The chipping effect of the paint after you remove the masking fluid is phenomenal.
But in the photo of the application, the shapes look a little more rounded and less precise. Did you go in after peeling back the fluid and add any additional “chipping” some how? Or does the fluid naturally peel away like that?
I ask because I have never used masking fluid and I am going to attempt a repaint on a Black Series helmet.
Also, did you draw the damage pattern on the dome before applying the masking fluid?

Thanks! I can’t wait to see more of your progress.

When the paint dries over the latex, the edges get more crisp and jagged.

You can also use thicker liquid latex for larger less defined areas, and thinner liquid latex for more sharp, precise detail in the chipping, but the thicker latex is easier to remove when you're dealing with that Rugged Black paint--it's very thick as well. I did not draw on the helmet. I used lots of reference photos.
 
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BlackCatBone

Active Hunter
Back panels are done!

Since Boba painted over the damaged paint, I had to create the effect of old paint beneath. So first, liquid latex placed from screenshots from The Mandalorian. Then I shot it with Rustoleum Rugged Black.

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Next, 2 coats of Rustoleum Aluminum, and then peel off that liquid latex. Next, small, strategically placed liquid latex for the final “chips” that will show through.

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Finally, three coats of Rusto Meadow Green misted with Rusto Hunter Green. Then I peel off the final liquid latex “chips”. I will have some touch-ups to do over all, and the whole helmet will be sprayed with a clear flat coat at the end so it won’t be shiny.

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