Question about where to buy storm trooper helmet kit / W.I.P.

H

Heatadvisory

New Hunter

• Jan 4, 2015

• #21

I was following pandatroopers tutorial, he seemed to make the teeth shapes rounded, I kind of like that look better, I might make them bigger and a little less round, but Is it very important to change the shape to rectangular?

 

Last edited by a moderator: Jul 25, 2017

syllander

Active Hunter

• Jan 5, 2015

• #22

No, some go with the Twinkie teeth style like yours are. Just more important to get the sizing right. This mainly focuses on the bigger teeth.

 

Last edited by a moderator: Jul 25, 2017

T

The5thHorseman

Hunter

• Jan 5, 2015

• #23

Teeth should definitely be square.

 

Last edited by a moderator: Jul 25, 2017

syllander

Active Hunter

• Jan 5, 2015

• #24

Good reference pic there!

 

Last edited by a moderator: Jul 25, 2017

H

Heatadvisory

New Hunter

• Jan 10, 2015

• #25

I'm starting to fit the front and back together with rare earth magnets.
I'm also not going to use rivets, Instead I will use a bolt and a nut to hold the front and back together.
The side does seem to pop out a little too much, but I've read that the ears will cover that.
I also cut down the black rubber to fit the "Brow".
Any kind of thoughts?

 

Last edited by a moderator: Jul 25, 2017

syllander

Active Hunter

• Jan 10, 2015

• #26

Looks good bud....the ears bring it all together and correct the shape as well as hide the seam/bulge/fit.

 

H

Heatadvisory

New Hunter

• Jan 12, 2015

• #27

It seems like my head cant fit into the helmet that easily. I got it on with the twist method, but my nose and ears got caught on the edges.
I think the rubber s trim should be softer than the rough plastic edges.

How much can I cut the bottom of my helmet for my neck to fit and not be too noticeable?

Also, how does the S trim stay on?

 

syllander

Active Hunter

• Jan 12, 2015

• #28

Gonna have to do some trial and error. I'd take 1/4" off around the opening, then try it again from there. Most folks use the twist on method, so don't worry on that one. Check out Han in the Death Star when they were in the room with Luke and the two droids after they shut themselves in. Very clear twist when he put his lid on. As far as the S trim, it SHOULD stay put ok by pressing it in place, but you'll also want to cut it just a little long to have some positive pressure on itself at the joint.

 

H

Heatadvisory

New Hunter

• Jan 13, 2015

• #29

ok, thanks for the help. Do you have any painting tips? I got the correct testors paints from looking at http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/14251-ata-helmet-build/
On the hexagons and the teardrops do you paint on the edge of the shape, or just inside the edge of the shape?

 

syllander

Active Hunter

• Jan 13, 2015

• #30

Need to look at some good reference pics. ANH lids were hand painted, so there's probably some variance, but I'd say all inside the shape, not past the lines. Have a look at Bobamakers page in his "other projects" tab. He has a nice TK lid paint up. Not really instructional, but you'll get a good glimpse of the paint detail. The original lids were made with a greenish plastic, and painted white. He adds nice detail to his paint up by using a little masking fluid to allow some chips to show thru under the white for a nice aged helmet. You could of course go more subtle, or no weathering at all. Personally I've always found the brand new look to be kind of cheesy.....

 

H

Heatadvisory

New Hunter

• Jan 21, 2015

• #31

I painted the frown and the chin, how does it look?
I noticed the grey is flat and not glossy, does testors have clear gloss enamel to make it glossy? or is it ok to be flat grey?

 

syllander

Active Hunter

• Jan 21, 2015

• #32

It should be glossy. I'd have a look at trooperbay to see the grey that they have from Humbrol. It's a good match. They also have the correct blue for the tube stripes if you plan on hand painting them. One word of caution on the ears. I know you're not there quite yet, but leave plenty of excess on the ear details to allow for fitting them to the sides. Especially the back of the ears.

 

H

Heatadvisory

New Hunter

• Feb 4, 2015

• #33

Still in the process of painting, I'm filling the trapazoids with black, I will paint the grey in. I'm using a flexable tape to make the edges crisp, it has it's flaws.
The tear drop shapes are next, they might be a challenge. After the painting is complete, I will start to fit the ears, thanks for the tip about the ears. Then I will figure out the tube stripes.
Then I will put the finishing touches on this project, Might take a few more weeks, or months.. lol

 

H

Heatadvisory

New Hunter

• Apr 2, 2015

• #34

Well it's taken a while But I've painted everything except the blue stripes and the shape on the ear.
Does the picture look good?
The Ears are starting to be a pain, The back lines up well but the front wont get close enough, sadly this is a lot of work lol.

 

H

Heatadvisory

New Hunter

• Jul 2, 2015

• #35

Well, That took a lot of work, But I'm finally done building my ATA Stunt lid!!!!!

 

syllander

Active Hunter

• Jul 2, 2015

• #36

Looks good man. You can use duct tape on the inside to keep the brow where u want it.

 

H

Heatadvisory

New Hunter

• Jul 2, 2015

• #37

Does the brow look like it's sticking out too much? I'm still working on details like that. I may even consider putting a micro fan in it.

 

T

TK14791

New Hunter

• Sep 2, 2015

• #38

Any updates on your bucket?