Customizing a Rubies Jango Helmet

bobafett669

Active Hunter

• Jun 23, 2004

• #1

I am going the cheeper route my first time around so I am working on a cheep Rubies helmet. I cut out the keyslots and the visor so far.

I will update with my progress in case anyone wants to go the budget route in the future. Any assistance or advise is appreciated. I have already removed the rangefinder with a blow dryer and an exacto knife. My next step will be to spray it down with Rustoleum Plastic Primer and spray it silver.

 

bobafett669

Active Hunter

• Jun 28, 2004

• #2

Next Step: Rustoleum Plastic Primer:

Then: Rustoleum Metalic Silver, sand and apply second coat.

 

jangofett76

Active Hunter

• Jun 28, 2004

• #3

Hi bobafett669. I'm also going the cheaper route too. How did you cut your keyholes and visor out? Thanks. Also, what t-visor are you going to replace on the Rubies helmet? Thanks again.

Please keep me informed.

 

bobafett669

Active Hunter

• Jun 28, 2004

• #4

I cut them out with a very tiny exacto type knife I found at a craft store. A regular exacto knife blade was to flexable and hard to work with without cutting yourself. I cut the visor with that knife and one of the exacto knives that have sections of the blade you can breakoff to get to a new blade. I can post a pic of what I used next round. Not sure which visor to use yet. Some Tell me to get one from RA but they are $25.00.

I also used the sander on my dremel to file off the Rubies lettering on the back.

 

Jango Wes

Well-Known Hunter

• Jun 28, 2004

• #5

For the visor, look up "welding supply" in the yellow pages. Call em up and ask if they have the green welding visors (they should), that's the route I went with my Jango and Brandy's Fett Girl. There is also a guy on ebay who sells the hard plexiglass ones for like $10. Just do a search on fett visor.

Wes

 

bh7603

Active Hunter

• Jun 28, 2004

• #6

hey i bought a welding visor shade #5 i think....i belive you "should" get a #3...not sure...anyway it cost me 7 bucks! local welding/firematics store

 

bobafett669

Active Hunter

• Jun 29, 2004

• #7

Can these welder's masks be shaped easily?

 

Foxbatkllr

Well-Known Hunter

• Jun 29, 2004

• #8

They're already curved for your mask...no shaping needed. they can be cut with scissors.

 

ShocKWavE

Well-Known Hunter

• Jun 29, 2004

• #9

Looks great. One suggestion I would have is to stear clear of the "metallic" paints. Maybe yours worked out, but I tried about 3 different types with pretty bad results. If you do use it, don't touch it for quite some time. I am still a dull alum/rub n buff type.

 

Fett4u

Active Hunter

• Jun 30, 2004

• #10

I second what Shockwave said, the Metallic silver paints IMO look too fake, the aluminum paints look more realistic and less " shiney ".

 

bobafett669

Active Hunter

• Jul 6, 2004

• #11

OK here's where I am at now:

Looks pretty good for a Rubies hemet I think. I have some cleaning up to do where the tape marks did not exactly give me a rounded cheek. I have also installed Wire MEsh over the keyholes on back. I am now looking for a visor and already have the Ruff and Buff. I tested it on some silver sintra first to see if I liked it. I put it on with my fingers and started rubbing it off with tissues. This stuff is kind of like shoe polish. How do I keep the RNB from getting on the Blue sections once I start to do the helmet?

 

Star Wars Chick

Sr Hunter

• Jul 6, 2004

• #12

Tape them off.

 

Q

QuiGon Ludo

Hunter

• Jul 6, 2004

• #13

If you get RNB on the blue parts, use dishwater soap and water to remove it, works really good.

 

T Visor

Active Hunter

• Jul 7, 2004

• #14

bobafett669 wrote:
OK here's where I am at now:

Click to expand...

The squint area looks very wide. Also changed?

 

bobafett669

Active Hunter

• Jul 7, 2004

• #15

T-Visor wrote:

bobafett669 wrote:
OK here's where I am at now:

Click to expand...

The squint area looks very wide. Also changed?

Click to expand...

What is "squint area"?

 

T Visor

Active Hunter

• Jul 8, 2004

• #16

With "squint area", I mean the upper part of the visor. Looks definitely broader than normal, but maybe it's just me.

 

bobafett669

Active Hunter

• Jul 8, 2004

• #17

I have not installed a visor yet so the mask "flexes" when on the stand. I need to get a visor and then it might look a little better.

 

Slade

Active Hunter

• Jul 8, 2004

• #18

Cool i am using the same idea too i am still waiting thou i didn't get the helmet yet but i'm going to do sort of what u did once it is done i'll make it Green and the cheeks of the helmet will be black. I will have a thread up soon after about my helmet idea and help could be used.

 

T

thunderbolt885

Guest

• Jul 9, 2004

• #19

lookin good bobafett, lookin good. i cant get my lettering to go away though!its a dp 96 and its filled and sanded smooth, you cant feel the lettering but with R n B it shows up some how, i dont know what to do !

 

bobafett669

Active Hunter

• Jul 11, 2004

• #20

Ok, This is where i am at now. I have repainted the cheek areas as I missed the second coat. I taped off each silver area and applied 2 coats of RNB and It looks very good. The photos really don't do it justice. I would like to start weathering and I have the acrylic paint but I am not sure how much to water it down. i bought a natural sponge at Michael's I am going to try. How does everyone apply the black paint for weathering?