What's in the box? Pulce 40

First pull from the mold is complete. What do you think?
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I am pleased with my first one. I figured I would possibly need to make a few air vents, and I was correct. I did get an air pocket in the trigger and part of the trigger guard, I will fix the mold to prevent this on pull two. Pouring one first helped me to find these areas so I know exactly where to put the vents and not make any that are unnecessary.

This is a project of mine I have thought about for a while. My main intention is to make a more durable version, something I could hand a child and not be as worried about. I don't even like letting my friends play around with my Mojo Sidearm. I love it and would hate to damage it. And as for my real Pulce 40, that is my favorite item in my collection. So I decided to try a one piece cast. I used a softer resin. When it is completely dry it is firm, but it does have the slightest flex to it. I am also now considering doing another mold with the barrel separate. Then for the barrel use an aluminum resin to give it a metal look.

Any thoughts are appreciated.
 
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That's definitely NOT a condom.

But seriously, very nice I'd love one of these one day. Is that straight fiberglass resin?
 
It is smooth cast 45D semi rigid resin plastic. I have enough material to do maybe 5 more. I am going to the shop tomorrow and look at some more materials. I just finished adding some air vents to the mold so my next pull should be even better. I am gonna try to do it tonight. Quite a time consuming project this has become.
 
Well I just pulled the second cast, and the air vents worked perfectly. It has a couple small bubbles, but nothing that can't easily be filled in. I am very pleased. The entire trigger filled up without bubbles and the trigger guard area turned out good as well.
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I was upset when I saw the line between the frame and the back tube part of the gun just above the trigger area. In the pic this thin white line looks jagged. but it is the detail of the thin gap between the two parts giving the illusion that it is a tube inside a frame, like it is two parts. The actual line is very clean, so no clean up needed. Once you paint that part you wont see the interior of that space and this thin gap will make it easier to mask up when it is painted.
That's all for tonight. More work tomorrow...
 
DUDE. HOW MUCH im so keen
Why dont you just cold cast in that mold as the handl will ber painted any way i dont thinlk it is nessasary to make another mold
 
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Here is a pic of how I did the tip. I filled in the slot area but made it thin enough so it should be easy to remove this material and have the area be hollow. I am going to paint the tip of the first pull as an experiment to see if I will cut this area out or just paint it black. The slot is recessed in about 1/4 inch so there is depth to it. Any thoughts?
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Thank for the kind words. I will be test painting pretty soon, but I am going to the shop today to discuss materials, paint, etc. More to come soon.
 
Id say paint flat black in there and leave it for strength like u said this is to let other people handle it...better safe then sorry right? Looks great the side arm is on of those little things that would be cool to have even without having an ESB Fett
 
I just got some stuff to try out. There are two methods of application. One you put the powder directly on the mold in the area that you want to be metal, then pour resin and it will effectively cover those areas only. The other method is adding it directly to the resin before you pour, but I would probably need to use a different resin with no color, but then it won't have the elasticity like the material I have now. The metal color may not show as well because this material is dark brown, so the color will be less noticeable. If I use the harder, but clear resin, the whole piece will look metal, and then you just paint the handle/body area. I will have to experiment so we can see some different results.
 
I just pulled the next one. It came out great. I still have a few small bubbles, but they can easily be filled in. Here is a pic to see the side and a closer view from under the trigger looking up to see the gap in between the trigger guard. The seam on the mold is great and the clean up is very minimal. The flaky stuff around the trigger is wafer thin and cuts off easily
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Using the method of putting the powder in the mold and not in the resin isnt worth your time ,
what i do is mix both dust the mold with ali powder and mix up a CC batch (make sure you mix the powder in to part A before mixing the 2 parts it may sound odvious but it does hapen) they say 2 parts Ali to 1 paqrt 50 -50 mix waight ratio but i think 1.5 parts to 1 part 50 - 50 mix is a better result and stronger ,
,shore i dont need to tell u this but ijust in case , as some people rush in with out the facts and can waist alot of prod , me for instance
 
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