Superjedi's SgtFang helmet

Looks awesome. I was sure tempted to get one of these helmets to do a Boba. Wish I had a bit more spare change laying around.
 
PROGRESS--Oct 6th:
Whew! So it begins. . . the tracing/mapping/transferring portion. Lots of detail to do for the damage. I started on the keyhole rectangle on the back, and I'm moving around the "hatband" toward the ear areas.
For this damage, I'm using my Floquil Bright Silver, Polly S Lark Dark Gray, and Polly S PRR Maroon for the darker reddish areas.
This is where I really have to make myself go slowly and check my references often! :)

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Thanks again for everyone who's sticking with my progress. (y)
More to come over the weekend!
 
Thanks for posting the link to Batninja's thread, it was very helpful, as is this one. Both have really answered many questions about how a professional weathering job looks like. And after comparing my weathering techniques with those I've seen here, I'm gonna have to start from scratch all over again I think. For a time I even thought about going for the unscathed, non-weathered kit but now I'm not so sure. I'll have to see if I can recreate a similar effect as you've done with this particular helmet. Minesa custom Mandalorian anyway so at least I don't have to worry about making sure every scratch and blemish is recreated on their helmet to mimic the movie models. I'd never be able to pull that off I don't think...Thanks again!

 
Dha Syntir, glad I can be of some help! The key to this is patience. Work in small sections at a time, and don't expect it to be a "weekend project," cuz it definitely takes some time!

PROGRESS--Oct 7th:
Ow! My back. . . :p
I've continued on, adding more damage to the Boxcar Red areas. I've pretty much completed most of the main areas on the back, and have started sneaking around onto the left mandible. :)
Technique is same as described previously. I'm saving the right mand for last, cuz it has the most detail.

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*sigh*. . . more of the same tomorrow. (y)
 
Dude, this is awesome! I can't believe you're getting it done this fast. I took over a month to get this far. Keep up the great work! :cheers
 
Are you spraying the Floquil bright silver with a stencil or using a brush? I have never been able to brush paint Floquil enamels because they dry so fast and was wondering how you are achieving such a smooth finish with them without any brush strokes?
 
Cripes, I've had my new Sarge Bucket for about 3 weeks now and I'm not even done with the cutting/bondo/sanding prep yet! This thread has been an inspiration, man!
 
I don't know how you do it but Holy Cow! You are not human,you are just flying through like nothing.I gotta give up to your work its great.:eek:
 
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Geez, thanks all! :eek: When I get into a project, I tend to lose track of how much time I'm spending on it. A lot of times, I'll just go until I realize I'm starving, or my wife kicks me off the computer! :lol:

Are you spraying the Floquil bright silver with a stencil or using a brush? I have never been able to brush paint Floquil enamels because they dry so fast and was wondering how you are achieving such a smooth finish with them without any brush strokes?

SD, I'm brush painting the silver. You're right, it does dry pretty fast, but when I'm painting a section where I have to dip my brush more than once, I try to "feather" the edge. Then when I add more paint, it's easier to blend the areas together. Also, once I put on the first coat, I'll go back over it with more of a stippling action, and that helps to disguise any brush strokes as well.

PROGRESS--Oct 8th:
OK, something a little different as far as pics go. I wanted to show a section of the helmet, and how it progresses as I add the different colors.
I'll show the right mandible, seeing how I needed a break between each color! :lol:
First is the Floquil Bright Silver. I traced the damage areas, then painted them in. I try to leave any small chips within the larger areas unpainted. It gives me a much better visual on where to line up the next color.

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While the silver is drying, I trace out my next color application. In this case, Polly S Lark Dark Gray, just as with my last couple of updates. After I lay down the gray, this is what it looks like.

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The third step is to add the darker reddish damage. Again, for this I'm using Polly S PRR Maroon. This was one alteration Rogue Studios made to his famous color list. And it's much easier than mixing a custom color! :) I'll also use this step to go back and touch up any silver that got covered over, or needs to be reshaped due to painting the other 2 colors. Here's the mandible with the maroon added.

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*Whew!!* Lots of work for a small section of the bucket. This represents probably around 4 hours of work.
Hope everyone's enjoying the tutorial! :)
 
PROGRESS--Oct 9th:
OK, the face is pretty much done. I still have to go back with my sharp little implement of destruction (compass) and put in the really fine scratches, but the painting is finished. (y)
For the gray on the lower cheeks, I darkened up the Lark Dark Gray using some PRR Brunswick Green. The Lark by itself just kind of blends into the Panzerolivgrun. There's not enough contrast. I just added a few drops at a time until it provided enough of a difference to see. (This isn't my idea. . . I can't remember who recommended it. I thought it was Rogue Studios in his color thread, but I can't find the reference for it. Nevertheless, it works great! :))

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Next up is starting the damage on the dome! (y)
 
Good thing I never did a Boba helmet, cause the painting to too difficult for me. Good thing I stuck to the simplicity of Jango's pait job, despite the rub and buff.

-tubachris
 
That paint job is stellar. Thanks for the mini tutorial on the silver also.
Now I need to get a move on....thanks for the motivation (y)

-Tim-
 
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