Jango Deluxe Tutorial?

Adoo

Jr Hunter
Hi Guys
Can someone point me in the right direction for a tutorial on how to upgrade and sort a 1pc Jango helmet?
Thanks in advance.
 
Well I could not find a direct tutorial for the 1pc so I just got stuck in.
I took of the rf and cap and cut out the visor with a craft knife (Warning: be very careful when doing this as the helmet plastic is rubbery and one slip with the knife could be costly)
I then sanded of the trademark writing etc from the back and gave the helmet a good sanding down all over.
Primered it all with one coat of paint and once dry I have given it a coat of metalic.
Next job is a clear coat and another metalic coat, then onto the weathering and top coats.
I'll post up my progress and maybe some pics. Be patient with me tho as I have never made or painted anything in my life, not sure my DIY skills are all that good.
Thanks.
 
STUPID COMPUTER!!! i had a real nice reply all typed up for you then it all went bye bye! i'm a little too irritated to type it all again. so when i'm calmed down later on i'll do that. it was a good one too, with all sorts of steps and references to my other jango helmet threads. others can attest to my understanding of the jango helmet that the advise that i had written would have been incredibly helpful. so i'm going to reserve this spot for later on to help you make your bucket all pretty!
 
That happened to me before when I was writing that last post, very nearly didnt bother to re type it.
Thanks for reply, look forward to the rewrite.
 
AARRGGHHH................just went to put on my first clear coat and started on the RF.............shook can for over a minute, sprayed on test bit of plastic all looked good. As soon as started on the RF I could see it was not right................not going on evenly looks like someone has just splatted it on by flicking a tooth brush if you know what I mean!!! Gonna have to let it dry, sand it off and start again.
 
Just a tip make shore your not spraying enamet over acrylic lacquer or even mixing brands canbe damaging if your not familior with the paints you should test spray on some thing like a bucket or something with a similer surface texture or even give the silver coat a light rub with 1200 grad wet dry aprasive paper best results when wet. good luck hope this helps
 
Hi thanks for reply.
All paints were the same brand, i'm thinking its actually something to do with the nozzle.
 
Right i was half asleep when i rote that didnt read your post properly yeah that would be dry paint around the nozzle dont know were your from but if you can get to a graffiti shop you can get heaps of difrenrt style caps fat thin ultra fine and so on you could always just swope the nozzle on the deffective tin for one of the other ones
 
Thanks dude, graffiti shop round here, not a chance lol, we still frown on graffiti here in North East England lol.
 
you can alway take your nozzle off and leave the in paint thinner over night or just hold on to old nozzle for when problems like this arise
 
Thanks guys, gonna try sort the nozzle and if not get a different can. Need to go and get myself some masking fluid too and then think about my weathering and paint scheme.
 
ok here i go with a brief tutorial on how to paint a helmet. now only about 15% of the time spent painting a helmet is going to be actually painting the helmet. the majority of the time is all about prepping the helmet for paint. with the rubies jango one piece, a few things to do before you get started. carefully pry off the right ear cap, it's glued on there pretty well so to keep it in one piece slowly work around it with a small screwdriver or probe, prying a little bit at a time. next find a metal or wooden craft ring to mount inside the helmet to help it hold it's shape and rigidity (you can find one at most craft stores, though i don't remember the size you're going to need). i used hotglue to hold the last one in place. once you're got that taken care of you can begin prepping the surface for paint. first strip the old paint off as best as you can, you can start with 120 grit and a mouse sander, then go to 220 grit again with the mouse. after that you're off to hand sanding. 400 grit and wet-sanding should be your next stop, and make sure you get as much of the toothmarks from the mouse sander as you can. then wet-sand it again with 800 grit.

now you're ready for primer (a good primer makes the world of difference between a good helmet and a great helmet), don't skimp on your primer, use the best spray primer you can get. 2-3 light coats the let it dry real good and wet-sand it with 800 grit. put another 2 coats of primer down and this time wet-sand lightly with 1000 grit. and if you're feeling particularly OCD, put another really light layer of primer on and wet-sand with 1200 or even 1500 grit.

from here you have a surface that is ready to paint. if you're painting it up like jango i don't suggest using spray paint. i would recommend rub'n'buff (Rub-N-Buff Finish - MANY COLORS : craft paints : decorative painting : crafts : Shop | Joann.com the stuff called silver leaf). here's a good tutorial on how to rub'n'buff, YouTube - How to make armor with Sintra, Rub & Buff, and weathering it's kinda long, but i think it was uploaded by another member here, seeker. you can skip towards the end to get to the part about r'n'b. after you get that taken care of, set the whole thing aside for a couple days to let the r'n'b really set up and harden. because after that it's time to...

start masking!!! use a low tack painters tape, the blue or purple stuff preferably. then to reduce the tackiness even more stick it to your pants leg a couple times. mask off all the sections that you want staying silver, i.e. the dome, the lower cheeks, and the back. prime the rest of the visible area again and sand with 1000 grit. now you are ready to finally put paint on.

i like to start with the lighter blue, even though it covers more area than the dark blue, it's not as tricky to tape off later. 2-4 light coats are all it should take depending on coverage. now set it aside for the night, and come back tomorrow to do more masking. mask off the visor, mandibles, the head band, and around the ears leaving only the upper cheeks and ears exposed. again, 2-4 light *light* coats with the darker blue until you're satisfied with the coverage. unmask the previous layer of blue and clear coat just that if you'd like. clear coating r'n'b is a disaster.

unmask the entire thing, give the silver another buff if it needs it, then feel free to weather. there are plenty of great weathering tutorials out there, much better than one i could give.

hope that helps.

Mike
 
Thats great thanks a million, the plan is to go red and black with some battle damage but your method would still stand.
 
@saint_nasty - So I'm a bit unfamiliar with painting, but I just heard from another forum member that paint won't work over Rub'n'Buff. I'm aiming for a Boba costume, and I thought the Rub'n'Buff would look really nifty shining through chips and scratches in the paint as battle damage, but was informed paint won't stick to it. Are you suggesting I can Rub'n'Buff the helmet, then primer over it, sand smooth, and paint more? Then, weathering and damaging the paint, leaving the Rub'n'Buff shining through?

I just wanted clarification on this.

Thanks!

[EDIT]
And Adoo, I'm sorry to hijack your thread with this question.
[/EDIT]
 
So it sticks nicely, no peeling or bubbling and such? And does it add to the authentic look of the battle damage, or is it not worth the trouble?
 
@Dash_Merc yep that's pretty much what i'm saying. that's why you let it set up for a few days first.
 
I like the look of it, but I will qualify that I painted over the RnB several months after the RnB was applied. It was very dry. But no I didn't have any peeling or bubbling of the paint. It is going to be important that you really rub the stuff in too. The heat from your hand helps set the wax.

An aluminum color paint might give you just as good of a result if you are just wanting it for battle damage though.

.................and I apologize for the hijack also............
 
Well, I guess this shouldn't count completely as a hijack, because it is still relevant to the topic. It's good beginner information (I'm a beginner), and the Jango helmet would also be having RnB beneath the blue paints.

That said, thank you Adoo for allowing me to clutter your thread with my question. I have learned much here, and I intend to follow this thread.

Thank you saint_nasty and Mullreel for sounding off as well, your confirmations of my hopes and dreams is very reassuring. One day I will use this knowledge to conquer...my...Boba Fett costume. <_< >_>
 
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