Terminal Fettler (and FP) light kit

UPDATE
I started playing around a little bit with my parts and it looks like the stalks and the micro switch will not fit on the GMH ears without some slight modifications. Since the GMH is smaller, the stalk and switch are a little big, but some sanding can fix it.
Hopefully I will start the mockup for the TF topper in a couple of weeks, so once its ready, I will post some pics and vids of it. The FP topper is different enough to require changing the circuit board a bit, so I will need to change the drawing and have a new board built, which will take some time.
Now all of the development and research with this has been done with parts from FP and TF (thanks again guys :)), so I don't know how these kits will work with the aluminum ears that Mojo and Darkside sell. Eventually I am hoping to get some sets of those, so just keep in mind that Im not sure how well everything will go together with their parts, but im sure some sanding or dremeling could fix any issues.
 
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Here is the vid of the mock up. Keep in mind that I had to modify some of the pieces to get it to work because I didn't have all of the hardware that I needed to use the pieces that i had without changing them to get them to fit. The final kit will come with the hardware to mount the switch, but I have to see what will work best. Also keep in mind that I will do my best to make the kit easy to install (no soldering), but there will be modifications to pieces like the stalk, the topper, and the helmet itself to get it installed in the helmet. And this kit will require a hollow stalk, and if the GMH ear piece is being used, it will need modifying because its actually smaller than the regular ear piece (the micro switch is a bit too big for the cut out in the GMH ear piece). The hardest part of building the kit is getting the wire through the stalk, so be prepared to spend some time doing this when the kit is purchased. Im going to try a smaller gauge wire which would be easier to fit through the stalk, but the wire connectors may not work with the smaller wire.
When I do start selling them here is what I am planning to include in the kit:
A finished board with the GOWs already soldered to it, enough wire to connect everything together, a 9v holder with a switch on it, the honeywell switch and the hardware to mount it, wire connectors, and some instructions. If there is anything else that I think needs to be included to ease installation, I will include it.

Let me know what you think and if there is actually enough interest to make these things because some of the parts are a little pricey. I will do my best to keep this under $100, so hopefully this is a good price point for everyone.
 
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Ok guys, I am really close to starting a sales thread for the TF kit. I finished writing up the instructions tonight, all I need to do is put a few pics in it and it's finished. I tried to make it easy to understand, but if there are problems with it once I start selling the kits, let me know and I will make the needed changes. I apologize for dragging this thing along, but with the hip surgery and my wife breaking her leg 4 days after my surgery, I've been a bit preoccupied.
The FP board is getting close to being finished, and once it is, I will be ready to order some of those and sell that kit as well. The only difference between the two will be the light board itself, the installation and wire connection steps will be the same.
And once these are rolling, I will start working on a remote servo kit and the beacon kit too, but hopefully these won't take too long to design.
If anybody has some ideas for more electronics for the fett suit (or maybe even the EE-3), let me know, I may be able to come up wih something.
Thanks for your patience, and hopefully this thing will be worth the wait.
JC
 
As mentioned in a PM, I think it would be awesome to have some left gauntlet electronics for a flamethrower and that other mysterious red led :) Anyone else interested in this?

Now that you mention the EE-3...that sounds pretty sweet as well.

Sending good vibes your way man. Hope you're doing well.
 
Death proof, I did it myself in one quick trip to radio shack. Momentary switches (normally open), a couple red LEDs and resistors, and one 12v led that will suffice for the upper one (with a 120v LED lens I found similar to the original. Throw in a 9 volt and some wire/solder and you are good. I can make a parts list and show you mine as soon as the paint is done!
 
You're working on a remote servo kit? Very interesting! I'd love to have a microservo for my rangefinder stalk but since the helmet will primarily be for display, I can't figure where to put the switch unless I just stick it inside, which might be awkward for someone who might want to put the helmet on! I guess I could purchase gauntlets to go with the display but I had not really planned to do that.
 
Death proof, I did it myself in one quick trip to radio shack. Momentary switches (normally open), a couple red LEDs and resistors, and one 12v led that will suffice for the upper one (with a 120v LED lens I found similar to the original. Throw in a 9 volt and some wire/solder and you are good. I can make a parts list and show you mine as soon as the paint is done!

I honestly have no experience working with electronics - hence me relying on the pros. I also don't have any soldering tools. I think in terms of collecting all the materials just to make it plus the time it would take me to figure it out would amount to what JC would probably ask for :)

I feel so helpless for projects like these that involve so much craftsmanship that I don't possess. I'm hoping my painting skills compensate my lack of knowledge in other areas :)

Saying that, I'm always willing to learn. If you have a way of explaining it I'd appreciate it!
 
Death proof, I used an online LED/resistor calculator to figure the correct resistor. I will post which LEDs and resistors I used for the flamethrowers tomorrow. I then wired it from the battery positive (9v) to one of the momentary switches (button on the flamethrower, then the resistor, and then the LED. After that I did a negative from the LED to the battery. I did that for both flamethrower nozzles. Solder stuff is fairly inexpensive and easy to use, just don't forget to flux the wires before soldering. I wired the led on top with no switch so it's on anytime the battery is connected.

As I said, I will post the LEDs, resistors, and switches tomorrow. I am no electrician and I figured it out in a couple of days with no experience (save the web), and with my list of parts you can do it too without the trial and error :)
 
I love this, however I'm looking for a screen accurate chip. can someone point me in the direction of a place I could get a working chip?
 
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