BFS1 Fixed MR no cut

BobaFettSlave1

Active Hunter
well ill get strait to the point on this one. this is the MR helmet i recently bought. honestly the pinch is not that bad imo but im a stickler for stuff to atleast lookright to a cirtain point so i figured ide fix the damn pinch. the paintjob on this thing is amazing and there is no way i was going to cut the helmet to fix it so i asked what to do on the another board forum and i was told that the cut is completely unnecessary. Thanks for the help Lee. what i was told was to use a heat gun to heat the helmet up and make it flexible. had to do this VERY SLOWLY as to not ruin the paintjob. removing all but the top two screws on the virticle parts of both mandables (this keeps the mandables level like on the ESB filming helmet) and repositioning the existing visor (didnt want my nose to be pushing against a new thicker visor) so that the verry bottom screw holes were on the very edge of becoming visible then glueing the visor in place, i was able to do this.
the top & the bottom are now only 4mm in difference. this is not easily visible. i also removed alot of the green on the borden conecter to bring out the silver on it, also took some rust off the RF
what ya guys think?

PS:Anyone know how to adjust the speed of the RF lights? they are alittle fast to my liking

MR boba helmet.jpg
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Agreed well done, I have always though it un-necessary to cut up the MR helmet when it is a copy of a PP helmet, glad to see another person taking the initiative (y)
 
honestly its not that bad as people were making it out to be IMO. it is off by 10mm or so but this is a very simple fix that saves the helmet interior (which is very nice) aswell as the paint job. for the best pics of the pinch, look for the reparing the MR helmet thread by tk7602.

Dana
 
That does look really good. If I had wanted to preserve the paint on mine, that would have been a great way to do it. I was planning to strip it no matter what, so doing the cut and shift was actually sort of fun ;)
 
well ill get strait to the point on this one. this is the MR helmet i recently bought. honestly the pinch is not that bad imo but im a stickler for stuff to atleast lookright to a cirtain point so i figured ide fix the damn pinch. the paintjob on this thing is amazing and there is no way i was going to cut the helmet to fix it so i asked what to do on the another board forum and i was told that the cut is completely unnecessary. Thanks for the help Lee. what i was told was to use a heat gun to heat the helmet up and make it flexible. had to do this VERY SLOWLY as to not ruin the paintjob. removing all but the top two screws on the virticle parts of both mandables (this keeps the mandables level like on the ESB filming helmet) and repositioning the existing visor (didnt want my nose to be pushing against a new thicker visor) so that the verry bottom screw holes were on the very edge of becoming visible then glueing the visor in place, i was able to do this.
the top & the bottom are now only 4mm in difference. this is not easily visible. i also removed alot of the green on the borden conecter to bring out the silver on it, also took some rust off the RF
what ya guys think?

PS:Anyone know how to adjust the speed of the RF lights? they are alittle fast to my liking

Hey man,

Thanks for all your tips and advice. Your helmet looks great and gave me the the COURAGE to try this tonight! It was pretty easy to peel back the cloth and unscrew the screws going up the visor. then I took a few tooth picks. cutting them the width I wanted to seperate the mandables and taped the tooth picks together and around the edges with painters tape to protect the edges of the mandibles. I used a hair blowdryer to heat the areas on either side inside and out then stuck the taped toothpick between the mandibles on the outside of the visor keeping them spread open to a width were the screw holes were not visable. After a little heat over and over they stayed pretty much open to the width I wanted then I glued the visor in place. Sorry it's pretty late now but I was stoked about the way it turned out so I wanted to post some before and after shots! thanks again for your help! I was really bummed with the pinch until tonight!!! :cheers:cheers
master%20replica%20fix%202.jpg

master%20replica%20fix%206.jpg

master%20replica%20fix%204.jpg

master%20replica%20fix%203.jpg


master%20replica%20fix%205.jpg


Not perfect but MUCH MUCH BETTER!!! :cheers:love:cheers
master%20replica%20fix%207.jpg
 
Looks much better!

thanks man...

after getting a chance to sleep on it, I kinda wish I waited to glue it in cause I think replacing the visor would not be that hard with how easy the small screws are to take out. I'm happy with it though.

does anyone know how difficult it would be to remove a partially super glued visor just in case! :p:confused

I kinda think with the visor off and more heat you'd really be able to shape it pretty well but I could be way off base. But it was pretty easy with a hair dryer to spread it out that far. I'm sure I could have gone farther had there not been the limitations of stopping at the screw holes of the current visor so they didn't show. The mask lining fabric inside just folded back in place and still looks nice. :cheers
 
Thanks again for you help man! Hopefully we'll be seeing some more modded MR popping up around here shortly! ;) It's nerve racking at first but really not that hard once you commit to it.
 
hey guys this is what ive been sending for instructions to people who wanted alittle more detail than my first post..
the heat gun ,(or hair dryer they both work) just point it directly in the helmet from a foot or two away. dont get it too warm though. and keep away from the visor!!! the padding only needs to be pulled back enough for you to get at the vertical screws, between a half inch to an inch. for the screws remove all VERTICLE mandable screws save for the two at the top corners of each mandable. leave the rest alown aswell. screws taken out you can put aside in a safe place but you wont need them as there holes are now off set. now for the visor. you are going to position the two bottom most holes on the verry edge of being visible and glue into place. i used CA glue. its a model superglue. use as little as you can, only enough to hold the visor to the proper spot on the mandables, so it doesnt damage the visor. if you want you could probobly drill new holes in the fiberglass for some of the screws instead of gluing it. I only used glue because i could not find the right size drill bit. on a side note you may not have to heat it up if you dont want to. by the time i was done removing screws the helmet had probobly returned close to normal temperature.
hope that helps and good luck. post those fixes!!! (y)

also alot credit goes to Lee and the guys from the another board for reccommending the heatgun method (y)
Dana
 
great info there. I'm leaning more and more to changing the visor completely now that I know how easy it is and that you don't have to mess up the padding inside.

Here's some more pics I took the other night. It's like having a whole new helmet!

mr%20boba%20fett%20fix%202.jpg
 
the onty issue with ME replacing my visor is that ide have to take off all that extra lip MR put in so that my nose isnt pushing against it as well as peeling back alot mor of that padding & im not up to that yet. it would look alot better though
 
ok i think ive mustered up the brass to go about removing the lip & installing a new visor. dose anyone know where to get a smoked visor that will fit the MR helmet?
 
ok i think ive mustered up the brass to go about removing the lip & installing a new visor. dose anyone know where to get a smoked visor that will fit the MR helmet?

the t-visor.com ones do fit, but you have to trim them. the mystery helmet sized one is slightly too large to fit well. you can take the mr one out and tape it to the t-visor.com one and trace it.

the way i did it was to peel apart the 2 layers of the mr visor (it's 2 thin sheets stuck together).

when you look at them, you'll see a distinct angle down one of the vertical sides.

flip one of the pieces over and line them up at the top. you'll now have a straight side on the left and right of the vertical part, and can use that as a template to trace onto the t-visor.com one.

or you could get a smoked welding make and trace onto that. the welding mask would be cheaper if you have someplace local to pick one up.
 
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