Visor installation?
- Thread starter SEEKER
- Start date
WhiteShadow
Active Hunter
a good way to hold the cardboard mock up in place while you line things up is to use some of that wall putty that 3M puts out for putting posters on walls without leaving marks. also, if you end up using epoxy putty to place your visor, the putty will help with the best areas to apply that as well
WhiteShadow
Active Hunter
chicago screws are working great...and the improvement on the visor has corrected almost all of the warping I was running in to
Timmer
Active Hunter
When I place my visor in for a test fit, the outside parts of the "T" doesn't bend far enough to meet the helmet. I was thinking of using a heat gun, or maybe even a hair dryer ( to be a little less intense ) to warm up the visor and let it fit naturally into a better shape. Is this a horrible idea ? I could just chicago screw i tin , but I'm worried about the flexibility of the visor. I bought it from T-Visor.
Any tips ?
Thanks
Any tips ?
Thanks
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First, how much does the visor still need to curve to match the shape of the helmet?
Second, how much flex does the visor have? ( so long as your visor isn't made of acrylic, it should be fairly flexible )
If your visor has plenty of flex, and it is only maybe a centimeter or two off of the contour of the helmet, then leave it be. Once you have the chicago screws glued in, all you have to do is gently flex the temples of the visor to fit it in. The added pressure of the visor pushing outwards against the helmet will help to hold it in place.
Second, how much flex does the visor have? ( so long as your visor isn't made of acrylic, it should be fairly flexible )
If your visor has plenty of flex, and it is only maybe a centimeter or two off of the contour of the helmet, then leave it be. Once you have the chicago screws glued in, all you have to do is gently flex the temples of the visor to fit it in. The added pressure of the visor pushing outwards against the helmet will help to hold it in place.
I put holes into the actual visor, just make sure that you factor in enough play to allow for easy installation. The only spot that the screws only grip the sides is at the bottom of the mandibles. For that, I made a small half circle notch for the screws to sit in.
As for the inside fittings, the two most popular methods are...
1. Custom cut foam
2. Hardhat liner
As for the inside fittings, the two most popular methods are...
1. Custom cut foam
2. Hardhat liner
These methods are great. I would never of thought to use screws/bolts to hold the visor in place. I would of gone all slap dash and used industrial webbing like I did with my 1st TK lid.
Is there anywhere in the UK where I could source a visor for my ESB bucket? Ive looked on Ebay but can only find places in the US which will incour heavy postal charges if not import and exise charges at UK customs.
Thanks, Mike.
Is there anywhere in the UK where I could source a visor for my ESB bucket? Ive looked on Ebay but can only find places in the US which will incour heavy postal charges if not import and exise charges at UK customs.
Thanks, Mike.
xcmike1056
New Hunter
ok i have no idea what material to use for my visor. can somebody help me? a link to a site wud be great
Jaiden
Active Hunter
T-Visor.com is the premier place to get visors. But, you could get a tinted face shield from just about any hardware store and cut it to fit.
David.
David.
timothyfire
New Hunter
I'm wondering about everyone who used the chicago bolts... how do you keep the large end from showing on the outside? I haven't actually gotten my helmet yet... Sgt. Fang is shipping it out to me this upcoming week so I haven't examined the problem first hand. I'm in the planning stage right now and the idea seems sound, but it also seems that (without having seen the setup first hand) the large round end of the bolt would be visible. How was this solved?
Pardon the newbie question but this is my first attempt at a costume and I don't feel like messing up is much of an option for me.
Thanks in advance everyone.
Pardon the newbie question but this is my first attempt at a costume and I don't feel like messing up is much of an option for me.
Thanks in advance everyone.
Timmer
Active Hunter
There won't actually be any parts on the outside of the helmet. The "nut" part of the Chicago or T-screw is attached to the inside of the helmet, and then the visor ( with the holes for the nut ) slides over that, then possibbly a washer, and then the bolt part. The visor material should be sufficiently dark enough to keep anyone from seeing in.
The Chicago screw nuts DO NOT go through a hole in the actual helmet outside to inside, if that's what you might be picturing. Check back earlier in this thread for diagrams.
Hope that helps.
The Chicago screw nuts DO NOT go through a hole in the actual helmet outside to inside, if that's what you might be picturing. Check back earlier in this thread for diagrams.
Hope that helps.
Timmer has set you on the right path. I epoxied my bolts to the inside, one side benefit of this is that there will now be a small gap between the visor and the helmet that's just big enough to allow some air to vent around and help to prevent fogging.
It's not perfect at stopping fogging, but it does help... and don't worry, the gap isn't big enough to notice.
It's not perfect at stopping fogging, but it does help... and don't worry, the gap isn't big enough to notice.
Timmer
Active Hunter
I had a thought about that, I don't remember where I posted it though.
The idea was this; If someone were to screen print an image of the calc. piece on a bit of material similar to speaker cloth, ( for breathability ) you could have ventilation and some accuracy. As for fans, when I install mine, there will be at least one drawing air in, and one blowing it out, preferably, the blower type of fan. The CPU type mounted inside may be ok, but my opinion is that they are just recirculating the stale air.
The idea was this; If someone were to screen print an image of the calc. piece on a bit of material similar to speaker cloth, ( for breathability ) you could have ventilation and some accuracy. As for fans, when I install mine, there will be at least one drawing air in, and one blowing it out, preferably, the blower type of fan. The CPU type mounted inside may be ok, but my opinion is that they are just recirculating the stale air.
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